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Old 09-24-2015, 04:11 PM
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Default Port question

Was told that I needed 10.6 cubes for 4 12s with a 30X5 port. THing is I don't wanna use that much space on the width. So, if I make 2 Ls do they need to be 5 inches or 2.5 inches to split the difference in each side?
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Old 09-24-2015, 05:25 PM
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2.5 each, they need to add up to the total.
Thing is if this will ~slightly~ alter tuning due to end correction of slots. I'd wait for a slot expert to tell you if it matters much, I'm a PVC guy.
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Old 09-24-2015, 06:29 PM
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Roger that. Just curious caz I'm about to have a lot of time on my hands. Figured I'd throw a box together.
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Old 09-24-2015, 07:30 PM
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Are you planning to keep the ports on the same face as the single port would be? You're going to be adding more width because of the extra port wall needed to make two ports versus the one. Craig is right though; each port would be 2.5" in width and each port would have the same length as the original port length. I don't really like having tall skinny ports, especially if you're going to be running a lot of power through the subs. A single larger port would be better.

edit: about the end correction - it will depend on how the ports are positioned within the enclosure. I wouldn't take any end correction into consideration, as it would only be an inch or two different with two narrow ports like that. If anything always err on the smaller side rather than the larger side when it comes to port, as the cabin usually couples and loads the ports and reduces effective tuning anyway.

Last edited by SPLEclipse; 09-24-2015 at 07:32 PM.
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Old 09-24-2015, 08:55 PM
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10.6 is probably going to be net as well so calculate port volume and sub volume, add that back to the enclosure volume and build it that size. Is there any particular reason you are running that port area and that dimension and style of port due to baffle space or anytjing?
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Old 09-24-2015, 09:00 PM
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And how long were you told to make the port? 16" is around 38hz with 10.6 net and 150" port area
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Old 09-24-2015, 09:02 PM
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You need to lay out your box dimensions plus which way the port(s) and subs are facing. I would always rather go with a single port unless there is a clearance issue or a loading issue.
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Old 09-24-2015, 09:06 PM
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I'm wondering if he meant split it at the rear wall to help even out loading and running center port...
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Old 10-05-2015, 07:45 PM
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Dude from the company said 10.6 included displacement. What I meant was 22X5 and 30 inches long. Subs firing up and port centered ad pointing back.
The 2 in the attachment are what I had in mind...
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File Type: jpg WIN_20151005_174003.JPG (97.0 KB, 11 views)
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Old 10-07-2015, 04:13 PM
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As long as it's 2.5" width on each side of the 5" width "main" area of the port it looks good.

edit: you can shorten the 10" sections by a couple of inches if you need 30" of port length. When the port "turns" you measure through the centerline, and that adds a little extra in effective length. The virtual terminus point on the inside of the enclosure will be slightly longer than the physical terminus as well because of the extended wall.

Effective port length is represented in green in the attached picture.
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File Type: jpg portlength.JPG (126.5 KB, 12 views)

Last edited by SPLEclipse; 10-07-2015 at 04:20 PM.
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