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Old 03-11-2012, 01:35 AM
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Default Downfiring ported SWX1042D box in a Bronco

sooo this WAS going to go to DIYMA.com's forum, but the dropped the ball, made it too complicated, and I lost interest. Anyway... on with the show.


I understand I am a noob, and it's my first post... I am not 'new' to the world of Car Audio by any means, although there are some aspects that I am JUST now learning. So please bear with me and have patience.


First of all, I am not exactly sure where to post this, as it is both an inquiry & the early stages to a complete build. I have posted some details about this to other, much smaller forums and have gotten some really great feedback in regards to design implementation and how to put this all together.


I am not yet to the level of Front, Rear, & Sub "Stage". I am, however learning very quickly how to go about building enclosures with accuracy in design. The purpose of this thread, post, and article is to gain insight and hopefully learn something new. Maybe even correct a few bugs, if I have any.

So, to begin.

I'm building a ported enclosure to house two Alpine SWX 1042D (10" Type X dual 4's). I have two Elemental Designs nine.1's to throw on them. I may, or may not use both. I ran these subs in a very small and leaky sealed enclosure on just one of these Nine.1's. And then later on a sony 600w 4channel as a last resort after my nine.1 suffered a failure (the binding posts on the enclosure are side mounted, and my jumper cables came into contact with them), I believe it to be a dead/shorted output transistor. I have spoken with ED and will have the amps repaired (one of the two went into protect mode from the get-go).

With that said, with only one Nine.1 on both subs, wired to 2 ohms, the power and sound was incredible, even through an outdated Sony deck. The front seats of my '91 Lincoln vibrated like massage-chairs. Hands down, the best free audio equipment I have ever owned (yes, I got everything for free as a gift).


Okay, back to the point. The Town Car was wrecked, and I'm now putting my 1991 (fullsize) Bronco back on the road. I want the alpines in the truck, it's that simple. But, then again... not so much.

Of course, first inclinations are to just throw these beauty's into a ported or sealed off-the-shelf box. Which is cool for your average Joe, with average off-the-shelf equipment. ... I don't consider myself an average Joe, at all.



I noticed there were some issues to consider here, as follows:

• My bronco is old, it has NO sound dampening insulation, and was used as a "mud truck" for many many years.
• The tail gate rattles like nobody's effin' business due to loose/bad latch connections and poor weather stripping. (You can hear the rattles just driving down the road)
• A bronco is for all purposes an SUV, with a LARGE cargo area to give lots of 'boomy-ness' in regards to bass
• I wanted consistent and accurate bass, with and without the top on the truck

So, with all of that being said, I have decided to construct a down-firing ported enclosure. This should give accurate bass reflex (is that the correct term to use here) with or without the topper. I believe, in theory, that with the subs pushing air towards the bottom of the cargo area, I will have plenty of felt/heard bass without the topper on the truck, as I frequently enjoy driving around without it for that open-air experience. (This is the entire point in a nutshell, folks)

I tried to create the enclosure as close to alpine's factory specs as possible. Since I am building the type of enclosure I am, I have decided that my truck will need quite a few modifications.

So I have also decided to:
• replace all the rattling components of the tail gate (these are steel rods that allow the gate's interior mounted handle to open the latches), and insulate them with rubber hose, as the rods are about 1/8” in diamter
• apply a thick coating of eDead v3 to all the metal body panels of the truck's cargo area
• replace the topper's window area weather tripping
• place eDead V4 through out tailgate, door panels, and the top of the quarters (where the topper mounts)
• may/may not apply eDead V4 to the bottom end of the rear window. I know that I will be doing some work to the track system to try and insulate/reinforce some of the internal components of the tailgate's window & latch system.

These additions, modifications, repairs, and renovations to the truck should stop the rattles dead in their tracks, or at least I'm hoping so...

Using WinISD and the advise given to me by other forum members in discussion about this project, I have settled on Alpine's original port volume prescribed for this series woofer, 11"x1"x22". I believe winISD recommended a slightly longer port to achieve the 30hz tune. Now, you must be wondering why I am trying so hard to achieve 30hz.... Well that's a good question. Before 3-4 months ago, I was totally ignorant in regards to octives and frequency range, but I have read all over the place, and have heard that 30hz is the "magic number". Alpine's original designs for a ported box ranges between 27hz & 32hz, so it appears that I am "in the right direction". I don't know how much more tehcnical I can get in regards to this build. After putting all of that on the table, I believe it's easy to understand the direction I am taking with this.

Please understand that I am not asking for input in regards to component speakers, wiring kits, cross overs, amplifiers, alternators, batteries, head units or anything else of that nature. Right now, I just want to share the designs & specifications of this enclosure to gain some insight on what I'm working on.

I have gone through MANY variations of design, improving upon them, each and ever time (at least I believe it is an improvement). All the pictures I have are CAD (googlesketchup 8) designs. This is a summer project that I am going to try to tackle in late june, early july.






Due to a 10,000 character limit, my original 13,000+ character post is been split into two parts. The next post contains the other "half" to this one. They were meant to be viewed as one, but ...whatever..
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  #2  
Old 03-11-2012, 01:35 AM
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In the beginning of my learning adventure and quest to understand "box building", this was the original idea/concept: An elevated, down firing ported enclosure for both drivers. The maximum height available to me without obstructing the view from my rear view mirror is 25" of over all height.



The design changed at least three to four more times before I got the swing of what I was doing... So we'll fast forward and avoid some of my earlier fumbles & mistakes. A more accurate concept appears below, with both chambers divided and separate from one another




After my oversight on thickness of materiel, and a recommendation to allow both chambers to share a port, this is what I came up with.









A slight change to the baffle and a recessed front mounting plate




A conceptual sketch of what it could theoretically look like with finish & trim. Notice the mounting studs in place vs. the concept of using wood screws... (I am still thinking about these mounting studs)




These are images of old/obsolete internal dimensions. These dimensions have changed so many times, I cannot even remember the internal displacement of this sketch...









These are some shots of how many pieces, and dimensions of those pieces in regards to the production of the enclosure itself. You'll notice several other designs in the background of boxes that "never made it". These dimensions are also obsolete, but the design ended up being improved upon, and mostly the same. In these, you will also noticed I have gone back to a divided port and separate chambers for both woofers








Fast forward to today's version. The current port length is 22", still 11"x1", with an internal volume of 1.6 . The alpine woofers displace .162 , the interior volume of the enclosure cavity is exactly 1.6 cubes, 1.5 with the woofer in place. If you're curious as to the design of the port's side-walls, try to understand that it is all made of 3/4" material and the goal is to build/cut everything from ONE sheet of 4'x8' three-quarter MDF. Hence the odd-ball side panels that make the vents so odd.






This is the newest design for the frame that will contain the box. There are a few reasons for this particular design. A, I did not want the subs elevated by pieces of MDF board. B, there is not enough material left after cutting the pieces of the enclosure out a single piece of 4x8 to build "legs" for the enclosure. C, I wanted a 1/8" steel frame to keep the box safe, secure, and to reduce vibration. Before you ask, or wonder how I will do this... I am a carpenter by trade, and have also worked several years as a welder/fabricator. All the steel used for this is easily manufactured with a CNC plasma-cam, sheet metal break, and either a MIG or TIG welder. I may even construct it from stainless just for the sheer "fun" of doing so. Note the current height of the enclosure in the frame at 19.5"




Here are the current outside dimensions of the final product (Unless I change something pending the input of this forum)



And today, I decided to tinker with the idea of an internal baffle. Despite my plans to assemble the box with pre-drilled holes,course/wide thread wood screws, & lots of sealant, I wanted to know what a baffle would be like. Not including the hollow areas of the baffle itself, internal displacement is now 1.32 . I am not sure what kind of change this will give acoustically. The baffle's largest opening is 8" in diameter and offset to match the offset, position, and placement of the woofer coming from the top down.





I think that just about covers everything, from the start to finish of this design. If you see something that you believe may be incorrect or "off" in my final build, or would like exact dimensions, let me know. Other than that, I'm interested in hearing what you have to say about the over all concept.

Last edited by JungleRecon; 03-11-2012 at 05:45 AM.
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Old 03-11-2012, 03:22 AM
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Thats one sexy ass box dawggg!! Tell me how it sounds
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Old 03-11-2012, 03:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J_Decker View Post
Thats one sexy ass box dawggg!! Tell me how it sounds
Thank you, I probably have 100+ hours tied up in just R&D for this. The box is tuned for 30hz at 1.5 including the woofer. According to winISD, I should be able to go well over 100db's with the kind of power just one ED Nine.1 makes and stay between 30 & 33hz.

Either way, I'm not building this for SPL. But rather because I finally have some truly nice equipment and I want to build & assemble it RIGHT.

I would personally be okay with 35-40hz. The real goal is building a box that will not allow the bass to fall 'flat' at certain frequencies. I am not sure if I have achieved that with this box, or if it will be a total failure. I'm hoping I'm on the right track though.

Last edited by JungleRecon; 03-11-2012 at 05:46 AM.
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Old 03-12-2012, 03:01 PM
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Man, this has got to be one of the most well thought-out enclosures I've ever seen. I can tell some real dedication went into this. I get frustrated trying to use the RE box builder to visualize the enclosure I want to build. Awesome job! Can't wait to see how it turns out
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Old 03-12-2012, 06:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seniortiss View Post
Man, this has got to be one of the most well thought-out enclosures I've ever seen. I can tell some real dedication went into this. I get frustrated trying to use the RE box builder to visualize the enclosure I want to build. Awesome job! Can't wait to see how it turns out
Thanks. I'll post up whatever results I have from it once it's built, and in place.

You know Sketchup 8 is free right? The program can take some getting used to, but it's easy to use once you've gotten the swing of it and how to use groups & components . What kind of enclosure are you trying to conceptualize?
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Old 03-13-2012, 01:33 AM
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Is there a reason that you decided to construct the port out of so many pieces rather than just extending the height of the port pieces to touch the bottom and top of the enclosure?
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Old 03-13-2012, 01:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JungleRecon View Post
Thanks. I'll post up whatever results I have from it once it's built, and in place.

You know Sketchup 8 is free right? The program can take some getting used to, but it's easy to use once you've gotten the swing of it and how to use groups & components . What kind of enclosure are you trying to conceptualize?
Yeah my friends keep telling me to use it. I downloaded it a little while ago but never found the time to play around with it.

I'm most likely just going to build a simple L-ported box with some 3/4" MDF and double up on the face. I'm also considering an aeroport. So nothing complicated at all, but I've never built a box before so everything seems more menacing than it'll probably turn out to be.
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Old 03-13-2012, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by 813thumper View Post
Is there a reason that you decided to construct the port out of so many pieces rather than just extending the height of the port pieces to touch the bottom and top of the enclosure?
I don't quite follow? But I think you're making reference to the vent's width of 11"? ...because I have not yet learned how to change the vent dimensions to maintain the same tuning. Although, learning this would greatly help in the design of the enclosure, I have yet to do so. It has also been engineered to use wood from only ONE piece of 4x8. Almost all the cuts are made the way they are for the same reason.

If that isn't what you meant, I do not follow.

As you see here, the L forms are double backed to narrow vent width to exactly 11". They run from the top to the bottom of the enclosure. As well as the center dividing piece. The difference is that divider does just that, divides, from top to face of the vent structure.






If you could elaborate on what you're asking maybe I could give a better answer? You'll have to excuse my ignorance, I'm a carpenter... not necessarily an audio enclosure builder. I'm still learning how to get the swing of this.
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Old 03-13-2012, 01:21 PM
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Ok you answered my question. Try using the Torres Enclosure Calculator. You may like messing around with it even if you don't change your design.

Torres GUI-based box tuning calculator - Midwest Car Audio
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