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  #1  
Old 08-25-2011, 09:57 PM
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hey bro cant seem to send you a message since nobody wants to fix the sites PM's
my number is 231-920-4291
got a ? about the subs that you built for Stylez12321, call me asap if you can and if anyone sees this and knows him please have em give me a call asap
thanks alot and sorry to put something ridiculous in this section
but seeing as how PM's ALWAYS get that error.....
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Old 08-26-2011, 06:15 AM
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What is your question? Maybe I can help.
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I think it's probably because that sub is not moving enough to allow it to cool.. Id turn the gain up a bit so it moves more for cooling reasons.. That's why it's hard on subs to be underpowered..
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Old 08-26-2011, 07:41 AM
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Thanks bro I hope so

I got two of those 12's from stylez12321 with the type R motors and baskets and the new softparts, my problem is when I connect them to my amp I can barely get either one to move an their fairly quiet unless I crank the volume up to 30 or so (this is free air but I know my limitations on it as well so I don't go too hard!)
When I reach volume 30 or so the sub will start to (excur?)
Alot more like it should and I can tell it's louder but right about then is when it starts to spark? it looks like it sparks right at the leads, or at the tinsels or something!
and then I shut it down really quickly, it also wil have a burning smell but the sub will still play fine and still is super stiff on the suspension
JP (stylez) said the tinsels are super conductive and need to be heat wrapped and that's prObably whats causing it, does that sound about right? Or do I have a different problem here? Thanks in advance
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Old 08-26-2011, 02:04 PM
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The cones used for those re-cones were old PG Xmax cones. They are made from true carbon fiber(which is conductive) if the leads touch the cone THE WILL ARC! Trust me I blew 2 small holes in the ones I had back in the day. I couldn't figure out for the life of me what caused it till I pulled the sub and relized it was exactly were the leads were. I ended up heat shrinking them and had no problem afterwords.
As for output. I"m no tsure on that one. The re-cones were paralleled at the coil. Since the Alpine basket has the leads on one side foreverbumpin chose to wire them in parallel to make it easire for the leads to be attached to the basket. So essentially they are single 2 ohm VC's.
Do you have a meter to put on and check the resistance?
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I think it's probably because that sub is not moving enough to allow it to cool.. Id turn the gain up a bit so it moves more for cooling reasons.. That's why it's hard on subs to be underpowered..
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Old 08-26-2011, 02:12 PM
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Ok I just bought heat shrink tubes to wrap the leads or tinsels up, hopefully that takes care of that
Now for resistance, I DO have a dmm
Is that all I need?
and how do I check it exactly just put the pos in the pos and neg into neg lead?
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Old 08-26-2011, 02:58 PM
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It doesn't matter which lead goes to which terminal. Just set the meter to read Ohm's and see what they come out to. It should be right around 2 ohms maybe slightly more. If you have anymore questions shoot me a PM. Mine should be working.
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I think it's probably because that sub is not moving enough to allow it to cool.. Id turn the gain up a bit so it moves more for cooling reasons.. That's why it's hard on subs to be underpowered..
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  #7  
Old 08-26-2011, 04:38 PM
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ok thanks man
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