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  #1  
Old 09-15-2013, 04:02 AM
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Default Jeep Cherokee nowall build, 8 SA 12s

I usually dont do build logs because I ALWAYS forget to take pictures along the way, but Im going to try to remember to take them this time around.

Vehicle is a 91 Jeep Cherokee 4 door. Bought it with quite a bit of body damage, broken window up front, the interior pretty much destroyed (bird shit everywhere) but in "running" condition. 250k miles on the chassis and roughly 100k on the motor/auto trans. It needed tires (still does), a power steering pump, and a freeze plug on the back of the motor which you cant get to without pulling the transmission. It also came with everything in the back needed to convert it to a manual gearbox. Me being me, I enjoy driving a manual more, so I pulled the auto out and converted it, fixed that freeze plug as well.



The front of the Jeep was pushed inwards from what looked like hitting a wall. I still need to find a bumper, but I hooked up the bumper mount to a tree stump and used the vehicles power to pull it back somewhat straight. Its not great though. The vehicle right now is manual locks/windows/mirrors/seats/everything. Im not sure on the seats yet, but Im converting the front doors to power windows/locks/mirrors by swapping on doors from a newer jeep. They bolt up but the door latches have to be modified slightly. The wiring however will have to be totally custom, nothing plugs in and theres not even a harness available to plug it into because the vehicle is almost 10 years older than the vehicle the doors come off of. I replaced both the back doors as well with doors that have power windows because of damage to the old doors. Not sure yet if I will be hooking up the power windows or just leave them up forever.

Enough about the car, heres the list of equipment, some of it Im not 100% sure on just yet.

Subs- 8 D2 SA 12s
Sub box- 14.75cube nowall box tuned to 30~. For anyone who knows/has heard of Alan Coates, this is his old box before his Mazda Tribute was totaled. I bought it from him.
Sub Amps- At first 2 Ampere Audio 3800s at 1 ohm, eventually 4 of them at 1/2 ohm.
Mids/highs amp- When the time comes, I may pull my Diamond D7104 from my car, or just buy a Sundown 125.4 to use
Mids/highs- Single pair of mids/tweets for now. Not sure what just yet.
Wire- 150' of 2/0 Welding wire, 4 runs total from front to back
Alts- 2 hairpin 290A internally regulated alts
Batts- 6 Powerware 140ah batteries + XS Power D3400 under the hood w/ toolmaker terminals
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Last edited by KTMrida4life; 12-09-2013 at 12:37 AM.
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Old 09-15-2013, 04:15 AM
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Good stuff man. The XJ alts are externally regulated and controlled by the PCM. Most only charge in the low to mid 13s so run the transpo 911 external regulator so you can adjust it to where it needs to be.
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Old 09-15-2013, 04:17 AM
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Also while you have the doors off. Have the hinges welded, they are prone to cracking and after you add weight to the doors with a large front stage plus tons of flex youll be glad you did it.
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Old 09-15-2013, 04:17 AM
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Of the equipment, I have the subs/box and batteries. I have 3 SAZ 3000s in various conditions (one working, 1 blown, 1 works sometimes) and I plan on fixing the 2 and selling them and going a different route, unless I can get the 2 fixed and in good working order, then I may find another, and use 4. Main downside is even if I have them fixed properly they are terribly ugly. Thats also if I even have the space to mount all 4. I also have 3 brand new 18" subs I need to sell, they are NSv1 motors built up with 18" Zv3 soft parts.

So far, Ive replaced the grille in the front, swapped it to the manual, fixed the leaking freeze plug, straightened the bumper mount, replaced both back doors, completely stripped the interior, grinded away and painted the little bit of surface rust under the carpet (it was wet, replacing it) and started deadening with alphadamp.

I will get more pictures soon as these arent up to date.


Manual gearbox is in!


"New" junkyard door on


Other side "new" junkyard door on (yes, from 2 different vehicles, accidentally dropped the other black door on the ground in the junkyard and dented it BAD)


Cargo area interior stripped out


Cargo area carpet cleaned. This was terribly dirty, but nothing a bunch of purple power degreaser, spot shot, elbow grease and a hot water pressure washer couldnt fix!


I bought 60sqft of alphdamp last weekend and got the vehicle mostly deadened. Floor, wheel wells, roof, and one rear door is done. There is +/- 25% coverage on the floor, the rear wheel wells are more like 50% and roof is 100% coverage and doubled in the very center. I was actually very surprised on how drastic it was on the roof as it was BAD. This deadener is no joke, I had never seen the product in person but it is serious stuff! Does not take much of it to do something. Used 40sq ft so far, saving the last 20sqft for touch up areas and the other 3 doors. I am starting to spray great stuff foam everywhere now.. filling the pillars and misc. areas everywhere, wheel wells, anywhere that might flex and potentially cause an issue.

The roof sounds solid now hitting on it but still flexes. The factory roof braces are unglued from it and they arent very sturdy to begin with. A buddy of mine helping with this build may have come up with a solution on how to help roof flex (it will still exist but should be much better) and I will post on that in a month or so. Gotta buy a MIG welder and get it all setup and learn how to weld decent first.
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Old 09-15-2013, 04:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LyferXB9s View Post
Good stuff man. The XJ alts are externally regulated and controlled by the PCM. Most only charge in the low to mid 13s so run the transpo 911 external regulator so you can adjust it to where it needs to be.
Yup, have a friend with pretty much the same jeep and his charged at almost 15v till his PCM regulator died. We converted it to an external regulator (not adjustable) and now hes back at 14.8V.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LyferXB9s View Post
Also while you have the doors off. Have the hinges welded, they are prone to cracking and after you add weight to the doors with a large front stage plus tons of flex youll be glad you did it.
Will do, theres a few places Im going to try and beef up some before I get it playing. Easier to prevent stuff than it is to fix it. Where in particular are you talking about on the hinges, where they bolt to the body/door?
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Old 09-15-2013, 04:23 AM
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I failed to mention that I also already have my dual alternator bracket from LyferXB9s. Heres a picture that Alan took when he was trying to sell the box.



Also FWIW, he did a 155.5 sealed up @ 37hz in that vehicle. LOUD. I am hoping, with more power and a vehicle thats known to get loud, for a 55+ at around the same frequency and would probably shit my pants if I did a 56+.
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Old 09-17-2013, 12:52 AM
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"New" Grille is on! I like this blue, whats everyone else think? Might get it painted a similar blue, but darker like Navy blue


Bumper mount sorta straightened out, still not great, long as the bumper mounts up ok I dont care


Hood sits flat now like it should


Looking into the jeep, floor deadened with Alphadamp


Another view, all of the white paint is where there was surface rust under the carpet and I had to grind it clean then paint it.


Roof deadened 100% with alphadamp, this made a very drastic difference in how it sounds. Great stuff foam sprayed in all the gaps/cracks, roof braces are separated from the roof but I have something planned for that


Rear quarter panel, I think I might fill it 100% with great stufff foam


Terrible picture, but driver side rear door deadened with alphadamp


This is where I used a 30lb sledge to beat the floor in to be able to fit a battery on each side under the box. Tranny tunnel creased a little, but it doesnt matter


Floor ripped from stretching it... soon as I get a welder I will weld this up



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Old 09-17-2013, 11:36 AM
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I am confused at the great job od deadening of the roof and the sporadic at best deadening of everything else?
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Old 09-18-2013, 03:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oblivion View Post
I am confused at the great job od deadening of the roof and the sporadic at best deadening of everything else?
Haha well, the roof needed 100% coverage, much easier to make it look nice. Everywhere else I would take whatever I had laying around or already cut up, and if it didnt sound solid, I stuck it down. No one will ever see any of it anyway.

I would do 100% on the floor too, just dont have enough alphadamp.. and its expensive, I paid 5$ shipped sqft and typically its anywhere from 6-9$ shipped sq/ft
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Old 09-18-2013, 03:23 PM
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That box slammed ...
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