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Audio Contrations RCB4 discussion

4K views 38 replies 9 participants last post by  Jeffhulbert50 
#1 · (Edited)
I mentioned the other day I was working on a few new devices for the store. one of them wasn't predesigned and I will be assembling the circuitry my self. I finished the design last night for circuit its self and just placed my order for the components. I will be doing 3 units of this particular piece to start and see if theres a demand for them.

the item in particular has been on my list for a bit over a year now. its not rocket science or a new found technology but the design and layout of the internals show the care and respect needed to make a proven device that does what it should.

I call it the RCB4 (relay control box, 4 standing for the outputs)


the use-

theres been countless threads over the years on how to wire up relays when the remote wires output just isn't enough for multiple amps or fans/lights/small draw sources. this device will solve that issue without having to use a standard relay and figuring out the wiring (its a challenge for some) or if the user wants a cleaner look yet have more options then "its on" "its off".

the box will use a single input source to power up to 4 outputs. there will be 5 leds total (ultra violet, corresponding holes seen in lid). the row of 4 illuminate showing active output in each respective channel. the one in the bottom center shows on/off of the main input ( meaning the main input is being used to trigger any of the 4 outputs). don't want everything on at the same time? theres a switch inside for each channel. simply flip it to allow manual input to engage. for example if you have a toggle switch up front for cooling fans, you can hook that into any of the 4 channels and engage that channel whenever you please. each channel has a thermal fuse for over draw (limited to 1.35-1.5 amps for channel) due to all the power sources sharing the same input terminal. that's still plenty of power for 4+ computer style fans per channel or a bunch of leds. if for some reason you place a large current draw on the channel, the fuse will increase heat until the circuit opens causing the output to shut off. once the fuse cools it will turn back on. I also incorporated a flyback diode for each channel to eliminate chances of reverse voltage spikes to the headunit or any hooked up sources. the box is fine up to 16v operation.

the other two electronic devices will be useful also. one removes the need for a remote wire from front to back as its wirelessly triggered via remote (up to 4 channels) and the other is a neat voltage protection unit
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that was posted in my other thread . im a feedback guy, I like to discuss what you guys as potential owners would like to see. heres a few options/questions id like thoughts on

-mounting holes

the goal with the design is clean. I want it to scream "classy". part of this is mounting design. a few options.

mounting holes inside the box

mounting holes outside (counter bore)

mounting tabs



-lid style

Im planning for a plexi lid, likely smoked. the following options pertain to how the lid is put on/taken off

lid on top (same size as the box and simply goes on top like pictured above)

flushed lid that sits within the box, this would give it a trimmed out look

-backlit board

a neat feature with pcb is that, when lit underneath, the light illuminates through. the options are as follow

allow the user to turn on the under glow via a switch (increase cost by a few bucks)

go without
would look similar to this as all the lights used are UV led's


-box color/material
what color to make the boxes.

all one color (black)

choose your color (extra setup time)

limited edition copper polished (its a copper infused filament that requires a lot of work to look perfect) this would translate to a $10 cost increase as the material alone is 3x the cost
 

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#34 ·
I know it's pretty late in the design process to be making suggestions, but... how difficult would it be to integrate a signal sensing turn-on feature to this?

My last two vehicles (newer cars) have no remote wire from the HU. So either I have to find a 12v switched and turn the key to IGN II or use a LOC with signal sensing (like the LC2i). The problem there is that I don't *need* a LOC so I really only use the GTO feature of the AC unit. Which is ridiculous.

I understand your target market here, but I think it would add flexibility and value to the unit. And would mean that I would buy two instead of just one.
 
#35 ·
i can do that. im looking at a rework already as the PCB pricing is by the sq inch and i can make it alot smaller with some clever wiring. ill include a switch to choose between main input and rca signal as a secondary with pot to adjust sensitivity of the turn on to the transistor. this would still allow individual control of the channels yet control between 1 - 4 channels via main signal (remote wire) or rca level sense
 
#36 ·
did you design that board by yourself? i've taken basic courses on digital circuit design and it's pretty annoying if you're attempting to simplify circuits lol im just kinda surprised if you were able to learn that by yourself i had enough trouble with an extremely smart professor teaching me
 
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