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  #1  
Old 08-13-2015, 11:12 AM
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Default The big 3....anybody experience weird issues?

ok I didn't exactly do the big 3, I did a medium 2, lol. I added a 4g wire to the existing positive out on the alternator to the power junction on my 2005 Tahoe and ran another ground from the alternator bracket to my battery negative. My amp was hitting way harder, but I had some weird stuff happen like one time my rpm gauge started to dance to the bass beat and 2 days later my amp cooked itself. Is the big 3 really worth it? Or should I only worry about the size of the wires going to my amp and just leave the stock alone? Either way a sx 3400 is due to replace the stock, and if money allows another by the amp. Anybody else experience issues with the big three? Or medium 2 Lmao!
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Old 08-13-2015, 12:22 PM
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Ive seen peoples voltage get worse on stock electrical. Its going from a narrow stream to a river in terms of wire size and voltage. It sounds to me that since you opened up the river it was letting everything pull more quickly, and spiked your voltage down in the process.

Did you see anh dimming head lights, a/c bogging down, etc?
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Old 08-13-2015, 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by southernbass View Post
Ive seen peoples voltage get worse on stock electrical. Its going from a narrow stream to a river in terms of wire size and voltage. It sounds to me that since you opened up the river it was letting everything pull more quickly, and spiked your voltage down in the process.

Did you see anh dimming head lights, a/c bogging down, etc?

It seemed to help my lights from dimming, but then the dash lights at night started dimming on that instance that my rpm gauge did that dance. But the amp was seriously banging hard! Harder than ever and it wasn't until I hit a stoplight (voltage drop due to low rpm) that's when my amp went to protect and never came back on. I opened it and found out it got so hot as to un solder the mosfet drive circuit and 2 of them fell out the board. And 3 dead fets as well.
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Current setup: 2 Obsidian Audio 18's with 8 layer aluminum spl coils and spiders
Power is via 2 car audio bargain CAB-1600.1's strapped @1 ohm. ..also in my spare bag of goodies is...
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2005 Tahoe which I nicknamed the william hung.... because she bang! Haha!
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Old 08-13-2015, 01:32 PM
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is your amp + on the battery or the fuse block under hood
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Old 08-13-2015, 01:50 PM
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is your amp + on the battery or the fuse block under hood
I just checked, its on the block that the battery and alterator hook up to... **** does that mean what I think it means....wiering was there when I bought it. Did I send too much voltage directly to the amp?
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Current setup: 2 Obsidian Audio 18's with 8 layer aluminum spl coils and spiders
Power is via 2 car audio bargain CAB-1600.1's strapped @1 ohm. ..also in my spare bag of goodies is...
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2005 Tahoe which I nicknamed the william hung.... because she bang! Haha!
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Old 08-13-2015, 02:18 PM
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its possible the amp is robbing power from the fuse panel (the highest voltage after the alt)

technically speaking it "shouldn't" but the amp could have been the largest draw vs wicking straight from the battery first
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Old 08-13-2015, 03:08 PM
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its possible the amp is robbing power from the fuse panel (the highest voltage after the alt)

technically speaking it "shouldn't" but the amp could have been the largest draw vs wicking straight from the battery first
should I switch it to the battery main? I also thought that it shouldn't be an issue since the battery directly connects to this spot. But maybe the battery acts as a short term regulator?
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Current setup: 2 Obsidian Audio 18's with 8 layer aluminum spl coils and spiders
Power is via 2 car audio bargain CAB-1600.1's strapped @1 ohm. ..also in my spare bag of goodies is...
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2005 Tahoe which I nicknamed the william hung.... because she bang! Haha!
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Old 08-13-2015, 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by williamhung View Post
should I switch it to the battery main? I also thought that it shouldn't be an issue since the battery directly connects to this spot. But maybe the battery acts as a short term regulator?

Very possible. It is always best to go directly to the source imo.
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Old 08-13-2015, 04:05 PM
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leave the stock wire from alt to fuse panel. move the new wire to the battery + and same with the amp + if its not already there
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Old 08-14-2015, 06:35 AM
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I'm not sure if your familiar with newer chevys but its not the fuse box, more like a junction that the power wires all connect to. Just a stud really and the positive battery connects here as well as the alternator wire and the starter wire I believe. I'm suppose to have a internal voltage regulator on the alt. And being I have side connected battery there is really no room on the battery to mount correctly with out doing it getto style and shoving wire in between the battery and screw that bolts the wire down lol. Is it possible that I just made it easier for it to suck drain all the power by adding the extra wire from the alternator to this junction and in turn drop voltage bad enough to fry the amp or did it overpower the amp?
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Current setup: 2 Obsidian Audio 18's with 8 layer aluminum spl coils and spiders
Power is via 2 car audio bargain CAB-1600.1's strapped @1 ohm. ..also in my spare bag of goodies is...
2 Stereo Integrity HT-15's
1 Stereo Integrity HST-15
2005 Tahoe which I nicknamed the william hung.... because she bang! Haha!
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