Thanks for the interest guys.
To answer a few queistions:
What does this do / what is it for?
- I'm not sure if CACO has the same issues as other forums where "clamping" an amp for power output is always scrutinized, but....
To be properly done using a VOM and Amp clamp then you have to use a resitor to load the amp down and not a speaker. This is because since a speaker is reactive the load presented to the amp changes as the speaker moves. The resistors present a constant load to the amp thus the measurement is accurate. Simply put, if you "clamp" an amp with speaker on it the power measurement you get is not accurate, PERIOD.
What value resistors are you using?
I used eight 100 watt 8 ohm resistors with a 5% tolerance.
I will be able to test the following.
8 channel mode
-- 8 x 100 watts @ 8 ohms
4 channel mode
-- 4 x 200 watts @ 4 ohms
-- 4 x 200 watts @ 16 ohms
2 channel mode
-- 2 x 400 watts @ 2 ohms
-- 2 x 400 watts @ 8 ohms
1 channel mode
-- 1 x 800 watts @ 1 ohms
-- 1 x 800 watts @ 4 ohms
Could you flip the plexi, heat issues?
When I started the build I underestimated the possible heat issues that's why I used the plexi. The resitors are too tall to flip the board so that was not an option. Attaching to the heat sing would mean drilling and tapping it, not the route I wanted to go. What I should have done was used a piece metal as the board in order to draw the heat away from the resistors and transfer to the sink. The plexi board turned out so good I didnt wantto mess with it and found another way to cool it. Pics to come.
FYI, as you look at the board from top to bottom the gauges are Cyberdyne Volt, Volt, Temp and teh last is an amperage gauge.
This is a low amp board designed for my old school gear.
here are the rest of teh tools needed to properly "clamp"