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Old 03-08-2012, 10:39 PM
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Default Who's familiar with motorization

I've had this idea floating around in my head for a while but not quite sure if I wanna try it.

I'm thinkin once I get my box built, I wanna put a motorized amp rack under it but I'm not too familiar with motorization.

My main question is when doin something like this whats the best way to run the wires so that they move and retract easily and don't get tangled or bound up or pinched


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Old 03-08-2012, 10:43 PM
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name tag/ keyrings with retractable cords
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Old 03-08-2012, 10:46 PM
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It aint to cheap.

This is what my buddy did
Yukon B-Pillar Demo... 48 boston speakers in the cabin - YouTube
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Old 03-08-2012, 10:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 18inchjeepin View Post
name tag/ keyrings with retractable cords
How would this help the wires retract easily?


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Old 03-08-2012, 10:53 PM
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I've seen that video but that did help cause I could try to pick his brain about what he did to keep the wires together and moving smoothly


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Old 03-09-2012, 05:31 AM
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There are a few ways of doing it. The simplest being some wire loom and a large spring. As the rack extends it will extend the spring. And once it retracts the spring will compress pulling the wires with it.
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Old 03-09-2012, 06:10 AM
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motorized drawers are neat but you have to have a clear area in front of it and room behind it for any wires.
you can put the actuator and wires below it to get more room in the drawer but then the whole thing is thicker and takes up more space.
the actuator needs to give even/centered force or it will not extend correctly.
even the best ball bearing slides will bind some during extension. and they aren't cheap.
you will also find the automated controllers are seldom right for the actuators.
some actuators like what Auto-loc sells have hall effect sensors.. but you won't find a good controller for them.. and the actuators controllers are made for are not strong enough to do the job.

I have used a Dakota Digital controller with a Auto-loc actuator. It doesn't work well but it does kinda work. I had to re-wire the actuator because although the plug was the same the pin-out was different and some of the leads were useless.
or, you can just buy some relays and a aftermarket window switch... but that's not "automated"

$115 for the AutoLoc 12"actuator rated for 200lbs - amazon
$110 for the Dakota Digital PAC-3100 controller - SummitRacing.com

Another option is to get a window motor and mono-rail gear out of an old chrysler (they are strong as shit)..
you will have to re-make the mono-rail but you could save space and just use window switches to control it.
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Old 03-09-2012, 06:19 AM
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The actuator shouldn't be hard to find. There are several available with self limiting switches built in or compact for tight location. With some thought and a little testing you don't need to go parallel. You can use pivots and knuckles to get the motion you want.
Like sonic said things have to be pretty precise when it comes to the motion.
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Old 03-09-2012, 06:39 AM
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as far as wire management, there are a lot of flexible looms {back-bone-like}.. you just have to find them.. they are not easy to find.. and they aren't cheap.

I ended up making the loom bundle with zip-ties and then electrical taping 4" wide sections with spaces in between for flexibility.
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Old 03-09-2012, 07:10 AM
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newer minivans with power sliding doors use a plastic 'chain' with wires inside, you could gank those at the jyard and put your own wires in them, they are like a half inch square links chained together
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