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Practice makes perfect

4K views 27 replies 7 participants last post by  DinkaDank 
#1 ·
So I'm currently scrapping around on a 93 accord lx standard. Got together a little something to get some bass going.

Pioneer deh 14ub
Boss 6.5 and 6.9 speakers
Hifonics brz1200.1
2 American bass xd 844

The front doors and rear deck is a 5.25" stock I believe. And when I got the car the 6.5s were jammed in the back with speaker wires wrapped around the terminals. The guy cut out 1" tweeter holes in the door panel itself and left them empty.
So I went out and bought some cheap boss chaos speakers, speaker wire, 4 gauge install kit from frys electronics in town and came home. So far I've made speaker adapter rings out of plywood for both the doors and rear deck. Still have the glass the rear deck to make it stock lookingish.

I have the dash taken out, back part of the console taken out, and I'm thinking of making a custom dash to practice with fiberglass on a future build. I was wondering with the stock location for the radio/lighter/cup holder combo how would I take all 3 and do something custom? I want to have the radio tilt up a lil bit but instead of the slide out function of the cupholders I just want to make it a more permanent thing. Been driving around looking at a broken dash for a couple months and some ideas would help. Once I roast enough bowls I'll get out there and take some pictures.


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#3 ·

Where I want to fabricate something


Behind the shifter


Under the hood, top post terminal with copper lugs


The mounting and speaker ring for the 6x9s, I had to lift up that much for the bottom magnet to clear the rear deck, bolts into factory spots and sturdy as shit. Just gotta glass it.


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#4 ·
seems like there is plenty of room to mess with for your hu. seems like you already have an idea how to do some glass work by looking a the 6x9 setup. get more rips in ya and get creative:bigsmoke::bigsmoke::bigsmoke: that's what I do:D
 
#5 ·
I have zero glass skills, I know the mock up, but haven't actually done a dash mock up so I'm confused on what to do because I'm trying to integrate it from the factory dash.....



I want to get rid of the bottom portion. I don't know where to start.


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#7 ·
like 209 said, just cut that shit, halve the battle is getting the balls to stop staring and make the first cut so theres no turning back. glass is fun to work just make sure your resin is fresh and dont add to much hardener. make a few small sample batchs first so you get use to the amount of time for play before the batch hardens, and yes, get high as shit because thats how i got all my cool ideas
 
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#9 ·
Well I'm shitty on taking pictures and I'm just trying out a lot of things but I've made a new box for my subs, a amp cover for my amp and I'm in the process of the faceplate/cupholders/center console. I'll post pics of my box and shit I got so far tonight after I shower or tomorrow morning before I wore the subs up. Big thing nobody I heard suggest but works wonders....flex seal. Any discrepancies in the box literally taken care of with a spray or two, and it's sandable.


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#15 · (Edited)
I guess let me phrase the question better.

So that being said I'm trying to find a speaker set up (qty wise) that will give me a final load of 4ohms. If I have 16 SVC 4 ohm speakers hooking up to a 2 channel amp, what would my wiring look like? I'm putting 8 speakers (can put more to achieve desired load) in each front door that I'm fabricating right now, I just want to make sure I'm getting the right impedance speakers to match my load the whole way around the car. I'm OCD like that, best wish is hitting a 4 ohm load all the way around, 2 is the most I'll go down just because it's a personal thing. And when I say that I mean all my amps are pushing @4 or @2 ohms. Appreciate all the help. I literally suck at searching and have tried for months to research and analyze but unless I see it done or get shown it doesn't make sense or stick until I do it at that time if that makes sense at all.


I'm looking at wiring diagrams that give me 4 speakers



In this example it shows a 4 ohm final load, in that example can I just use multiples of 4 to keep my load at 4?

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#16 ·
I have a calculator in google sheets i wrote for this but im having a hell of a time getting a link to share it outside of my gapps organization. That said, you want 4ohm load on each of those two amp channels? When i get near a computer im sure i can get you a copy of that file. I tried exporting as excel format which it did, but i wasnt allowed to attach to my post

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#17 ·
Yes I'm looking for 4ohm loads on each channel. Anywhere from 8-16 speakers to each channel all drivers are 4ohm SVC. I'm really bad at articulating what I'm trying to say so please tell me what is confusing and I'll do my best to clear it up. I appreciate it man.


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#18 ·
What you're trying to do seems to exceed the capabilities of my calculators since you're set on the coil impedance and svc, which is OK. So ill take a different approach.

I would hook up 4 svc in series to show a 16 ohm load. Take 4 of these groups of 4 and wire them all to the amp in parallel, the 4 16ohm parallel loads will show a 4ohm final load.

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#19 · (Edited)
So in that sense
if I added more speakers, to still achieve the 4 ohm load I'd have to add 4 more drivers correct?
In this case the final series load is 32 so that when I parallel wire the other side it comes down to 4.

So forth and so forth correct?

Meaning I'd have to go with 4/8/16 drivers per channel.

Reason I'm asking is I'm going a different route than I've seen most, I'm getting drivers that are efficient at nominal volumes, and then loading up in the drivers so that I don't have to put a lot of power into one driver. Yes it will take a lot of space. I was thinking since I had a 4 door accord, I'd do 4 4" and 5.25" speakers for the doors, so 8 drivers per door, then on my rear deck was going to go either 16 6.5" midbass speakers or 8 8" midbass speakers, and my subwoofer is going to be the AB HD10. My goal is to have almost equal speaker reproduction as bass reproduction that the higher frequencies aren't as pesky or over/under bearing from the bass. Plus I wear hearing aids so "feeling" the music has more standing than "hearing" it. I've been deaf since I was a baby so I'm used to it by now.

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#20 ·
So in that sense if I added more speakers to still achieve the 4 ohm load I'd have to add 4 more drivers correct, so that the final series load is 32 so that when I parallel wire the other side it comes down to 4. So forth and so forth correct?


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Not exactly. If you have 8 4ohm subs wired in series to show a 32ohm load, then add another 8 wired in series as a parallel load to the first set, you would have 16ohm final load.

You want the series banks all matching. Like if you have 4 speakers wired in series, you want all the other parallel loads to match so all the speakers get the same distribution of power.

To get your series load, speaker * 4ohm
So lets do 5 speakers, 5*4=20.
Now say we want total number of speakers on the channel to be 15.
15/5 =3. Thats 3 banks of 20ohm in parallel.

Take your 20ohm/3 banks of subs wired in parallel, you get a 6.67(repeating) load to the amp.

Can you tell me what amp is running these and what the ratings are on the amp?

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#23 ·
And the speakers are all rated at 20-35 watts rms for the mids and highs, which is what I hope to aim for is less stress on the speakers meaning less distortion at higher volumes, more airspace is being moved so at the same time I'm hoping as a deaf person not only will I be able to hear, but feel it in my body better without it being too harsh, I've been in cars with 2 sets of components playing and it hurt my ear and head just from all the power screaming through 2 sets of components. The midbass speakers are rated @90watts rms. Which is why I might cut it down to 8 for the other 2 channels, If it's coming along to my liking I might beef up the amps. Idk if anybody went the whole feel direction because deaf people really don't play music a lot lol....


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#25 ·
Both ply and MDF will swell and deform if they get in contact with water, but generally ply is much better than MDF for something you need to hold up to the elements. Either way I'd seal it up with some resin just to waterproof it. The ply will also weigh a lot less and stay a little more flexible rather than creasing like cardboard if you need to bend it a little.

If the ply is chipping you probably need to use a fresh blade to cut it. Make sure you're not using OSB or something.
 
#28 ·
So got an update.

Just got done drafting a deal with Russel Wong of Shok Industries. So now I'm an authorized seller of Shok products. Now I have a means of income and if I get buyers, I can build. So if you or anybody you know wants information and prices let me know. And if any shops want to deal give me a message and we can talk.


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