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Old 05-31-2012, 09:16 PM
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Default OldSchoolRF's Mini Old School Fosgate Build

OldSchoolRF’s Mini Old School Rockford Fosgate Build

Hello everyone and welcome to my mini old school Rockford Fosgate build log. I’m referring to this as my “mini” build because I have a future build in the works that will dwarf this one in comparison. I had a lot of fun with this project and I hope you enjoy reading this log as much as I did making it. Please excuse my constant rants on why I think old school is better and my apparent distain for equipment not built in the USA. I apologize in advance.

I prefer to use old school Fosgate equipment for several reasons. For one, most of their old stuff was built right here in the USA including their amps and subwoofers. Two, all of this stuff is overbuilt and made to last. As you will see most of the components I am using are well over 10 years old and still work great. Lastly, this kind of equipment is what I grew up with and it holds a special place in my heart right alongside the Nintendo NES and the original TMNT cartoons.

I’m hoping that this build will serve as a bit of a history lesson for you younger guys out there and as a reminder to you old guys how things used to be. There was a time when not all amplifiers looked the same, subs didn’t all have the same 12 spoke basket and car audio companies actually built their products here instead of outsourcing everything to China and Korea. There are a few companies out there who still make their products in the USA but they are few and far between. As a community of car audio enthusiasts, I say it’s time we start demanding more from audio companies. With that being said, the next time you go to buy an amp, subs or anything else, please consider supporting a manufacturer that builds them here.

All of the work on this build was done by me. I am not, nor do I claim to be, an expert at any of this. I have never worked for a car audio shop or company, and it probably shows. The methods in this build log come from lots of reading and my personal experiences over the years. I will be glad to answer any questions you may have but follow my advice at your own risk.

Ok, now that I got that out of the way, let’s get to the build. Here is a list of the equipment that was used:

Head Unit: Alpine IVA-W505
Subwoofers: 12” Custom Rockford Fosgate Power HX2 D4s
Amplifiers: Two Rockford Fosgate Power 1500bd with Link and Volt Meter
Enclosure: 4.646 cu. ft Tuned to 34hz
Front Stage: Rockford Fosgate FNX Components
Rear Fill: Rockford Fosgate FRC3369a 6x9s
Front Battery: Super Start AGM
Rear Battery: XS Power XP2500
Signal Processing: Rockford Fosgate BLD Line Driver
RCA Cables: Rockford Fosgate Triple X
Wiring: Fosgate, Kicker HyperFlex
Accessories: Fosgate & Others

Last edited by OldSchoolRF; 05-31-2012 at 10:05 PM.
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Old 05-31-2012, 09:16 PM
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Building The Subwoofers

My first task was to get the subs built. The Power HX2 is my favorite subwoofer of all time followed closely by the 05 RE Audio XXX and the Adire Audio Brahma MKII. For those of you who donít know the Power HX2 features a 4Ē voice coil and is rated at 1000 watts rms. Although, as with everything from this era, was severely underrated. When finished these subs will have no problem handling the two Power 1500bds I will be using to power them.

Here is a list of the parts used to build these subs:

RF Power HX2 Motors
RF Power HX2 Baskets
Original 12Ē Team RF Cones
Original RF Power HX2 Spiders
4Ē Dual 4 Ohm 4 Layer Copper Voice Coils
Original RF Power HX2 Dust Caps
RF Consealer Gaskets

After removing all the old soft parts and detaching the baskets from the motors the first thing I needed to do was clean the spider and surround landings. I prefer using an angle grinder because itís the best way to get all the old glue and debris off. Just be careful not to grind too far into the metal and make it uneven. I like to wear a mask and protective eye wear while grinding because the fumes and flying debris can be quite hazardous.

After cleaning the baskets the next step was to make sure that the voice coil gap on the motor is absolutely clean. I like to use a can of compressed air to blow out any big debris and then use duct tape folded over on itself to get the small stuff out. You want to make absolutely sure that there is nothing in the gap that can damage your voice coil when the sub is being powered.

Now that the gap is clean I needed to reattach the baskets to the motors. Some people just screw the basket right onto the top plate with nothing in between but I prefer to use a gel epoxy to make sure it stays in place. I also like to use a bit of adhesive on the screws as well. The last thing you want is a couple screws coming lose and your basket sliding around.

The next step was to attach the spider to the voice coil former. On overhung coil motors like the Power HX2 you want to make sure that the middle of the voice coil winding lines up in the direct center of the top plate. To make this calculation you need the following measurements and it is imperative that you have a digital caliper for this. Youíll need the distance between the spider landing and bottom of the basket, the thickness of the top plate and the width of the winding on your voice coil. Here are the measurements I used.

(SLBB) Spider Landing to Bottom of Basket: 1.75Ē
(TPT) Top Plate Thickness: .5Ē
(WW) VC Winding Width: 1.893Ē

To get how far up on the coil to attach the spider I took the SLBB of 1.75Ē and added that to half of the TPT which was .25Ē and got 2Ē. Then I added half of the WW which is .9465Ē to give me a total of 2.9465Ē. So by measuring from the bottom of my voice coil up to 2.9465Ē on the former this is where the voice coil needed to be attached which put the middle of the coil directly in the middle of the top plate. To ensure that the spider is flat across the former I always put the coil with the spider on it but not glued into the motor. Then I use my coil shim and make sure the spider is sitting flat on the landing all the way around. After this is done I carefully remove the coil and glue it in place.

The glue I like to use is a super strong cyanoacrylate or CA glue in conjunction with an activator or accelerator. The kind I use is clear but it comes in all different colors and thicknesses. I prefer the clear variety because I just think it makes the finish product look much better. To glue the spider to the former I put a pretty thick bead of the CA glue around the underside and then applied the activator and let it dry. After it was dry to the touch I then did the same to the top side. I always like to use more glue than I feel is really necessary. I think its better to use too much rather than not enough in this case.

After the glue on the spider had completely dried it was time to glue the assembled coil and spider to the landing on the basket. I started by placing the coil into the motor and then placing the voice coil shim in between the coil and pole piece. I prefer to use those flimsy, thin cutting boards as the shim. They are easy to cut to size, are readily available and in most cases are the perfect thickness. I like to put glue on both the underside of the spider and on the spider landing itself because I feel like this creates a better bond between the two. After making sure the spider was seated properly I again sprayed the accelerator to help the glue set.

The next step was to solder the lead wire onto the tabs on the speaker terminals. I just heated the tab until it was hot enough to melt the solder.

After the solder had cooled the next step was to run the lead wires through the cone and make the connection with the lead wires on the coil. Some people prefer to run the lead wires under the voice coil opening of the cone but I prefer to make small holes with a dremel tool for the wires to pass through. After running the lead wires through the cones I twisted them together with the voice coil leads. I prefer to place small copper tubes over the wires before soldering. It has been my experience that using these allows for a much better solder connection between the two wires and is much stronger. After the copper tube is in place, I then heated them up and applied solder all throughout the tube. Then making sure the cone was all the way down around the coil former I added a generous amount of glue and applied activator.

The next step was to glue the surround to the basket. Again, I like to put glue on both the underside of the surround and the basket landing. I like to apply glue from screw hole to screw hole on the basket and then secure the surround to the basket with clamps while it dries. I did this all the way around the basket making sure to use lots of glue.

After giving the glue on the surround plenty of time to fully cure it was time to put the dust cap on. Its at this time I carefully removed the voice coil shim. The original Team RF cones actually have a recessed area that the dust cap fits into perfectly so I did not have to make a mark like you do on some cones. Like before I prefer to put glue on both the lip of the dust cap and the cone itself. Before putting the cap in place I made sure that it was lined up perfectly center. After the cap was down I always put a small weight on it to make sure it stays in place. I prefer to use a roll of duct tape and then place a stack of cds on top of that. Hey, it works for me!

Here we have the finished subs. They both turned out really nice and Iím excited to get a box built and see what they sound like.

Last edited by OldSchoolRF; 05-31-2012 at 09:21 PM.
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Old 05-31-2012, 09:16 PM
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Building The Enclosure

When designing boxes I like to use both WinISD and Bass Box Pro 6. On this box I opted to use aero ports so I also used the Precision Ports calculator. Unfortunately I do not own a woofer tester so I wasnít able to get the exact TSPs for this set of subs but I felt the parameters of the original Power HX2 would be close enough to design off of. After running through many different box designs and comparing the different frequency responses I ended up deciding on a box that had a net interior volume of 4.646 cubic feet after sub, port and bracing displacement. It will be tuned to 34hz using two 4Ē aero ports each being 10.70Ē long and will have an F3 of 28.5hz.

Here is a picture of all the wood cut. The box was built using ĺĒ mdf with a double thick front baffle and internal bracing.

The next step was to get the sides, front, back and bottom walls put together. I prefer to use wood glue where the boards come together and to also use screws. I always predrill all the screw holes and use a countersink bit so the heads of the screws will sit flush.

The next thing to do was get the internal bracing in place. I chose to use 3Ē pieces of mdf along the bottom, back and top panels of the enclosure. These should provide some stability and keep the panels from flexing as bad. These were also glued and screwed into place.

Before putting the top on the enclosure I always like to seal up every internal seam with caulking. This will keep the box sealed up tight and reduce any chance of unwanted air leakage.

The next step was to glue and screw the top panel in place. After this was done I also went over all the external seams and filled in and around the screw heads with caulk. This may seem like a bit of overkill but its something Iíve always done.

After installing the top panel the next thing was to cut out the speaker and port holes into the top layer of the double baffle. I did this by first using a compass to draw the appropriate sized circles then drilling a small pilot hole for my jigsaw blade to pass through.

After cutting the first layer I clamped it to the front panel already on the box, traced the holes and cut the second layer just like the first. Then I glued and screwed the two panels together and caulked the seams between the two. I also cut the holes for the terminal cups.

Iíve never been one to just throw a bare enclosure into my trunk so I went and picked up some nice grey carpet at Home Depot. While I was there I also picked up some 3M Super 77 Spray Adhesive. This is very good stuff and Iíve never had a problem with carpeting coming off while using it.

I started by putting the enclosure top down and lining up the carpet in the middle of the bottom panel. I wanted the seam on the bottom so it wouldnít be visible when it was installed in the car. After spraying both the carpet and the box I used a small roller to make sure there were no wrinkles and the carpet was sticking well.

I continued applying the carpet to each side of the enclosure always making sure to roll the carpet out smoothly ensuring no wrinkles. When I got back to the bottom I used a pair of scissors and cut off the excess carpet to make the seam unnoticeable as possible.

The next step was to get the edges of the enclosure done. I purposely added an extra inch to each side of the top, bottom, front and back panels when I cut them so I would have recessed side panels to mount installation accessories to. It also makes it easier to carpet in my opinion. By cutting the carpet on a 45 degree angle to each corner I was able to fold the carpet over and hold it in place with clamps while the glue dried. Then I took a razor blade and cute off the excess.

To get the right size piece of carpet for the side panels I used a piece of card board and cut it to fit snuggly into the recess. Then I laid it on the back of the carpet, traced and cut it and then glued it in place.

After letting the glue dry really well I took a razor blade and cut out the carpet covering the speaker, port and terminal holes.

The next step was to get the aero ports installed. After consulting the Precision Ports calculator I determined the appropriate length for each 4Ē port was 10.70Ē to get my desired tuning of 34hz. I used a dremel tool with a cut off wheel attachment to cut each port tube to the appropriate length. After securing the outside flare to the enclosure with screws I used CA glue to attach the internal flare to the tube. Then I attached the tube to the outside flare again using CA glue to hold everything together.

The final step in building the enclosure was to install the terminal cups. I used 12 gauge wire and soldered it to the tabs on the cups and then screwed them into the box. I also took time to finish caulking the inside seams on the top panel and around the inside where the aero ports attached to the box.

Last edited by OldSchoolRF; 05-31-2012 at 09:22 PM.
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Old 05-31-2012, 09:17 PM
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Building The Amp Rack

I wanted a good way to display the two Power 1500bd amps while also utilizing the end caps and link to hide all the necessary wires. You really donít see the end caps and links being incorporated into amps now a days but I really like how clean you can make your install look and I miss it. Most amps now just have the inputs hanging out the sides or bottom of the amp and itís hard to hide wires and rca cables. The incorporation of end caps and links into amplifier design has unfortunately been lost due to car audio companies wanting to make the cheapest amplifiers possible. The way an amplifier looks seems to have little to no importance to them. Today most amps look the same and to a person like me who remembers the old school amps, this is sad.

Here we have my absolute favorite mono block amplifier of all time. I could go on and on about why I love this amp but Iíll just stick to a brief summary. The made in the USA Rockford Fosgate Power 1500bd was and is an absolute power house. It is rated at 1500 watts rms at 2 ohms but every birth sheet I have seen has been well over 1750 watts rms. As well as being a beautiful and powerful piece of equipment, these amps were built like tanks. Both of these are well over 10 years old and work just like they did when they were brand new. With the amps being built in China and Korea today, youíre lucky if you get 6 months to a year out of them. They definitely donít make them like this anymore.

Here is a picture of the link that Iíll be using with these amps. It will go in between the two making them look like one big amp. Very cool in my opinion.

Here is the volt meter that replaces the RF logo piece in the middle of the link. This is wired directly into the power input of your amp so you get the voltage reading right where you need it. Very useful and also very cool.

I decided that the best place for me to mount the amps would be on the back of the box. I know that this is not the ideal place to put them but this was the only place I had that would allow me to show them off like I wanted to. I took extra precautions against excessive vibrations from the enclosure as youíll see later in the build.

The amp rack started as an old piece of ĺĒ mdf that I had used in a previous build that was cut to fit the back of the box. It was painted but that really didnít matter as I was planning on carpeting it anyhow.

The next thing I wanted to do was cut out holes for the wires for the amplifiers to pass through. Then I used a router and cut channels for all the wiring for the amps and the speaker terminals to lay in.

After carpeting the panel I decided to apply some extra Second Skin Luxury Liner Pro I had lying around between the enclosure and the amp rack. The LLP has a thick foam layer with a really thick rubber backing and should help keep vibrations from the enclosure from affecting the amps too bad. I again used the 3M Super 77 Spray Adhesive and roller to make sure it was attached to the amp rack.

At this point Iím going to have to stop again and talk about how cool the old school gear was. This next picture is of the Rockford Fosgate Triple X RCA Cables. These are by far the coolest RCA cables I have ever seen. Again, sadly, you donít see stuff like this anymore. The main cable body on these is as thick as the RF 2 gauge wire I used on the amps. These cables also feature Gamma Geometry which uses three wires (oneís a dummy) and unlike twisted pair designs, the conductors repeatedly cross each other closer to the optimum 90 degrees for better noise cancelling.

Hereís a closer look at the RF logo that then leads into the split of the two individual cables.

Here is the coolest part about these cables. The ends on these have a diamond cut RF logo in them. In the logos is a red and white metallic flake looking paint. Iím not sure how well it shows up in the pictures but itís absolutely terrific looking. When these cables first came out the .5 meter ones retailed for $59.99 and the 6 meter ones were $119.99. Certainly a lot of money for a set of cables but Iíve yet to find another set that out perform these on any level.

End rant, back to the amp rack. The next step was to run all the wires through the channels I had made before. These wires included four runs of 2 gauge, two sets of rca cables, remote wires and speaker wires. I ended up using some metal staples to hold them in place and the screwed the panel onto the back of the enclosure.

At this point I decided it would be a good idea to hook up the volt meter and make sure it worked considering it is over 10 years old.

After making sure it was working I went ahead and removed the RF logo from the link and installed the volt meter.

Since I still had some Luxury Liner Pro left over I decided to go ahead and use another layer to pad the amps themselves. I figured it couldnít hurt and the more vibrations I could cut out the better.

The next step was to mount and wire the amplifiers themselves. I forgot to take a picture but I always like to use heat shrink tubing on the power and ground connections on any amplifier I hook up. It makes it look cleaner and helps keep stray wires from coming out of the inputs. I also used rubber grommets on both the top and bottom of each mounting foot to again, help cut down on vibrations.

Here we have the finished product. Both amps were screwed down and the end caps and link screwed in. Of course I will have to remove them later for tuning but I just love the way it looks when itís all together.

I forgot to take pictures of it out of the car but I also to this time to install the BLD Line Driver and fuse holders onto the recessed side of the enclosure. Here are a couple pics of those.

Last edited by OldSchoolRF; 05-31-2012 at 09:23 PM.
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Old 05-31-2012, 09:17 PM
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Head Unit & Front Stage Installation

The head unit I’ll be using with this build is the Alpine IVA-W505 double din DVD player. I’ve been using this receiver for quite a while now and I really like it. The screen is super crisp and it has a lot of different features. The only problem I have with it is that the RCA outputs are only 2 volts so I am also using a Rockford Fosgate BLD line driver to increase the signal strength. I also installed a Pac TR-7 video bypass so I could watch DVDs while I’m driving. This was put in a while ago so I don’t have any pictures of the install.

I like to install a switch on my remote wires heading to the subwoofer amps. This allows me to turn them off quickly if I need to without fiddling with the menus on the head unit. I just used a drill bit to cut a small hole in a plastic panel and put the switch in.

The 06 Malibu has a 6.5” midrange in the door and a tweeter in the pillar. They didn’t sound too bad but I felt an upgrade was needed. I found a brand new set of made in the USA 5.25” Rockford Fosgate FNX components on eBay for $37 shipped. They are rated 75 watts rms and include the 5.25” midranges, .75” tweeters and crossovers. The crossovers are really cool because they look like the old Transana series of amps. I forgot to take a picture but here’s one I found.

I have a Power 550x that I was going to use to power these but I decided to just use the head unit. I really didn’t have room to mount any more amplifiers so I’ll be saving it for a future build.

The first thing to do was remove the door panels. This was pretty easy on this car because there were only a couple of screws and then it popped right off.

Here is a pic showing the difference between the factory speaker and the FNX. They are pretty beefy for a 5.25”

The factory door speaker was mounted to a plastic baffle which came out easily with the removal of four screws.

Since the factory speakers were 6.5” and the FNXs are 5.25” I needed to make some baffles for them to mount to. I chose to use a piece of .5” mdf that I had in the garage. I just traced around the outside of the plastic piece and cut it out with a jigsaw. I also drilled 8 holes for the screws.

Then I used a compass to draw the appropriate sized circles and cut them out. I used four screws to mount the baffle to the factory plastic piece. I used some silicone to make sure it would stay in place and not vibrate while the speaker was playing.

Then I installed the speaker in the baffle using the four remaining screw holes and attached the wires to the terminals.

The speaker was then put back in the door and wired up to the factory wiring.

The tweeters were pretty easy to install because they actually fit right into the factory opening. They were installed in the panel and wired to the factory wiring. There was an inline capacitor already there so I felt that would be enough protection for them. I’m not sure of the cutoff frequency but I’m not too concerned with it.

The last thing to do was reinstall the door panels and give them a listen. They sound pretty good for being ran off the head unit. This is a definite upgrade over the factory speakers. The highs are much crisper and the midranges are smooth and the low end response is better than I was expecting. This was a pretty good upgrade for $37.

Last edited by OldSchoolRF; 06-02-2012 at 11:24 AM.
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Old 05-31-2012, 09:17 PM
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Future progress..
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Old 05-31-2012, 09:18 PM
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Yup theres more..
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Old 05-31-2012, 09:18 PM
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Even more to come..
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Old 05-31-2012, 09:19 PM
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This should be the end..
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Old 05-31-2012, 09:25 PM
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