This is a section completely devoted to fiberglassing questions people have or helpful tips and tricks. Anybody who has a question about a fiberglass project or anything post it here and somebody will chime in and we will all try and help you out as much as possible.
on another note ......during researching this i have also seen resin soaked rope used as reinforcement on panel pieces. i could not say how effective it would be in an enclosure but seemed like a smart little trick.
I'm wanting to glass the bottom of my hatch to make it the bottom of the sealed box of a 4th. Is there a good way to secure it to the metal or do I prep the metal at all , and what would u recommend I use mat wise. Thanks and sorry for the questions this will be my first real glass project.
first off i would recommend working on something small to familiarize yourself with using fiberglass. and ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS wear a mask....organic filter for using the glass and at least a dust mask while sanding.....I've seen too many videos where the person doing the demo isn't wearing any breathing protection. fiberglass resin and the other chemicals aren't good for you, nor the dust......by all means be safe..
the best looking system is of no use if your mind turns to mush
if you intend to make the box a permanent part of the car than you would sand the area clean.....no paint. that will allow for the fiberglass to adhere to the existing metal.
in most cases people make them so that it can be removed by laying out something that will allow for the fiberglass mold to be released from the area. aluminum foil and a release agent, even using painters tape and plastic will allow you to mold the piece then remove it later.
as for the release agents used someone should be able to give more information on the type of products to use.
It's become second nature for me. Especially if your pulling a mold from a trunk or a layer of resin inside a box. Heck even when I'm out in the open I still wear it.
Not to mention I don't get light headed or headaches anymore when working.
I can see if someone only does a couple projects in their garage not getting one(although I would suggest one anyway) but for someone who does this for a living or is a heavy fabricator its a must IMO!
Looking to resin and fiberglass the inside of an enclosure. I have been recommended a couple different brands but don't know which would be best bang for the buck. Let me know what you guys think of these.
I read alot of people recommend uscomposites, while searching their site I found this epoxy resin. Sounds like more of what I'm looking to do.
Looking to resin and fiberglass the inside of an enclosure. I have been recommended a couple different brands but don't know which would be best bang for the buck. Let me know what you guys think of these.
I read alot of people recommend uscomposites, while searching their site I found this epoxy resin. Sounds like more of what I'm looking to do.
Well im doing my doors and apillars as we speak, and i ordered a gallon of the Polyester resin from US composites. I got the "General Purpose Layup Resin". It has done what i needed it ot do and it was about 25 dollars cheaper per gallon than autozone and about 15-19 dolars cheaper than Home depot or lowes. U wont be dissapointed with Us composites. I also got 10 yards of their '12" wide-1.5 oz fiberglass chop matte tape. Talk about convienant to use!!!! This stuff is amazing!! U can just cut a piece and use it without havinh all that shittyy lookin fuzz all around your piece.
If they are selling you resin for $95, it better be in a 5 gallon pail.
Look at the fiberglass resin suggested above from uscomposites. Or you can buy a gallon from Lowes if you need it immediately. If you wanna strengthen the joints of the enclosure, then you should add 2-3 layers of mat to each seam. You should have about 2-3" of mat on each side of the joint. It must be free of bubbles or your wasting your time. You can brush resin onto the rest of the wood inside if you like. It will gain you about .2db of unrestrictive air flow assuming it is laid down smooth. You will gain absolutely no strength benefit from doing this. Pretty much pointless unless your chasing every last number for burps or you just like wasting money.
I gotcha, so I should pretty much just focus on the joints of the box for added strength? I figured resining the whole thing would make it more dense but it sounds like it won't do much.
Which number resin would you recommend from uscomposites? Anything left over will be used for some A pillars, so hopefully it will work well for that.
I gotcha, I heard that chopped mat is a little harder to work with but is stronger. Would you recommend this 3oz cloth instead? Or is chopped mat superior?
I gotcha, I heard that chopped mat is a little harder to work with but is stronger. Would you recommend this 3oz cloth instead? Or is chopped mat superior?
I have tried the 1.5 oz chop mat tape that they hav e. The 12" wide tape is awesome!!! HYou get 2 clean edges to use in stead of having to pull stuff apart, u just cut the lenght u need and u have straight edges to work with. US composites FTW!!
Hmm didn't know that, thanks for the info. I saw the tape too but didn't know what that's all about. Just wanting the easiest materials to work with for my first time.
So 1.5oz chopped mat, that way I can split it if necessary. Is any of it stuck together or is each strand completely individual? Seems like that would get messy lol.
Hmm didn't know that, thanks for the info. I saw the tape too but didn't know what that's all about. Just wanting the easiest materials to work with for my first time.
So 1.5oz chopped mat, that way I can split it if necessary. Is any of it stuck together or is each strand completely individual? Seems like that would get messy lol.
Thats exactly why i was recommending getting 3 or 4 yards of the tape mat. It cuts easily with scissors and u get good straight edges to work your edges of your project with./ No mess i swear. Imean, get some chop mattg, but get u a few yards of the tape as well
Excellent. U will be happy with 3 yards of the tape. Nice clean edges, and no, the matt wont be as easy to cut as the tape. I mean, for $1.15 a yard, i dont think $3 bucks and some change will make or break him , and he will have awesome edges to work with
I don't have any trouble with my edges and I tear all my matte. Tearing helps the layer form a coheisive bond without having a lump where two seams meet. I always over lay all my edges to ensure strength all the way around the part.
I don't have any trouble with my edges and I tear all my matte. Tearing helps the layer form a coheisive bond without having a lump where two seams meet. I always over lay all my edges to ensure strength all the way around the part.
Basing my response loff of what he said he was using it for, i recommended something that alreadsy had factory edges. If he ws just going to be using it for seams inside the box, this tape would have been the best possible method to use would be using the tape. Im not disputing the knowlendge or fiberglassing experience of yourseld or epicente jon. m I was simply stating that the tape matte has an already sharp straight edge, that would be perfect to use over box seams.
Now that e klnow exactly what hes planing to dol, i agree 100% that glass inst even needed. Maybe a little resin if thats what he wants to do, but even then, im not sure thats gonna help anything
Makes sense, like I said, never glassed before. It will mainly be for the box. I am going to give both a shot and see how I like it. Get some experience, and then attempt some A pillars
What are you doing to the box? Are you building it from glass or just glassing the wood?
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