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  #1  
Old 07-26-2011, 12:58 AM
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Default my setup sucks

i currently have:
2001 hyundai accent hatch back
2-increminator audio dp 21's (dual 1 ohm) subs
1-memphis mojo 4kw amp
2-kenetik 1400 batt.s
1-kenetik 3400 batt
1-nice alpine head unit (can't remember model)
1-iraggi 200a alternater
all 0ga wire (1 run)
currently it's in a ~16cf wall @ ~45hz...
it sucks
i've had it up for about a year and it's beed reliable but i can only get ~148 db @ 47hz.
a while back i did some testing and i remember i was only getting around 1900w out of my amp because of imp rise. a while back someone told me that i probably didn't have enough cabin space for my soundwaves to complete. they suggested that i should tear out the wall and only run 1 subwoofer in a traditional ported box. at the time i didn't want to mess with it but now i'm ready to see some respectable numbers.
what do yall think?
traditional ported box in trunk area?
1 sub?
wired @ 1/2 ohm or 2 ohm?
if i do decide to tear out the wall then i will get a 10" sub and get the res freq without the wall and tune the new box to that number.
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Old 07-26-2011, 01:21 AM
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i have 1 18 with the same amp. in a trunk and im louder and lower... shame...

btw resonant freq wont help much... youd have to test with the same air space as what ure planning. you cant just remove the box then do it. add more power. new box design.
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Old 07-26-2011, 01:29 AM
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You probably would be better off with 2 15s, or something like that. Is 16 cu ft big enough for 2 21s? Not to mention that is a tiny ass car. I don't know a ton about SPL setups, but do walls work in hatch backs I mean if it was totally sealed off from the back it probably would, but it sounds like more trouble than its worth.
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Old 07-26-2011, 01:31 AM
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right now with the wall i peak @ 47hz. when i remove the wall i'll try it again with a single 10", i'm sure it will change. the new box will only take up the trunk area and all my seats and stuff will be reinstalled. i'm planning on woofer up port up flush where the rear deck board that hangs from the hatch would normally be. so would it be ok if i were to place the 10" there where i'm planning for my 21 and baffle the area around it to act as the top of the real box and see what the term lab tells me?
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Old 07-26-2011, 01:33 AM
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sub up, port back.
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Old 07-26-2011, 01:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hornedfrog1985 View Post
You probably would be better off with 2 15s, or something like that. Is 16 cu ft big enough for 2 21s? Not to mention that is a tiny ass car. I don't know a ton about SPL setups, but do walls work in hatch backs I mean if it was totally sealed off from the back it probably would, but it sounds like more trouble than its worth.
your right after talking to nick at ia i was shooting for a 20cf box but after reality set in it was only about 16cf. to make a long story short the car is just too small for 2 21's to be efficient with the knowledge i have.
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Old 07-26-2011, 01:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hornedfrog1985 View Post
sub up, port back.
honestly the wall has been in there so long i really can't remember the trunk area very well but i think that the box will have to be as big as the trunk itself. i didn't think the port would have room to breath back there but i could be wrong.
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Old 07-26-2011, 01:38 AM
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Your imp rise sounds crazy too. I don't know how you got the 1900 watt number, but if its even close it is way too low. I could see 3000 after imp rise, but 1900 seems way too low. If I was you I would pm someone like doug (pioneersaturn) on here to make a design for you. Throw him $5 on paypal and he will take care of you. I just think it's too much in too small of an area.
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Old 07-26-2011, 01:42 AM
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i have it wired @ 1 ohm but after imp rise i believe it was closer to 2.5 ohm. like i said the box was radicaly smaller than planned so none of my original enclosure design charactoristics were in place.
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Old 07-26-2011, 01:51 AM
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your trunk space probably like my Hyundai Accent 1998

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