sooo this WAS going to go to DIYMA.com's forum, but the dropped the ball, made it too complicated, and I lost interest. Anyway... on with the show.
I understand I am a noob, and it's my first post... I am not 'new' to the world of Car Audio by any means, although there are some aspects that I am JUST now learning. So please bear with me and have patience.
First of all, I am not exactly sure where to post this, as it is both an inquiry & the early stages to a complete build. I have posted some details about this to other, much smaller forums and have gotten some really great feedback in regards to design implementation and how to put this all together.
I am not yet to the level of Front, Rear, & Sub "Stage". I am, however learning very quickly how to go about building enclosures with accuracy in design. The purpose of this thread, post, and article is to gain insight and hopefully learn something new. Maybe even correct a few bugs, if I have any.
So, to begin.
I'm building a ported enclosure to house two Alpine SWX 1042D (10" Type X dual 4's). I have two Elemental Designs nine.1's to throw on them. I may, or may not use both. I ran these subs in a very small and leaky sealed enclosure on just one of these Nine.1's. And then later on a sony 600w 4channel as a last resort after my nine.1 suffered a failure (the binding posts on the enclosure are side mounted, and my jumper cables came into contact with them), I believe it to be a dead/shorted output transistor. I have spoken with ED and will have the amps repaired (one of the two went into protect mode from the get-go).
With that said, with only one Nine.1 on both subs, wired to 2 ohms, the power and sound was incredible, even through an outdated Sony deck. The front seats of my '91 Lincoln vibrated like massage-chairs. Hands down, the best free audio equipment I have ever owned (yes, I got everything for free as a gift).
Okay, back to the point. The Town Car was wrecked, and I'm now putting my 1991 (fullsize) Bronco back on the road. I want the alpines in the truck, it's that simple. But, then again... not so much.
Of course, first inclinations are to just throw these beauty's into a ported or sealed off-the-shelf box. Which is cool for your average Joe, with average off-the-shelf equipment. ... I don't consider myself an average Joe, at all.
I noticed there were some issues to consider here, as follows:
• My bronco is old, it has NO sound dampening insulation, and was used as a "mud truck" for many many years.
• The tail gate rattles like nobody's effin' business due to loose/bad latch connections and poor weather stripping. (You can hear the rattles just driving down the road)
• A bronco is for all purposes an SUV, with a LARGE cargo area to give lots of 'boomy-ness' in regards to bass
• I wanted consistent and accurate bass, with and without the top on the truck
So, with all of that being said, I have decided to construct a down-firing ported enclosure. This should give accurate bass reflex (is that the correct term to use here) with or without the topper. I believe, in theory, that with the subs pushing air towards the bottom of the cargo area, I will have plenty of felt/heard bass without the topper on the truck, as I frequently enjoy driving around without it for that open-air experience. (This is the entire point in a nutshell, folks)
I tried to create the enclosure as close to alpine's factory specs as possible. Since I am building the type of enclosure I am, I have decided that my truck will need quite a few modifications.
So I have also decided to:
• replace all the rattling components of the tail gate (these are steel rods that allow the gate's interior mounted handle to open the latches), and insulate them with rubber hose, as the rods are about 1/8” in diamter
• apply a thick coating of eDead v3 to all the metal body panels of the truck's cargo area
• replace the topper's window area weather tripping
• place eDead V4 through out tailgate, door panels, and the top of the quarters (where the topper mounts)
• may/may not apply eDead V4 to the bottom end of the rear window. I know that I will be doing some work to the track system to try and insulate/reinforce some of the internal components of the tailgate's window & latch system.
These additions, modifications, repairs, and renovations to the truck should stop the rattles dead in their tracks, or at least I'm hoping so...
Using WinISD and the advise given to me by other forum members in discussion about this project, I have settled on Alpine's original port volume prescribed for this series woofer, 11"x1"x22". I believe winISD recommended a slightly longer port to achieve the 30hz tune. Now, you must be wondering why I am trying so hard to achieve 30hz.... Well that's a good question. Before 3-4 months ago, I was totally ignorant in regards to octives and frequency range, but I have read all over the place, and have heard that 30hz is the "magic number". Alpine's original designs for a ported box ranges between 27hz & 32hz, so it appears that I am "in the right direction". I don't know how much more tehcnical I can get in regards to this build. After putting all of that on the table, I believe it's easy to understand the direction I am taking with this.
Please understand that I am not asking for input in regards to component speakers, wiring kits, cross overs, amplifiers, alternators, batteries, head units or anything else of that nature. Right now, I just want to share the designs & specifications of this enclosure to gain some insight on what I'm working on.
I have gone through MANY variations of design, improving upon them, each and ever time (at least I believe it is an improvement). All the pictures I have are CAD (googlesketchup 8) designs. This is a summer project that I am going to try to tackle in late june, early july.
Due to a 10,000 character limit, my original 13,000+ character post is been split into two parts. The next post contains the other "half" to this one. They were meant to be viewed as one, but ...whatever..