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Old 03-24-2015, 11:10 PM
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So I did a quick search and didn't find too much on this stuff. I've seen it used a lot, but never actually tried myself.

Just been thinking about the box for my death penalties and how to port them. From what I've gathered, they love their port, and really need it to keep from ripping the soft parts.

That being said, I've considered the idea of 1 big port instead of multiple little ones.. more efficient.

Just based off of rough calculations from xplicit's app, I've come up with a 41W x 21 T x 25 D, 1^3 ft for displacements, and a 12" sonotube ~20 inches long.

~8.3' net, ~34 hz, ~13."5 port/cube. This will be a dual 15 box, subs up port back loading off of my hatch in the Jeep.

My only thing is, with sonotube that long, surely I would need to strengthen it and probably brace it. Is there anything else I should be looking at besides resin and glass? I had planned on trying to load another square divider in there horizontally to help support the middle and tail end of the tube. I figured it would also help to brace the baffles as well. As for actual bracing I had planned on some threaded rods front to back and possibly side to side if needed.

I know a lot of you guys have experience with this. Any advice is appreciated.
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Old 03-24-2015, 11:16 PM
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I've never had to resin any of my ports... had one 38" long, currently running a pair of them 26" long. As long as you don't try to make them oval shaped you will be fine.
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Old 03-24-2015, 11:20 PM
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I mean think about it... they are designed to hold wet concrete and are sold in 4' lengths. A 4' tall 12" diameter concrete pillar is heavy and when that concrete is wet all the force is distributed to the bottom. Plus it gets waterlogged and still holds the concrete in long enough for it to set up.
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Old 03-24-2015, 11:26 PM
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That was my logic on it, but it never hurts to ask.

I figured if it would hold wet concrete and stay intact, weather wouldn't be an issue. And as far as pressure goes, internally obviously it's very tough. That doesn't always mean the outside will be as strong.

I had planned on just cutting the circle and sliding it in with some PL, and possibly some calk if needed to fill a void should I cut too far off track. with ~13"/cube and a 12" port I don't think flares are really needed, and I'm not in it for the best of show anyway.
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Old 03-24-2015, 11:34 PM
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That will be more than fine. I've run sono with as little as 9" per cube with no port noise at all.. and its a circle, its as strong inside as it is outside. You can use them to leave voids in a verticle pour as well. If you go through the manufacturer instead of Lowes/home depot you can get them in 8' lengths as the shortest and in 1" increments in diameter iirc. They also have 4-5 different grades for different projects.
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Old 03-24-2015, 11:45 PM
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I was looking at that.

The prices don't bother me much though, as I only need ~2ft of it. And 4ft is only $8. Figured i could try to 2 separate ports like you had mentioned in case I get that itch. At the same time I'm only using a 2k on the 2 subs anyway, so I'm sure I might need to change my tuning a when I get my real power back in here.

Thanks for the advice.
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Old 04-12-2015, 01:33 AM
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I just built a box with a 12 inch sono port. 8 cubes. 43w 27d 19h. I made 2 braces that the sono went through and we're as tall as the box. put one in the center, and one on the end. The port is SOLID. I'm tuned to 35 but it plays down to 29hz with authority. 4x sa 12 ultras. Also in a Jeep
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Old 04-14-2015, 10:44 AM
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I'd make sure I brace something that long, but otherwise, it should be fine. I've used several in that length without issue.
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Old 04-14-2015, 10:49 AM
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I would still add a flare to the outside of the port to assist with mounting, plus it will help with efficiency. I personally run flared on the in inner and outside of my sonotube. That's just me though.
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Old 04-14-2015, 10:59 AM
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My only thought on that is I don't know how to do it myself and Chaun is the only one I've seen with flares.

They aren't cheap for a 12" flare.
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