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Old 07-23-2014, 01:40 AM
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Default Fiberglass inside of box

I'm looking to fiber glass the inside wall of my enclosure.

Its 40.5 wide, 29 deep, and 36 tall. Everything is double layer birch except baffle is triple layer. Front, sides, port, top and bottom are all rock solid. However my back wall (which i gather is my "loading wall") still flexes at lower frequencies. I added 2 runs of 1" allthread from center of baffle to rear. Tightened down to all hell. helped a ton, but not perfect. Next i added a 2x4 from front to back, as well as going from top to bottom along the back wall. also, much better, but around 30hz i can still feel slight movement.

I have 2 gallons of resin and about 6 yards of 36oz woven mat (extremely heavy stuff) I'm mainly after tips and tricks as well as input if i'm even wasting my time. I just figured i'm losing output from my box flexing.

thanks for your time!
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Old 07-23-2014, 02:12 AM
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is it flexing or vibrating? Big difference...
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Old 07-23-2014, 02:16 AM
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initially i would have def described it as flexing. The way I even noticed it in the first place, my amp rack is attached to the back of the wall, and it was moving. now it barely moves and I have to put my palm against the back wall to feel it. So i know i'm going in the right direction, just wanted to make sure i wasnt wasting fiberglass and resin. next step would be to line the ouside of the back of the wall with 2x4, which i'm trying to avoid as I will have to move my amps to in front of the wall.
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Old 07-24-2014, 07:58 PM
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When you lay down the resin/mat across a large flat surface, lay down nylon rope across the surface. It will act similar to rebar adding strength across the surface.
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Old 07-29-2014, 08:48 AM
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Your very likely losing a bit of output by the flexing. Longterm it can also damage your box, so I'd try and nip it in the bud now, how you do that is up to you..

Bracing works best when it's coupled to a wall that is perpendicular to it.. Very hard to stop a baffle from flexing back and forth when the front baffle is what your connected to. Get some 2x4's and make a T style brace running from the center of each panel. Your sides are smaller and are moving much less and in a totally seperate direction as your back, by coupling to them you can stop the whole thing from moving, since those sides do NOT want to move back and forth, they want to move side to side lol. Imagine trying to pull apart a piece of birch by tugging it apart longways, not going to happen...

I know a lot of guys dont' like bracing since it hurts airflow and in a perfect world I'd agree. However, building 6 layer boxes gets stupid heavy and isnt' practical for daily. (not that wall are all THAT practical to begin with, but still lol)

Fiberglass works, but it's a lot of work to get what you can get out of 15 minutes worth of work with some good bracing.

Last edited by T3mpest; 07-29-2014 at 08:52 AM.
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Old 07-29-2014, 09:44 AM
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I always fiberglass the inside of my boxes. added .3 to the meter when I tested it vs no glass.

Lay the matte down in layers and like SKDooley stated, use nylon rope between layers. Depending on how overboard you want to go, lay the rope down 6-8" apart horizonatal on one matte, then the next matte, lay it 6-8" apart verticle on the next. For even better strength, do that a couple times.
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Old 07-29-2014, 10:10 AM
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I personally feel the fiberglass will do nothing for the flexing issue. Resin might make the surface more rigid but structurally very little will change. I have used schd40 pipe as braces with great success, home depot sizes them for free too. If all sides of the box were screwed into one brace it would keep things more stable. If any panel moved it would need to move the opposite and adjacent walls with it. My wall is gonna look like a damn jungle gym when I'm done with it.
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