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  #1  
Old 01-10-2015, 05:39 PM
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Default 1999 Chevrolet Blazer - 24" Tantric SHD

So, moving my build log over here. This is very picture-heavy. I have literally 40 or so posts, so please bear with me until I'm done to post. I'll let you know

Here’s a brief rundown of the notable pieces:

Pioneer DEH-80PRS – Head unit
Vifa NE25VTS-04 - Tweeters
Exodus Anarchy – Mids
Custom 3HP 15” – Subs
PSI 18” passive radiator – Passive Radiators
DC Power Inc 270XP – Alternator
Sears Diehard Platinum – Batteries
KnuKonceptz and Sky High Car Audio – Wiring

Goal for this build is basically the definition of SQL. Don’t plan on seeing a meter other than to just see where I am once or twice, haven't yet. I wanted it to sound great first and foremost, and it does that.

I will just be copying and pasting, so most posts will be in present-tense, but all this is done. There's a LOT of pictures incoming, so be patient with the posts.

Here’s the ride when I bought it. I have since taken off the roof rack:



First up, Pioneer DEH-80PRS. This was in my last ride, love this HU. Will be the first time running it active. Planning to cross at 63Hz and 2kHz. Will be using an iPod/iPhone via USB most of the time, don’t really use CD’s.









For my tweeters, I’m using Vifa NE25VTS-04’s. Frequency charts look good, usable down to 1.5kHz with a fairly flat response. In the A pillars, aimed at opposite headrests. Guess I never really took good photos of these. Not a huge loss, they’re not that special. You’ll see them more later on.

Last edited by gckless; 01-10-2015 at 08:39 PM.
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  #2  
Old 01-10-2015, 05:40 PM
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A pair of Exodus Anarchy’s will be used for mids. 125W RMS @ 8ohms, XBL^2 underhung design, they be some beefy guys. These will be going in the stock location in the doors, but some work will have to be done to fit them.

Thread found here: Exodus Anarchy

















Compared to some Polk dB651's I have:

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Old 01-10-2015, 05:40 PM
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For my subs, I have a pair of custom built 3HP 15” subs, built by Zeuslicious. Modded 3hp tall top plate and 3-1" magnet slugs instead the regular .75", dual 1 ohms big ww and 8 layer fw aluminum coil, dual spaced TC spiders and DD 8" Carbon Fiber cap. Rated at 1800W RMS. I polished the magnets. Will be mounting these inverted.

Thread found here: My new custom 3HP's

















Here is a before/after comparison:





They turned out well. Just need to clear coat them now, and I'll be done with them.
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Old 01-10-2015, 05:41 PM
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For this build I will be using passive radiators. Was gonna go ported, but [MENTION=20]neo_styles[/MENTION] talked me into it. These are 18” PR’s built by Dave at PSI. He’s a good dude, can’t say enough about the customer service over there. And these are beautiful. 3.5” p-p travel, carbon fiber caps, dual spiders to handle the power, green logo.

Plan on playing around with tuning quite a bit. My first tune will be at 23Hz, and I’ll go from there.

Thread found here: PSI 18" Passive Radiators



















Here is the box design:



9 cubes gross, with displacements should bring me down to right around 8.5 net. I'm going to mount inverted, and being a bit bigger leaves me room to mount normally if I need/want to. It also will fit right in between the wheel wells, no building over the wells bullshit. About 6" from the hatch.
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Old 01-10-2015, 05:41 PM
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For power up front, I’ll be running a Zed Audio Leviathan III. Channels 1 and 2 will be tweets, and channels 3 & 4 and 5 & 6 will be bridged for a Anarchy for each pair of channels. So I have 190W RMS @ 4ohms for each tweeter, and 380W RMS @ 8ohms for each mid. Power is not an issue

Got this through [MENTION=142]Vertex Audio[/MENTION]'s trade-in program. Traded in my DC 175.4 and pair of DC Level 3 10's, and I paid very little cash.

Thread is here: Zed Audio Leviathan III

















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Old 01-10-2015, 05:42 PM
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For sub power, I’ll be using a DC 5.0k. Will be mounted upside-down. I made a plexi back and am showing off those guts.

















Compared to a 2.0k:



Plexi:

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Old 01-10-2015, 05:42 PM
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Now for pretty much the only work I have done, my A pillars. I Bondo’d in some PVC, flocked them, and installed them in the vehicle. They look pretty good and the finish is holding up pretty well so far.

Thread: A Pillars - Flocked!!

First, I cut the PVC to where they would sit semi-flush, and aim at the opposite headrests. This was done with a dremel. I had originally planned on using a flush-mount baffle, but [MENTION=8]keep_hope_alive[/MENTION] recommended against it, due to the lip on the flush-mount.



Then, took them down to the car and aimed them. Tacked them with superglue.



Added some Bondo. Decided not to use fiberglass because of the relatively small amount I needed here.



This was after a little filling and sanding work, maybe like 4 sessions with Bondo. There were a few pits in it, and I was pretty fed up with Bondo at that point lol, so I just used wood glue to dab on and fill those pits, then sanded it smooth.



After some coats of paint/primer and some sanding, I had this.





Not horrible, but still some imperfections. But, if I was just going to keep it a spray paint, I could have worked those out.

But I decided to try flocking them. Flock is finely ground material, can be a bunch of things like ribbon, fabric, PVC, feather, a lot of things. Not a whole lot of prep work needs to be done besides getting the surface fairly smooth. You also need to paint it the color of the flock, the end goal color, if you want it a solid color. I used clear glue, so that shows through. You may also get colored glue, or paint the surface a separate color for an effect.

Anyway, here are the products I used. Found them at Michael's, it's called "embossing powder". They looked at me like I was speaking Thai when I said "flock".



So here I tried a test patch on the back of the pillars. The process is simple: you brush on the glue, then sprinkle on the powder. They sell a kind of shooter for the powder, and I also think you can spray it on with an airbrush, which would probably yield better results. But I just sprinkled it on.



Then just tapped it off the next day.

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Old 01-10-2015, 05:43 PM
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Worked the small panel where my tape player is. Tape player will be coming out.



That panel pops right off, and I cut a small piece of plastic and worked some Bondo in there.





This is where I will be putting my meters, the USB connection for the 80PRS, my PAC LC-1, and possibly other switches/electronic stuff.

Also ordered a dual ammeter/voltmeter gauge and shunt. Going to try it out, see if I can make it work. Ordered these ones:

DC 0 100V 0 500A Dual LED Digital Volt Meter Ammeter Voltage Amp Power F 12V Car | eBay
500A 75mV DC Current Shunt Resistor for Amp Panel Meter | eBay


Dat wire





KnuKonceptz Kolossus Fleks Kandy cable. 50ft of 1/0ga, 10ft of 4ga, and 16ft of 8ga, all OFC. 4ga for my Levi, 8ga from sub amp to box, 1/0 for everything else to include 2 positive runs front to rear. This is half of the wire I need, this is all my positive. Need an equal amount in black for negative. Will be getting Sky High Car Audio wire from Jim.

Also determined I need to make the amp rack myself, so I'll be picking up a few hand saws this weekend. May end up making my box too depending on how the amp rack goes. Anyone try the Craftsman bolt-on kit (http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_101...00916496000P)? Gonna try it out, gonna get the drill, router, jigsaw, and sander attachments. Going to get a seperate 20V trim saw that will cut 45's as well.


Got some work done on the amp rack/battery box:



Both Lowe's and Home Depot didn't have full sheets of birch, which I find odd. They did have 2'x4' sheets of 3/4", which I used, and BARELY had enough with what I had leftover from the last box. Anyway, still need to measure and cut the two side pieces over the wheel well, because I changed the dimensions a little so the cardboard template won't work. Also need the $150 worth of fans I want to measure and do the cooling the way I want it.


Shell is done.



Not fond of this corner, but needed to be done to get over the wheel well



Need clean up some of the cuts and edges. Need to add some fans in there somehow, not quite sure how yet. Also need to add supports in the bottom, because the floor isn't exactly even.

Cut the top piece. Here's how it should look:



The amps will be mounted about .5-.75" off the board. Gonna have to use threaded rod and washers/nuts for the 5k because the mounting tabs are so far off the board. Threaded rod and washers/nuts are so ugly though. Anyone have any ideas?

But I am going to be drilling holes for all wires, routing all edges, then staining it. Will be on hinges so the long edge close to the 5k opens upward.
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Old 01-10-2015, 05:43 PM
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Just got this in today:



Combination ammeter/voltage meter and 500A 75mV shunt. Should allow me to see both voltage and current draw from my amps. Hopefully I can wire it up correctly and not fry it. Got the manufacturer (Chinese) to provide me a translated wiring diagram, so I should be alright. Has anyone used something like this before?


Made some standoffs from some material I got at Lowe's. Amps are 1.25" from the board.








Got tint done all around today. Done by a 3M authorized installer so it's guaranteed for life (as long as I don't lose the card). Got 35% on the front two windows, and 20% on all windows behind the driver in addition to the factory tint, so around 10% in the back.



Been workin on the amp rack/batt box a little, but nothin worth posting yet.
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Old 01-10-2015, 05:43 PM
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So, been working on the amp rack. Got both amps figured out, mounting holes drilled and test-mounted, power wire holes drilled and routed, just waiting on fans now to measure and cut holes for before I start to stain the top piece.



Also got it mounted on hinges and latches. Used butterfly latches, pretty much the only latches I know of that I trust not to eventually rattle loose.









Thinkin about getting some hood or trunk gas springs, not sure yet. Probably will just use a strap or something to keep it from going too far over.

I'm positive I'm staining the top a nice dark brown, still undecided on the bottom, will probably just carpet.

Got my $100 worth of fans in from Newegg. 140mm fans, top will be pulling, side will be pushing out from box. Sorry, the pictures are a bit shoddy, it's da iPhone.





I think the top is ready for stain after some light sanding. I was thinking about putting a voltage meter and the switches for the fans up there, but I think I'm going to keep it clean and put them on the sides. I think it would ruin the classic stained look.

Also, I LOVE this Craftsman Bolt-on kit. I've done all of this with the driver, jigsaw, and router attachments (besides the side cuts with a trim saw).
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