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Trunk wall or no?

563 views 15 replies 10 participants last post by  KickinBlazer 
#1 ·
would there be a very big diffrence between walling off at the trunk facing forward or a slide in box rear facing?.....anyone tested or done this?....going from a pair of 10's to a single 15 ......iv got experience with building so build would be quality....
 
#2 ·
well it would prolly be better to wall. i had 2 HDC312'S with a trunk wall in my sebring i had got pretty loud and i had no trunk rattle. i kind of did it half azz but basically i just used spray foam to fill the gaps between the sides of the box and trunk wall. the box i made fit in pretty tite so i did not have to use much. i also used it to fill any other holes that would allow air to move between the trunk and cabin.
i copied it from what i said on ROE lol
 
#5 ·
exactly what i said on ROE to...lol...not really looking for numbers manily SQL

i am not worried about trunk rattles 2 layers of stinger roadkill and felt stuffed in voids.....my only problem is to run the trunk wall would take me relocating the 6x9's (in factory locations), battery, amp and rerunning the 1/0.....would it be worth all that just to wall....or just build a slide in box, relocate the 6x9's and add a little more deadening to the rear deck?
 
#4 ·
What is a trunk wall? I never seen a wall that was 17 inch high LOL.

But a properly sealed off front firing box sounds great and can do numbers.
 
#6 ·
ive recently just sealed off my trunk. i love the sound so much more than when i had it in the trunk. plays pretty low. 28hz full tilt and i dont have to worry about bottoming out. every set up is different, and every car is different. prefer the seal off cuz of less rattles. even if you have your trunk lid deaden its actuallly the matter of can you still hear the rattle? saz3k on 2 treo ssx in the trunk rattle so much i hatted it. broke my spoilter bolts and worst part is you can hear the rattles while playing bass. sealed off i get little rattle from the trunk lid that it doesnt bother me. and since i cant hear it rattle im happy with it. btw my trunk like is not deadned at all. bad cuz thats probably why it rattled so much but good cuz even without deadener sealed off it doesnt rattle too much. and as for all the work youre gonna have to do.. thats up to you lol. do you want too? or do you not want too? haha but honestly it was worth sealing off. havent gotten numbers yet but without seal off i was doing 143.3 at 31hz. sealed off i should be doing 145 at 31hz but i havent metered yet.
 
#8 ·
I vote forward and sealed from my own experiences as well. Tested many boxes in my car and that's what I still use to this day.

One thing about sealing off though that a lot of people miss is it's not just sealing around the box. Rear deck, b-pillars, c-pillars (sides of rear window), inside of door sills, top channels above door openings, etc. All those places give pressure channels back into the trunk.
 
#12 ·
I had awesome success with my 2 12's sealed off. And even more success with my single fi sp4 15 sealed off. Like said above tho, it's TONS of work to actually get it sealed off 100%.

Here's a little vid of it Sp4 15 windshield flex - YouTube.

2nd half of the vid is better haha fi sp4 on a dd m3a.
i got lucky with all the work normally involved. my tbird has the fold down seats. so its almost seal off from the factory other than a big perfect hole when you fold the seats down. so i made the box to take up the entire hole, sealed the brackets around it and then sealed around the box. took about a day of small but time consuming work. the subs are spaced away just enough that the seats can fold back up completely covering the subs. not only is it the best sounding set up that i have done in the 89-97 style mn12 t-birds its also about the best looking set up that i have done. if i can ill get some pics to post.
after this build with the subs sealed off from the trunk its likely that any/all future builds will also be sealed off.
 
#11 ·
i have a design allready but my sketchup and my mouse dont cooperate (need a new mouse) can someone sketch it up for me and give me a cut list please it would be greatly appreciated .....box specs 33.5W x 22D x 17H slot port design sub and port forward....port specs 15.5H x 3.75W x 37L 32.5 Physical Length for a 30.7hz tune with 15.2 port area per foot...sub and 1 inch dowel rod support is 0.18 cube...all said and done 3.83 cube @30hz for a PSI platform 2 15...if anyone finds some stuff wrong please let me know this is just a fast design
 
#14 ·
FWD firing and sealed equals less trunk rattle, better numbers/output & just a better sound imho. Just a suggestion build a box tuned to your car's peak frequency have the box pushed all the way back using 8-10" Aeroport. Pushing box back should give you room (depending on box size) from front baffle to the backseat if you wanted to lower frequency on the fly by just adding some pipe:) hope this helps
 
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