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Deadening the trunk lid

1K views 2 replies 3 participants last post by  lunchbox 
#1 ·
Today is the day I finally receive a giant box of stinger roadkill sound deadening material.

The box is giant, no kidding, 40 pounds of pure goodness



Now that I have the golden goose I wanna milk it for all it's worth. So my question is how would you guys deaden this trunk lid right here that i'm about to post.

As you can see there's a lot of little holes that are unmanageable with a roller or tennis ball. I was thinking CCF for metal on metal and insulation stuffed into the other gaps.



also there's some more holes on the top of the trunk lid, (license plate side) but those are a lot more manageable to fit CLD tiles and a roller into.

Is it the best to lay the deadener as close to a full sheet as possible or do I cut it to smaller squares and fill in by patches?

I was thinking to cover the holes with a huge sheet of deadener by it's then probably MLV over that.





Oh yeah also has anyone mastered sunroof deadening? I don't mean to stop flexing or anything but the **** thing slaps the frame of the car causing a horrible noise. I am already gonna experiment with CCF but I want the sunroof to still function and open up. Tips r appreciated yo
 
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#3 ·
I prefer to use a big socket and some gloves, don't forget gloves. Ha ha I like to cut the panels into strips and squares that are manageable. I don't think there is much or any difference with using whole pieces over smaller cuts. On the big holes I cut out some thin sheet metal to cover it and double layer them. I've had the bass blow out deadener patches in the past. Never had it blow out the sheet metal patches.
 
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