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Enclosure Discussion & Design Construction Help Have questions about enclosure design neeed some help thoughout your build, ask here.


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  #1  
Old 12-19-2009, 03:51 PM
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Ω rise is way too high..
 
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Default Wall Help, Experience Needed

Going to start a new build in my 1996 Honda Accord. Right now I have a box built by Chris Norris in there, doin a 144.1 @ 51hz, and not satisfied, so I'm going for SPL on this one. The current box was built for daily, port on passenger side, both subs and port up. Box is great, but now I'm looking for numbers.

Current Equipment:
2 Ascendent Audio 18" Mayhem, D2 coils
2 Sundown SAZ-3000s
2 XS Power d3100s (at the time it was 4 Batcap 2000s)
Orion 500.4
Infinity Reference coaxial speakers (6x9, 6.5, 5.5)
Earthquake Tweeters
Alpine IVA-W505/p1
.5"x1"x48" copper busbars
Knu Kolossus Flecks 1/0 wire, 2 pos runs, 2 gnd runs
Stinger fuse holders and 300a fuses
stock battery up front
DC Power 250sp alternator

So here is where the fun begins, this is where I need experience. I know I'll get a ton of input from Norris, but I'm just looking for other ideas too, trying to collect all the knowledge about this before I do it.

Front Design:
The design I have in mind is the port behind the driver, and the subs on the passenger side, the problem I have is staggering the woofers will load them differently, and I don't know how thats going to affect me. Another idea is to do like Meade (I'm not a big fan, but it was a cool build) and put the subs on the bottom and port on the top. (I know it's a common thing now, but the first time I saw it was Meade's build) The problem with this idea is that it will sacrifice my numbers, which I really don't want to do.

Interior:
I have heard that when you do a wall like this, you want to keep the box as square as possible. The problem is, to keep it square, I am going to be sacrificing a lot of my room. I wanted to have the box follow the back of the car, like down the rear window, through the deck, into the trunk, and back out, to maximize my room, but that means all kinda of funky angles for the sound waves to move around. so if I build it square, I would add some stuff onto the back and sides for aesthetics.

Material:
I was very interested in doing this entirely in birch plywood, due to the fact that this is going to heavy, and I am trying to minimize damages. Cost is a factor, but I feel like with the money I save by going MDF, I will have to use it anyway to update the suspension! The plus side of MDF is that it is more dense then birch, and I feel like it would be more solid. Ideas?
On the inside of the box, I want to fiberglass, to smooth out the wood and add rigidity. When I glass it, should I do the entire interior of the box, or just go ahead and do edges? On the exterior, I don't like carpet, and Second Skin JUST came out with a really cool box covered sludge, so I think that will help with rigidity too.

Construction:
What glue do you guys think I should use. Using screws on the MDF or birch can split it, and I might use small nails (Norris's Method) with glue, but does that affect the wood at all? I would LIKE to use glue alone, but I'm not sure how it will play out. Ideas?

This is what I got so far, all ideas and opinions are appreciated! Thanks Guys!

-Steve Hoff
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  #2  
Old 12-19-2009, 04:21 PM
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tite bond II in blue bottle for the win. The only wood glue I use. Ive never had an issue with birch splitting with screws as long as you pre-drill every one! And yeah try to keep box as square as possible, 45s, lots of resin for strenth, if you wanna fill the space in the back do some beauty panels and make a nice amp rack in da trunk or something. As stated before, port on drivers side typically puts up da best numbers but its always different what you gonna tune it to?
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Old 12-19-2009, 05:01 PM
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titebond is good stuff, we might also try dome RP4000. its what chris uses and he swears its stronger stuff, but im still doing the research. might use both. I would rather use just glue than anything kinda of screw or nail, especially if its MDF. ill glass it over for strength and do something nice in the trunk. im just gotta find out more about loading these subs differently.
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Old 12-19-2009, 05:01 PM
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not sure about tuning yet, would love to tune like Doug-low, like in the 20-30 range, but to get numbers, i might move it up a bit.
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Old 12-19-2009, 05:13 PM
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So you using the same subs? I'd tune to like 35ish so it puts up good numbers but still gets down low. I'd imagine you'd lose a good bit of SPL by tuning in the 20s unless of course your car peaked that low but with a wall taking up 60-70% of the cabin space I'd imagine you'd peak pretty high like upper 40s. Mind you I have no exp with those subs just saying from my exp.
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Old 12-19-2009, 06:39 PM
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yeah, id imagine that my peak is going to be up there, i just hope its not as high as 51 again!
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Old 12-19-2009, 08:05 PM
 
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for spl your better off higher hz, i would run the port across the top of the box by the roof or in the center of the subs both facing the dash, last time i competed i lost to elma gates by 1db after she had her shit replaced by factory and i ran 3 subs down as they blow and i had no replacements, any how her and i both as most did then idk about now, but we didnt port or tune or x-over the subs ran full range and open air style used the car/van/suv as the box. but in your case i would tune around low mid 40's i think 51 is to high for tuned box.
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Old 12-19-2009, 08:09 PM
 
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and i would also make my ports removable so if you dont like it you can change it, make several ports and swap them in and out til you find the sweet spot, ever setup and every car is different
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Old 12-19-2009, 08:28 PM
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what about aero ports? do you guys think that would be better then a slot port? I am REALLY hesitant to run the port on the top because I'll loose the numbers.
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Old 12-19-2009, 08:32 PM
 
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yea aero port ok if they are like 6 or 8"
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