ill start with the N2. it was purchased at a price too stupid to say no. so I bought it. once I got it, it was a lot more then shifted as originally described. after disassembling the motor completely, and rather easily I may say, im not surprised it shifted. THIS IS NOT BASHING SO MOVE ON IF YOUR LOOKING FOR A TURD TOSSING MATCH.
first thing first was to remove the top plate. bolted a 15" basket to the top plate and yanked it off.
the thickness of the glue on this surface leads me to believe there was a height variance between the two sides other wise it would have oozed out.
the paint doesn't stick to the metal, at all. i know in the past, a vast majority of fi motor and fi built motors have rust bleeding through them from bad paint. my sp4 did, fi q's, new zcons that went from the box right into a 4th, etc.
upon removing the top plate i noticed the pole moved side to side so it as well was soon to be removed. it had came unthreaded some how. later on the screw was locked tight so i assume the pole is glued, then a bolt ran in as far as possible but it didn't hold the pole its self.
started to remove the side pillars. a single tap of a piece of wood it came right off real easy.
then the other side
one side had a hole in the plate and the other didn't. i assume this was to indicate what sides of the plates went where but based on some measurement the plates are symmetrical so it shouldn't need a specific direction that i could see.
you can see here the bit they used to open the screw hole to allow for the head to be recessed is slightly dull
the screw, as mentioned, had thread locker on it so i used an old school trick of using a reverse bit to get the screw hot. then it came right out
the heat sink design is a little interesting in regards to how its integrated into the motor. its just kinda set in. the top plate then pinches it tight. im sure they used it as a template width wise for pillar spacing as well as that makes sense. the fins were bent in a few places but then fixed.
the reason for failure on this motor was a broken glue bond. and im not surprised. the nickel coating on most of the neos was bubbled from an interaction with the adhesive. since the nickel plating is literally what your gluing too and not the actual neo, that's the weak link. in this case its a very weak one.
the ridge/mountain looking line on the right is where the bubble begins
touch it and it peels off
so it is what it is. but, on too a rebuild it goes.