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  #1  
Old 10-18-2015, 11:21 PM
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Default Got an amp here that goes into protect 30 seconds into a song

Okay, so I have 2 PPI BA7000.1d's, one of them wired at .5 ohms, the other 2 ohms. The one wired at .5 couldn't be performing better, delivering all the power I need and more, without so much as a hiccup. The other one, however, goes into protect after 30 sec- 1 min of playing it at about 2/3 volume. If I shut it off and on, it'll start playing again for a few seconds and then go into protect again.

So, lets get the obvious problems out of the way: There is no short, it's properly grounded, the RCAs are brand new and well tested, and the one running at .5 gets far hotter than this thing ever does yet keeps playing.

According to the manual/online documentation, the amp offers short circuit, overcurrent, and thermal protection, which tells me that, if it's not the first two, it's gotta be going into thermal protection. My first thought was that if the temperature sensor was measuring the heat of one of the transistors, replacing the thermal grease behind the transistors would help. Then, I got it open, and found that the thermistor (thermal sensor) was instead monitoring the temperature of the heatsink.

So, if the amp is indeed going into protect mode because it thinks it's too hot, the issue is with the thermistor- it must be far too sensitive. Now, I'm debating whether or not to just replace the thermistor with a regular resistor or not, so i can hook it back up and see if the thermistor really was the issue or not.

It's worth mentioning at this point, this thing doesn't have a warranty, so it's up to me to fix it. Any ideas of what this problem could be caused by before I get the soldering iron out?
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  #2  
Old 10-19-2015, 03:47 AM
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Have you checked voltage at the amp under load?
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Old 10-19-2015, 08:18 AM
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I got a 320 amp alt under the hood, the voltage never drops under 13v while the car is running. Besides, that wouldnt explain why the other amp is running at 100%.

Anyway, I ended up pulling the thermistor about an inch away from the heatsink so it couldnt thermally shutoff anymore, then I put it back together and hooked it back up to the car.

SAME. GODDAMN. THING. HAPPENS.

I'm out of ideas. What else could possibly cause an amp to go into protect after a few minutes of usage? And what else would cause it to keep going into protect after you restart it? What can I do to get this thing to start working again, besides just buying a new one?

This is a really shitty time for it to break, too, because, if you read my previous thread, you'll know I just finished building my first serious subwoofer, and I really have not gotten used to how loud it is yet. When this amp works, the system is loud enough that my shirt starts rippling. Which is freaking awesome, and I'm frustrated to all hell that I can't experience that for more than 30 seconds at a time.
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Old 10-19-2015, 09:30 AM
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Each amp independently fused? If so replace the one in question. Sounds like a connection issue. Have you tried to swap the 2 amps to rule out wiring?
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Old 10-19-2015, 09:24 PM
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^^agreed. Just because the charging system is up to par doesn't rule out a loose connection at the fuse holder or ground, or even a small short in the speaker wire somewhere could cause intermittent protection. I'd swap the amps over like Todd says and see if the issue follows the amp or not.
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Old 10-20-2015, 12:34 AM
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Precision Power PPI BA7000.1D 7000W Monoblock Class D Car Amplifier

Wondering why you got 2 of the same amps running 2 diff impedances?

One amp running .5 ohm load quaddruples your chances of getting hotter than reg 2-4 ohm load on an amp....it's just the name of the game.
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Old 10-20-2015, 01:41 AM
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Guy i know that was running 2-ba7000 strapped at 2ohm had both his amps go up in smoke...its not sounding kike these ppi ba series amps arr very reliable :/. Nothing like their black ice line previous bk1800.1 great amp
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Old 10-20-2015, 01:57 AM
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Why are you running these two amps at different ohm loads? Different sub stages?

Definitely try swapping them and see what happens. If the same amp keeps protecting then it's the amp. If it doesn't then probably a wiring or short issue.
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Old 10-20-2015, 06:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boomintahoe View Post
Precision Power PPI BA7000.1D 7000W Monoblock Class D Car Amplifier

Wondering why you got 2 of the same amps running 2 diff impedances?

One amp running .5 ohm load quaddruples your chances of getting hotter than reg 2-4 ohm load on an amp....it's just the name of the game.
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Originally Posted by SINTORMAN View Post
Why are you running these two amps at different ohm loads? Different sub stages?

Definitely try swapping them and see what happens. If the same amp keeps protecting then it's the amp. If it doesn't then probably a wiring or short issue.

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Old 10-21-2015, 10:55 PM
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Quote:
Wondering why you got 2 of the same amps running 2 diff impedances?

One amp running .5 ohm load quaddruples your chances of getting hotter than reg 2-4 ohm load on an amp....it's just the name of the game.
Quote:
Why are you running these two amps at different ohm loads? Different sub stages?
The sub I built has D1 voice coils, the RF P3 next to it has D4. I guess I could have wired them at 2 ohms each, but that would mean less potential power, but mostly, to be honest, I just wanted to see if one of these amps would really play at .5 ohms. I mean, it's a 200$ amp that also claims to be 7000 watts. Why would I believe it could run at .5? Shockingly, it totally does.

Anyway, an update on my relentless tinkering: I switched the custom sub from parallel to series to get 2 ohms, then put that in parallel with the RF P3 to get 1 ohm, then hooked it up to the "working" amp so I could play both subs, albeit at the cost of a little bit of power. And I'll be damned if. 10 minutes into playing my Decaf's Epic Instrumentals CD, the same ****ing thing happened, this time with the amp that lasted a year playing at 1 ohm. The only things that changed since my last working setup and this one is one of the subs and the fact that I'm now using only one run of 4 gauge (don't judge) to connect the amp to the battery/ground, whereas before I was using 2 runs. I was planning on adding another 2 runs for the second amp, but I didnt have any fuseholders, all my .5" drill bits were dull, and I'm just too lazy to buy new ones unless I have to, which it looks like I do.

So, in light of this recent news, here's what we can conclude: Either something really weird is going on with the new sub and that's whats causing the problem, or I'm just kinda shitty at wiring. Seeing as how I built both of those things with basically no real experience under my belt, both scenarios are likely.

I am surprised, though. What am I counting, 3 people who have, quite possibly, nailed it on the head? Great minds think alike indeed. Anyway, re-wiring the car/amps is the next thing on my to-do list. Thanks for the help guys.
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