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  #1  
Old 11-25-2015, 02:31 PM
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Default Audio Contrations RCB4 discussion

I mentioned the other day I was working on a few new devices for the store. one of them wasn't predesigned and I will be assembling the circuitry my self. I finished the design last night for circuit its self and just placed my order for the components. I will be doing 3 units of this particular piece to start and see if theres a demand for them.

the item in particular has been on my list for a bit over a year now. its not rocket science or a new found technology but the design and layout of the internals show the care and respect needed to make a proven device that does what it should.

I call it the RCB4 (relay control box, 4 standing for the outputs)


the use-

theres been countless threads over the years on how to wire up relays when the remote wires output just isn't enough for multiple amps or fans/lights/small draw sources. this device will solve that issue without having to use a standard relay and figuring out the wiring (its a challenge for some) or if the user wants a cleaner look yet have more options then "its on" "its off".

the box will use a single input source to power up to 4 outputs. there will be 5 leds total (ultra violet, corresponding holes seen in lid). the row of 4 illuminate showing active output in each respective channel. the one in the bottom center shows on/off of the main input ( meaning the main input is being used to trigger any of the 4 outputs). don't want everything on at the same time? theres a switch inside for each channel. simply flip it to allow manual input to engage. for example if you have a toggle switch up front for cooling fans, you can hook that into any of the 4 channels and engage that channel whenever you please. each channel has a thermal fuse for over draw (limited to 1.35-1.5 amps for channel) due to all the power sources sharing the same input terminal. that's still plenty of power for 4+ computer style fans per channel or a bunch of leds. if for some reason you place a large current draw on the channel, the fuse will increase heat until the circuit opens causing the output to shut off. once the fuse cools it will turn back on. I also incorporated a flyback diode for each channel to eliminate chances of reverse voltage spikes to the headunit or any hooked up sources. the box is fine up to 16v operation.

the other two electronic devices will be useful also. one removes the need for a remote wire from front to back as its wirelessly triggered via remote (up to 4 channels) and the other is a neat voltage protection unit
-------------------------------------------------------------------


that was posted in my other thread . im a feedback guy, I like to discuss what you guys as potential owners would like to see. heres a few options/questions id like thoughts on

-mounting holes

the goal with the design is clean. I want it to scream "classy". part of this is mounting design. a few options.

mounting holes inside the box

mounting holes outside (counter bore)

mounting tabs



-lid style

Im planning for a plexi lid, likely smoked. the following options pertain to how the lid is put on/taken off

lid on top (same size as the box and simply goes on top like pictured above)

flushed lid that sits within the box, this would give it a trimmed out look

-backlit board

a neat feature with pcb is that, when lit underneath, the light illuminates through. the options are as follow

allow the user to turn on the under glow via a switch (increase cost by a few bucks)

go without
would look similar to this as all the lights used are UV led's


-box color/material
what color to make the boxes.

all one color (black)

choose your color (extra setup time)

limited edition copper polished (its a copper infused filament that requires a lot of work to look perfect) this would translate to a $10 cost increase as the material alone is 3x the cost
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Last edited by Jeffhulbert50; 11-25-2015 at 09:20 PM.
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  #2  
Old 11-25-2015, 02:52 PM
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for the love of installing, please use external tabs. i know it will add to the time and whatever but please? please?.... please? i will absolutely freak on the next person who thinks its a good idea to put a mounting screw below a fuse block to mount it. make sure the tabs are reinforced, bass will pull that bitch right out, trust me. the easier you can make this to install the better.

as far as the cover, use whats sturdiest and resists cyclic vibration best imo. use screws if possible, i really dont care if its ugly due to that i want usability first, looks second.

edit; i suppose internal mounting would be fine to make it look clean, id just be worried about touching the circuit or the hassle of it. maybe if you can mount the screws outside of the circuit board but inside the case

black box, tinted cover, keep it simple..

Last edited by mitchell0715; 11-25-2015 at 02:59 PM.
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Old 11-25-2015, 04:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mitchell0715 View Post
for the love of installing, please use external tabs. i know it will add to the time and whatever but please? please?.... please? i will absolutely freak on the next person who thinks its a good idea to put a mounting screw below a fuse block to mount it. make sure the tabs are reinforced, bass will pull that bitch right out, trust me. the easier you can make this to install the better.

as far as the cover, use whats sturdiest and resists cyclic vibration best imo. use screws if possible, i really dont care if its ugly due to that i want usability first, looks second.

edit; i suppose internal mounting would be fine to make it look clean, id just be worried about touching the circuit or the hassle of it. maybe if you can mount the screws outside of the circuit board but inside the case

black box, tinted cover, keep it simple..
im very structurally minded with designs. the tabs wouldn't be simple platform, they would have accompanying angles to support the cantilever like tab.

the easiest would be topped like pictured above. it would still be plenty strong and easier to remove as the alternative of flush mounting would involve needing a way to get the lid out. the top would be screwed down (6 screws) slightly counter bore for a clean look

if the screw were internal for mounting, the board its self within the enclosure would have space around its perimeter to allow for a "floating" look and a place for the mounting screws
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Old 11-25-2015, 05:05 PM
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can you make it two screws for the cover, two screws to hold the device? 6 screws seems excessive unless the design requires it
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Old 11-25-2015, 06:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mitchell0715 View Post
can you make it two screws for the cover, two screws to hold the device? 6 screws seems excessive unless the design requires it
2 screws would require thicker plexi to keep any spots from possible vibrating. can certainly be done as the cost wouldn't be vast ( its about the size of an altoid container but taller)
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Old 11-25-2015, 06:56 PM
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estimated price?
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Old 11-25-2015, 07:35 PM
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around $80 - 90. wont know 100% until I have one fully built
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Old 11-25-2015, 09:16 PM
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I'm just inquiring on the name, is it RCB or RGB?
The former seems fitting, the latter reminded me of an old tube style monitor.
Was it just a typo? The sketchup looks like RCB
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Old 11-25-2015, 09:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by craiggus365 View Post
I'm just inquiring on the name, is it RCB or RGB?
The former seems fitting, the latter reminded me of an old tube style monitor.
Was it just a typo? The sketchup looks like RCB
RCB, must have hit g. good catch
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Old 11-26-2015, 11:33 AM
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bump for more feedback.
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