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Old 03-18-2016, 06:39 AM
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Default grounds spots for sedans

What are the best spots? seems like the largest single piece of metal is in my wheel well, was thinking of grounding to that and making jumps from that to other spots in the trunk... ideas?
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Old 03-18-2016, 07:14 AM
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Usually by a seat belt bolt works well
They are connected to sturdy pieces and have some meat to grab
I just ran a neg back up front when I was running more power
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Old 03-18-2016, 08:07 AM
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my bolts are unaccessable, and layered to other pieces that all are painted. i need to stay in the trunk or can jump down to underneath the car
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Old 03-18-2016, 11:09 AM
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Strut tower bolts and seat belt bolts are the 2 best spots in the rear of unibody cars. If you can't access either one, I would just find the thickest piece of sheetmetal and test it with the DMM
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Old 03-18-2016, 12:39 PM
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I drilled a hole in the floor of the trunk and went straight to the cars frame when I grounded my batteries, and grounded the amp to the inside of the trunk were the hinges come down, then jumped from there to were the seat belt bolt on.
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Old 03-18-2016, 12:50 PM
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Every car is different, I've added so many new wires over the years and changed grounding locations so many times I know where all the good grounds are in my boom mobile. And just bc you can read low resistance doesn't mean it's the best ground.

Straight to frame and/or a long run grounded to the alt. That's usually the best way. No sheet metal. Strut towers count as frame. But not having both can be costing you power:

Four 1/0 grounds straight to chassis:


With four 1/0 runs tied in front to back:


Granted it's only two group 34 batteries running one 20.1 at .25 ohm but there's a big voltage drop with less/worse grounds


No clip, no boost, who uses that anyway
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Old 03-18-2016, 04:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by So Low View Post
Every car is different, I've added so many new wires over the years and changed grounding locations so many times I know where all the good grounds are in my boom mobile. And just bc you can read low resistance doesn't mean it's the best ground.

Straight to frame and/or a long run grounded to the alt. That's usually the best way. No sheet metal. Strut towers count as frame. But not having both can be costing you power:

Four 1/0 grounds straight to chassis:


With four 1/0 runs tied in front to back:


Granted it's only two group 34 batteries running one 20.1 at .25 ohm but there's a big voltage drop with less/worse grounds


No clip, no boost, who uses that anyway

That's a great post, thanks for taking the time to do it!!!!
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Old 03-18-2016, 04:45 PM
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sheet metal is fine for small amps and loads, and probably ideal in most vehicles, maybe not cars. seems like older vehicles, especially trucks, are made with thicker gauge steel

over 200a is when id seriously recommend a dedicated ground run
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Old 03-18-2016, 04:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mitchell0715 View Post
sheet metal is fine for small amps and loads, and probably ideal in most vehicles, maybe not cars. seems like older vehicles, especially trucks, are made with thicker gauge steel

over 200a is when id seriously recommend a dedicated ground run
Im gonna be around 800 to 900 amps I'm guessing, lol my 4chs are prally around 200 by them selfs
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Old 03-18-2016, 06:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris McNeeley View Post
Im gonna be around 800 to 900 amps I'm guessing, lol my 4chs are prally around 200 by them selfs
Call up electron beam and get some 4/0 ofc. $2.80 a foot. Two runs of that front to back will do. You can run the grounds under the vehicle wherever you can without the same concerns about positive runs. Really doesn't take too long.
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