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General Automotive Chat Discuss the latest auto news, ehancements that you would like to make to your vehicle or if something is broken, need advice on geting it fixed or anything about automobiles in general.


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  #1  
Old 07-14-2009, 04:25 PM
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Default Which Truck?

well right now i am kinda in a sticky situation...

i already have a 1997 chevy s10 with 190k miles on it but it runs great no problems, the back panels on the 3rd door are kinda rusted and need fixed it needs a bed liner the 3rd door handle is broken and needs fixed, not too much wrong with it, we only payed 500 for it

my dad just picked up a nice 1996 chevy silverado with 140k this thing is perfect the only problem with it is it the gas gauge is broken, easily fixable

what should i do? do i take the chevy silverado or keep the s10?

i live in town but i do hunt and both trucks a 4x4s

but if i get the silverado i will have no room for a system....

also i dont really need a big truck but its nice, the s10 will get better milage..

so i would like to have some input
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Old 07-14-2009, 04:32 PM
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Keep the S10 and run it into the ground!
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Old 07-14-2009, 04:38 PM
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i get 23 mpg on the highway with my silverado 18 in town.
i got about 143k on mine now.
Slightly different mpg with the 22"s of course
I would take both trucks.
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2014 Chevrolet Silverado LTZ crew cab
on 22"s
Bose Stock
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Old 07-14-2009, 04:49 PM
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s10 imo
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Old 07-14-2009, 04:53 PM
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S10.

Get her loud.

Those 4.3's in the S10's are great motors, if that's whats in yours. 200k+ miles and they're only about 450 bucks for the rebuild kit, if you can do it yourself.
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Please ladies and gentlemen, don't be ignorant. Before posting, please learn to use the words THEIR THERE and THEY'RE. Thank you.
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Old 07-14-2009, 05:02 PM
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I would just do this once you hit 200,000
have the ac vacuumed
rebuild motor and transmission
have all the wear points in the front end replaced and aligned
(ball joints cv joints and axles)
replace rotors and pads
should cost under $2000 and you will have a brand new running truck
all but the alignment, ac and transmission any body could do their self
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Old 07-14-2009, 10:09 PM
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well we only paid around 500 for it gonna pay about 500-750 to fix it up and get a roll bar and brush guard, my dad is keeping the other truck and selling his everything is working out for the best

and we would be able to rebuild it ourselfs my dad is great with motors
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Old 07-14-2009, 10:11 PM
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I got a thread for your 3rd door handle problem
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Old 07-14-2009, 10:12 PM
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I copied it for you
Make your own replacement 3rd door handle
Hi! I don't post here much I usually just browse, but I thought this might be useful to some of you guys over here. So I thought I would copy my post from s-seriesforum.

Mine recently broke so I got some initiative. I've seen the ones that are one ebay for about $30 so I modeled mine off of that one. It was pretty simple to make using 5/16" aluminum rod. First off your going to want to remove yours by taking out the two T30 torx bolts holding the assembly in the door, the gasket behind it is really sticky so you need to pry it loose. Once that is done you can pull the assembly out just far enough to take an automatic center punch and tap the pin holding the handle in place up from the bottom. After it is up about 1/4" you should be able to pull it out the rest of the way with your fingers. I used the broken pieces of the handle to take measurements for bending the new one. If you use this pic as your blue print you should be all set, you need to copy and paste the link, http://www.geocities.com/inthebatcave/handle.jpg. Before you start bending the rod you are going to want to pound some flats into the ends of the rod, to make drilling the holes for the pin easier and to make the handle fit better.
Once you have it bent to shape you need to drill 13/64" holes in the handle 1" from the outer edge. Now if you bent it correctly you should have one leg of the handle slightly longer than the other, that is the top of the handle. On the top leg of the handle you need to file a 3/8" flat into it. This is were it engages the mechanism inside the door. You should file it deep enough to where it will be just below the hole you drilled for the pin. (again copy and paste the link)http://www.geocities.com/inthebatcave/handle2.jpg
Here is another pic comparing the original with the new http://www.geocities.com/inthebatcave/handle1.jpg
I didn't bother polishing mine but I am sure it would be easy enough if you wanted to.

Now if you compare the remains of the original while you are making yours it is really easy. I made mine in about half and hour, and installing the new handle took all of two minutes using the center punch to drive the pin back in. If your center punch has a replacable tip you should unscrew it and use it as a drift punch so your not deforming the end of the pin. Thats about all I can think of, any questions
Tools needed for removal installation and fab
:ratchet
:T30 torx bit
:Flat head screwdriver to pry loose the assembly from the door. Be careful not to scratch the paint!
: Drill with 13/64" bit
:Vise to assist in bending the rod and aluminum jaws if you have them
:Hacksaw
:small file
:hammer
:automatic center punch
:Small ruler

Supplies needed
:5/16" aluminum rod
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Old 07-14-2009, 10:14 PM
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we are just gonna get another handle off of a s10 in a junk yard or something
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"lipstick on the rims, got them rims blowing kisses"
Quote:
Just want to confes i love ****.


Thats all thanx

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