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Old 11-30-2014, 09:36 PM
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Default Wall help

Well guys, it's about that time.

I've decided to start planning next summers setup for my 2000 4 dr ex cab ranger.

well i am wanting to do a ported wall with two DD 9518's, and well, I'm not a noob to audio, but i am when it comes to walls and wanted input from those with experience.

I am needing help in the actual construction of the "box".

I was thinking of building the bottom and back part of the wall with a series of 2x4's and an inner liner of mdf to seal it up.

Then maybe a shell/frame of 2x4's for the top/sides?

The amps and batts/caps will go in the bed in a line-x'd box bolted down and an smd TM-1 to control cooling fans

I "should" have enough airspace, but i will figure that out down the road

Any and all input is MUCH appreciated
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Old 11-30-2014, 09:51 PM
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Take a look at the build log section and see how others build there walls in there trucks. 2x4s take up to much space I'd just double layer and brace with mdf/birch.
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Old 11-30-2014, 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by massivespl View Post
Take a look at the build log section and see how others build there walls in there trucks. 2x4s take up to much space I'd just double layer and brace with mdf/birch.
Ok, that sounds much easier than cutting all those 2x4's lol

I will do some creeping on build logs

Thanks!
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Old 11-30-2014, 09:59 PM
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buy either 11-ply or 13 ply plywood and a kreg pocket hole jig. I would avoid 2x4's as they are heavy and take up a lot of space. 2x on double it up all the way around, but make sure to "rabbet" all of your joints so you don't have straight through butt joints. I would do a 3 inch thick face though with minimal interior bacing.

and with those subs, big azz box with a lot of port, minimum 15 sq inches per cube.

Ive built 4 walls in my personal vehicle and helped on about a dozen others, I've learned through many mistakes.
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Old 11-30-2014, 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by btsteinb View Post
buy either 11-ply or 13 ply plywood and a kreg pocket hole jig. I would avoid 2x4's as they are heavy and take up a lot of space. 2x on double it up all the way around, but make sure to "rabbet" all of your joints so you don't have straight through butt joints. I would do a 3 inch thick face though with minimal interior bacing.

and with those subs, big azz box with a lot of port, minimum 15 sq inches per cube.

Ive built 4 walls in my personal vehicle and helped on about a dozen others, I've learned through many mistakes.
Ok so i googled the pocket jig, and that looks like an extremely handy tool!
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Old 11-30-2014, 10:07 PM
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I did a complete 2x4 shell, then filled that with 3/4" MDF.

Yea, Id do it differently next time... Like posted above. Yes, its stout, but it ate up SOOOO much space.

Not to mention, using MDF/Birch is easier and faster than the 2x4s.
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Old 11-30-2014, 10:21 PM
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I may be getting ahead of myself, how difficult would it be to put in two plexiglass windows, in the baffle and back of the wall to still be able to use the RVM?
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Old 11-30-2014, 10:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dangaranga View Post
I may be getting ahead of myself, how difficult would it be to put in two plexiglass windows, in the baffle and back of the wall to still be able to use the RVM?
plexi is flexible - unless its an inch or 1.5" thick plexi $$$$$
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Old 11-30-2014, 10:33 PM
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ahh ok scratch that idea then lol
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Old 11-30-2014, 10:51 PM
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I've built a half dozen boxes, and I built my first wall over the last month or three. I can tell you what I learned, even if it isn't any advanced knowledge.

You will want (I say NEED) the kreg jig. An invaluable tool for this type of construction, especially if like me you are cutting your panels outside of the car then building them together inside the car. Rabbet joints are a great idea for stability, I didn't do it for all my corners because I'm lazy.

2x4's as a shell is definitely overkill, but that's not always a bad thing if you have the airspace to spare. I opted to double layer birch plywood, which afforded a lot more airspace than I needed, so I used 2x4's for some serious interior bracing. Give yourself a few extra inches than you need in front of the wall for seat/subwoofer clearance. Triple baffle if possible, double would be fine with a lot of bracing.

Look into PL premium adhesive. I liked it better than Titebond for some parts, as it isn't runny and is easier to get exactly where you want it to go, as it is used in a caulk gun.

Measure everything a bajillion times, take into account the lowest point of the roof, the narrowest portion between the sides, and the highest point of the floor. It will be much easier to build a flat panel that fits between the narrowest points than trying to build complicated angles around them. Consider fiberglassing over the wheel wells if your wall will be built over them, it's easier than cutting squares or kerfs to to build around the wells and saves you some airspace.

Leave extra space for amps and batteries, this is where I shot myself in the foot and just today figured out the optimal way to fit everything after wrestling with a few hundred pounds of batteries all weekend. If I had left just 4-6" extra clearance for the batts, it would have been easy peasy going in and I probably would have still had enough air.

Port down the middle if it's a daily or demo machine. Build the port as big as possible.

Read over every build log you can find, plan to spend more than you thought you would, don't be surprised if you get stuck and have to spend some time thinking on a problem or changing your plan. Have fun and take pictures to help others. I will be posting some pics when I get them all together.
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