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Old 05-24-2015, 10:46 AM
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Default 6th order box makers i need your help!

Hey guys, noobie here at the forum and I have some questions for all you 6th order box builders. Iam having a hell of a time finding info on how much port area is needed for the low tuned side and the high tuned side. I'm awaiting the arrival of my stereo integrity hst-15 prototype that Nick was so nice enough to part with. Modeling with winisd it seems this woofer would be great in a 6th order 1 to 1 ratio (weird I know but it really doesn't like either side to be greater than the other). For those that dont know its very similar to the sundown zv.4 15 in that it shares the high roll surround and uses the same frame. Motor is also tripple stacked although I dont think its the same. It carries a 1500 watt rms rating that's probably conservative but has a softer spider I believe. So I would imagine it would want the same port area as the zv4 which is 68 Sq. In. But how do I translate that into the 6th order design? Is there a rule of thumb for 6th order port area? Thanks for any help, you guys know your stuff and are as passionate as iam so Hopefully someone can help.
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Old 05-24-2015, 11:59 AM
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The short answer is: as much as you can reasonably fit.

Most 6th orders that I've see have a very small area for the "rear" low-tuned portion; somewhere between 5-8 in^2/ft^3. This is usually necessary because the rear portion is smaller than the front to take advantage of the passband gain. If you have a tiny enclosure and need to tune super-low you just can't get a lot of port area or the port becomes larger than the enclosure. Also in a series tuned 6th the front (higher tuned) port acts as a filter for any noise from the rear port, so audible chuffing isn't really of concern. Ideally, however, you would want as much port area as you can get to increase port efficiency and reduce any possible noise. The "front" chamber port should be around 1/2 the total sd of the driver(s) to start.
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Old 05-24-2015, 12:14 PM
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thanks man, that helps me understand alot better, I forgot to mention this was going in a '05 Tahoe and the box I modeled was going to be 8 sq.ft. With 4 foot per side and was thinking paralleled tuned.its rather big for one driver but I have plenty room. It seems like series is the way to go to get rid of port noise as the low tuned side would be a skinny azz slot port. Now you got my hamster running on the wheel upstairs lol. More modeling to do ��
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Old 05-24-2015, 12:29 PM
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I'd personally shift it to 5/3 larger on the low side single 8 sonotube port tuned around 30 hz and a single 8 sonotube on high side tuned to 55hz
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Old 05-24-2015, 12:55 PM
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ok @dbjunior I was thinking 30hrtz low side 45hrtz high side, curious as to why both chambers would have the same port area? Would this cause the driver to unload? Sorry if my question is a little retarded lol. I know only enough to get me into trouble lol. But i like where your going, has me intrigued...
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Old 05-24-2015, 01:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbjunior View Post
I'd personally shift it to 5/3 larger on the low side single 8 sonotube port tuned around 30 hz and a single 8 sonotube on high side tuned to 55hz

This would be fine for parallel tuning, but for series tune, you basically have the one port from the front chamber to move all the air from both chambers.
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Old 05-24-2015, 04:06 PM
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This would be for paralleled tuned only but they would be same port area but different port area per cu ft with one being 5 cu one being 3 cu. If you look at actual inside diameter of sonotubes the can be as small as 7.5in and as larger as 8.5in. I'd do a little calculating to see what you can make fit where. You could go a little more port area on the high side but a 10 sonotube might be to large. You could use MDF to make your ports but I highly recommend sonotubes because it will be very easy to change tunings to dial it in perfectly.
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Old 05-24-2015, 04:50 PM
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got ya, okay...thanks guys you've been a tremendous help! Now I can go back to the drawing board with more knowledge than I had before and figure this thing out. I hope it comes out bad ass, my other option was to run my current setup of 2 si ht15's and add the HST 15 in the middle, build a new box with all chambers separated of course and run a separate amp for the HST. I'm not sure if they would have any cancellation problems being that the current HT 15's are only 600 watt rated and the HST is 1500 watt rated. But I would think if I ported them all @32hertz there shouldn't be a problem. But that's another question I have lol.
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Old 05-29-2015, 05:16 AM
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I think it'd behoove you to go smaller on the rear chamber instead of 1:1, as in that alignment (and if that sub is similar to a zv4) you don't need 4cf on the rear..

I would start with 4cf gross, and make your rear port 3.450" tall, by 18" wide. Before you say that's too much port area, I do that so I can shove 4x4's in the port as a way to fine tune port area. You'll probably end up with 7-10"sq of port area if your using RMS power or higher.

If you listen to common bass-heavy music, I'd tune no higher than 28hz. Now, that's a long port...But. if you have the port exit on a common wall, it can effectively lengthen your port with no additional displacement. I always have good luck with my front port 90 out from my rear.


And forget all this tune-one-octave-apart BS, you need to have the adjustability to change tuning for your best in-vehicle response.

Front box wise, try to go 5.5-6cf gross, with 130" of port area to start, with the ability to reduce it. I'd tune it to 65hz, and reduce area and increase length as needed....Make it modular, with a slot port as a internal loading wall, if the sub and rear port are on the same plane.

What vehicle? I find, even if you have a dip in, say, 40-55hz, that cabin gain and a sprinkle of EQ can pick up that dip, and give you much better response and musicality. I'd guess you'd end up with 80-100" of port area up front eventually.

Right now I have 1 AQ HDC3-18 recieving 400-ish clamped watts in a series 6th in my Tundra, and it does 148.1 @26hz, [email protected], and [email protected], and plays up to it's cross at 60hz mighty well. It'd play higher, but my "modular" box is poorly braced and resonates awfully bad from 60hz and up.

Good luck. JMO, btw.
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Old 05-29-2015, 05:45 AM
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Pardeus, thanks man i love the info, the more the better. This is going into a 2005 chevy tahoe, I have messed with it on winisd, this driver mimicks the zv4 all the way except it is 2db or mor higher on the graph (which impressed me) and it does get a pretty good dip in the 45ish range. but i was thinking maybe bass boost on my amp at 45hertz would pick this back up? also would i want both ports facing the same ex. rear, or one port up one rear? thanks guys for all the info.
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