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  #1  
Old 08-18-2012, 11:10 PM
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Default 06' Si Daily build

Build log transferred from ROE:



Most current setup:
Pioneer DEH 7200HD
Hifonics BRZ, ZXi80.4
Sundown E12 sealed 1.03cu, Maxxsonics MX-3 bass controller


Long read so enjoy





Personally the hardest part about figuring out what I wanted was where to start. There were so many suggestion on doing front to back, and speakers then HU. After a few sleepless nights and seeking assistance from 98Civic (thanks man, none of this would be possible without you) I chose front to back.




Big 3

Alt to battery, chassis/engine ground, and battery ground done with #4 flexible welding wire. 200 amp fuse inline from alt to battery and a main 200 amp fuse for trunk power.

Battery shot: (Fuses are not mounted yet)



Power to trunk run through the plastic trim through the driver side fender into the car through an empty plastic grommet, like Honda knew it was the perfect spot, and run cleanly up through the drivers side floor trim under the rear seat into the trunk. Pictures in order:









Head Unit

Pioneer DEH7200HD





I really enjoy this product as it has loads of EQ adjustments for the audio.

Amp

Hifonics ZXi80.4 to drive front stage and sub. Directional Stinger RCA's to provide an clear signal from HU to amp. Sorry for the crappy pics. Cameras on its last leg...







This going to be fun to adjust:




Speakers

MBQuart PVL216 component set. Power supplied through 16 gauge OFC wire.






[
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  #2  
Old 08-18-2012, 11:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beckerson1 View Post
We were able to utilize the stock speaker mounts and this is the end result. Ya looks stock. Will get pictures with the door panel off when we deaden the doors (25%):



Tweeters are mounted on the kick panels. They were way to big to mount up top with the lower angled windshield:







Then we did the trunk. Please note that we just temporarily mounted this to the floor so it won't move and when done things will be hidden and mounting location will change:



The wire that goes to the top of the picture is the stock subs power:



Temporarily mounted crossovers:



We made our own ground directly into the frame:

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  #3  
Old 08-18-2012, 11:14 PM
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Its here!!!!


Here are some un-boxing pictures:



It passed testing before shipping:



Packed tight in foam surroundings:



Yes another 20 HP:



Shot inside plastic covering:



Little side view:





Specs:

Model E-12D4
RMS- 400W
Dual 4 ohm impedance

The construction is quite solid. It's my first sub so I can't really compare it to other designs but its built to handle a lot.
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  #4  
Old 08-18-2012, 11:16 PM
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Alright after discussing my issue with Jacob over at Sundown he is shipping me a replacement. So after the cost of shipping the blown unit its going to be just over $70 total... Anyway here is what I'm planning on doing.

My previous box is going to be sold, as long as we can determine what the actual cu feet it is. I still believe its close to what I posted but to be certain. Also we are going to shrink it to fit a ten or eight. We personally believe the box was way to small and due to the sub being so stiff in the beginning we didn't realize it was suffocating the sub. Probably due to the 11+ hours we worked on it and fatigue.

Lesson learned and we are going to do this thing right this time. The goal to save space has went down the tube with the blown sub. I still think I'm going with the SQ sealed setup. Also the idea of placing the amps on the rear seat also changed. I am now in the final planning stages of an amp rack. Here are some pics:

Now this shows four fans but that has changed to two:





Here is what the two will look like:



Here is the 3D rendered rack:







Now the hope is to be able to place the amp rack and the sub box side by side up by the rear seats. I measured a good 40.5 in and am figuring a max of 39.5 to be safe. The sub box is going to be 1 cubic foot and I believe we figured the length needs to be 18 in. These two items will be painted black as well.
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  #5  
Old 08-18-2012, 11:17 PM
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Sorry for the crappy cell phone shots. Didn't have my camera with me...


Here are a couple random shots:







Alright some shots of it being put together. Used screws and glue to hold this together...








And some finished shots:




This is going to be a nice video angle would you say? Imagine the sub jumping out at you....





Now we didn't get to the amp rack but that should be coming in a few months or so...

My friend also had an amp he wasn't using and let me borrow it until I get my mono amp in... I would show some more pictures but right now everything is kinda ghetto rigged down and somewhat unorganized. Yesterday I also added some sub woofer grills to protect the sub as well... Things are coming along nicely...

Even though I'm not pushing full power to this sub, it sure can hit... Love the transitioning and smoothness of the sealed setup as well...
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  #6  
Old 08-18-2012, 11:20 PM
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This post is picture heavy



The day has finally come to build my carefully planed amp rack. I will have to say that I had put a few hours into designing this amp rack to fit and had many visions for it.

So basically here was the mental plan:



The major idea was to clean up the install via adding a rack that holds all the amps and present itself as visual eye candy... The major issue with this was to have adequate air space around the amps.

The original idea was to add 4 fans to pull air through the box, over the amps dissipating the heat and blowing this hot exhaust out of the box... Of course when designing, things will change and the finial design was to use two 80 mm fans...


Didn't take a lot of build pictures but here is a shot showing everything together. All sides of the rear of the amp rack (which will be seen from inside the car):



The clap was used to hold the top on as I will either attach it with small magnets or use Velcro strips to hold this in place. The idea here is that the interior shelf and the top will be removable for access to the amps. The interior of the rack has been painted black as well.


Here is a shot of the front (what you will see when you open the trunk) of the amp rack. As you can see the fans will mount on the right hand side and the crossovers on the left hand side. I was originally going to hide these crossovers but they do look very nice and my friend suggested to even out the box and place them on the left of the fans. What isn't show is the voltage meter which is in the middle of these two things towards the top of the rack...



In case your wondering how the wires are going to get to the inside of the box, we drilled a total of three holes just under the crossovers to provide a very clean install...


Here is a shot showing the cut outs for the fans. We ended up rounding the outer edge to provide a very clean look.



Of course we tried to make these as center as possible. Nothing worse then uneven components :facepalm:


Off to paint:




As you can see here there are some holes inside the box to allow entry for speaker wire, power, ground, remote and its not shown here but the middle shelf has a hole to allow passage for more wire to the upper level. Unfortunately we weren't thinking and should have mad it a slot so we could remove the middle shelf to access the lower amp. Easy fix

We first sealed the box with a glue/water mix which helps seal the out pores of the MDF and provides a barrier between the paint and the very absorbent MDF. The next thing we did was add a base coat of flat black spray paint. Lastly we added the final coats of Textured black spray paint.



Ok to turn away from the amp rack itself for a little bit... Shown here is the mess of wires that need to be hidden and routed into the amp rack... Unfortunately I must not have taken a picture of the false floor but we were able to cut a piece, I believe, half inch ply wood to provide a solid place to mount the sub box and amp rack to.

Mess o' wire:





Now to fast forward a little bit.



This was a pita to do as the plastic under the stock cover is very tough for what it is. Also aligning the holes up was quite fun as well. As you can see all wire is run under the ply wood and up through to the positions to enter the amp rack... BTW I am still able to access the spare tire even with the boxes inside the trunk...


Alright back to the rack itself. Here is a shot of what the amp will look like inside:



BTW that's a temp amp until I get my mono amp


Time to mount the crossovers, voltage meter, and fans:



Now you can see the holes I was talking about...


Wire Wire everywhere:




Now to move to the side where the power/ground wires go.



Here is a shot showing the main idea. The power wire will enter from the right and the ground will exit from the left.

A relay was added to power the fans and any other accessories in the future. Didn't know which kind to get so I got a 30A relay as I can power many things with it before they draw to many amps...






Now for the power/ground to enter into the box:



Kind of a cool little design I must say.


Good Lord!!!! look at the mess we made




Close up shot of the Crossovers:





Look at how much we trimmed off the ground wire. Don't have a pic of the power wire but it was a good little bit as well.





Fast forward through the loads of connections and here is the final look:







The sub and amp rack are bolted down from the inside with at least three 1-3/8 in wood screws. The amp on the lower level then covers these screws and is bolted down as well. The sub box has three screws on the inside of the box.

It will be physically impossible to steal these things without spending loads of time busting the boxes and damaging the products... there is just no way a theft can get away with these things without having to take the car. Which has a security system with the immobilizer system which means they will have to either push it, or have a flat bed...


Now there were things that went wrong when things were fired up. First we noticed that the sub was extremely loud and was probably moving a good 1.5 inches or so... After about 6 min of this (playing How low can you Go) we noticed the sub and sub amp were hot. The amp being the hottest. After spending a good few min to get things moved enough to see my friend realized that he wired the sub bridged. Which the amp is stale at 4 ohms at 600W. So really the amp was seeing 2 ohms bridged at around 800W or so. Theoretically speaking of course, could have been even more...

This is speaking to the quality of Sundown's subs. Not only did it handle more then double the power but it was clipped power. Not at one point when it was playing did it sound bad. No distortion and sounded very good...

Now we will have to modify the amp rack a little so we can get the the gain on the sub. I want to thank my friend for his help as this wouldn't have been possible without his help.


Now its time to go to some car shows and maybe a comp or two to see what I got...



Stay tuned for more pics and videos as well... I do plan on hauling things in the trunk still so a sub grill is a necessary thing to have in my case. I've already paid a good bit of money towards it and don't need a golf club smashing into it and making it a dead sub...
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  #7  
Old 08-18-2012, 11:21 PM
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Here are some pics of it running:







[/QUOTE]
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  #8  
Old 08-18-2012, 11:23 PM
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Hey all just wanted to give you an update on my build... I had recently won a free case of Alpha Damp over a ROE and today was a good day to get it in with a lot of other things as well...

First thing was to gut the trunk so my friend work on dampening the trunk and do some necessary cleaning... I was amazed at all the crap I found down there...

As you can see there is a lot of the factory dampening on there already so all we did was reinforce that with the alpha damp



Hmm wonder what the plastic tube and vent sorta things is for?



Laying out the sheets to figure placement...



Damp in lets move on... I made sure to really hit the area over the muffler in hopes to eliminate whatever vibrations from the muffler I can...



I really didn't like the black random pieces of damp so decieded to get some aluminum foil Duct tape as I've heard its a wonderful sealer and makes it look much more uniform... Here are a couple progression shots









Finally done after a couple hours with a break or two included...




Got to represent my audio buds over at ROE. Custom made to fit my car and color matches... Thanks 98Civic





My friend hitting my door panels with deadener to kill the buzzing sounds I get at high volume...



OMG!!! LOOK AT THAT MESS. Did I do that...



Also to help with the buzzing sound my friend added some 3/4" foam tape on the outer spots of the door to separate metal to plastic contact as much as possible...



Also we finally added some Velcro to the amp rack to hold the top and middle pieces down so they won't become flying pieces of death when I slam the breaks on...



We still need to sand the top down flush to the box so it looks nice...

We also upped the power to the sub... First off the sub is rated to 400W RMS and can take that all day every day non stop no matter the music... I've been running it at 500W RMS max controllable with the included controller at which I have marked where 400W RMS is located for daily driving and 500W RMS for demo's/metering... Well needless to say the sub had no issue playing 500W RMS constantly... I was able to test it very well this past week as it was middle 90's and 30 min drives to and from work... So today we decided to up the power some more and we came upon 625W RMS for the max as the sub plays comfortable there on any song without having to much of an issue with thermal produced... We figure this is about the limit of the box and didn't want to push it to much and bottom the sub out... I am stilling using the remote to control the gain and have it set to play 500W RMS daily...

I played a couple songs with a 5 min break in between each song or so to allow the sub to cool (on took a few seconds but didn't want to push it) and the response is amazing... I wouldn't be surprised if I were mid to slightly upper 130's... Also the transition between bass notes is amazing... Just looking at the sub as it plays wants to make me go to the bathroom if you know what I mean... For a sealed setup I couldn't ask for more... Jacob did a wonderful job with these subs and they have a lot of potential...



We still are not done yet as today we need to work on sealing the rear deck with the foil tape and use some of the foam tape to stop it from rattling in the back as Honda has made it quite hard to put back on with the rear window in the way.
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  #9  
Old 08-18-2012, 11:24 PM
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Hello all,

We were able to get the MX-3 put in yesterday, well roughly as the setup instructions are really vague... but to the install


First off the unit itself looks really good with the chrome finish so I wanted it to be seen but with an extremely clean finish... I've been looking at the drivers side rear well for some time and imagining a nice flat finish with the unit inset with matching fabric that bleeds into the curves for a flawless flat finish... Kinda got the idea from those sub boxes that go into the same area... Just looks clean and flows

With all this in mind we took a few measurements to make a mounting base for the unit with close to a 30 degree angle to give a nice look...

The base was a basic triangle setup with a 3 in base and 8 in high...

Want to say sorry for the crappy cell phone pics but didn't have my camera with me as this was a spur of the moment type of thing...



The whole mount is drilled into the sheet metal right behind the carpet...


Now that we had the basic mount done up we had to figure out what we would use to make the beauty panel to hide and clean things up... After running to our local Wally World we found a sheet of black Foam board that we could shape to the contours of the well... This stuff is actually quite strong and when coupled with the fabric/carpet finish shouldn't have much of an issue with things damaging it to much... I mean for $2 it wouldn't be hard to replace/fix...

Basically we just used a utility knife to cut the general shape out... Being careful to not take to much at a time:




Next on the list was to cut out the window for the MX-3... Once again we found and cut a small window where the unit was and then cut small pieces off until we got the finished look...





At this point it was time to run power, ground, remote, and RCA input/output wires... Won't go into much detail about this but the wires where run behind the carpeting through the stock hole in the carpet from the screw tab that held the carpet up and to the unit itself... It was recommended to put a 5 amp inline fuse on the power wire as the unit itself isn't fused. We didn't have a inline fuse holder on us so we had to make our own... I do have on order a fuse holder and that will replace our mock up... Once it stop raining I will get more pictures for you... At this point this is a work in progress so things are not tied down






Now tuning this thing was really unclear as there isn't much detail out there about the unit and the tutorial vids for this unit don't necessarily sit well with conventional amp tuning... I will probably make a DIY about setting things up correctly using this unit as things can seriously go wrong if things are not set up right...



A few weeks ago we were able to determine that I have a slight dip right around 37 hz of roughly 3 db's... So we focused right on a 40 hz tone for the setup with roughly +/- 5 hz to either side of roughly 1.5 db boost on the MX-3. Depending on how good the clipping indicator is there isn't any hard clipping until the exact peak of my max output at 47 hz... And were talking a millisecond... I don't really worry about it as this unit seems to pick up any clipping within the recording itself and i can't really do anything about it.


Hopefully in a few weeks or so we can get back on the meter to further tune the unit and tune things correctly at that point...
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  #10  
Old 08-18-2012, 11:26 PM
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Small update:

I'm currently in the planning stage of building a centralized mounting board for my remotes, a rocker switch for disabling my ELD (thing pisses me off so much, the delay is horrible), and possible another voltage meter up front that will be on a switch that would allow me to run it when I want to keep an eye on it up front... Probaby will run all new wire directly from the battery to it if I decide to do this...

I will be placing this in a din right in front of my shifter which I can part with... Its quite a large area so here is what i'm planning so far...

[/QUOTE]




BUILD LOG HERE: Centralized remote mounting board... Help/ideas/build log - Realm of Excursion
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