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  #1  
Old 05-31-2013, 01:29 AM
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Default cache cloc'd, pac sni-35, fierce FILC20v2, optimus crossover, 2 amps

Not sure if this belongs in SQ or general, but I figure since I'm trying to set it up right and what not, that it would be better here.

Anyways, I have a cache cloc'd, a pac sni-35 and fierce FILC20v2

The latter 2 seem to be identical...

Right now I have the cache split at the RCA outputs with 2 sets of RCA's to the sub amp and crossover.

I want to keep it the same, but I am gonna be using the mid output on the crossover for the doors instead of running them off the head unit.

What would be the best way to accomplish this?

How can I test each device for the best clarity or clean signal?

I figure I would use 2 of them. Probably use the cloc'd on the sub amp (in sig, from what I looked up/read it can take a decent amount of RCA voltage?)

As of now, I only have a clamp meter and fluke t5-600

I was thinking of getting the ds nano, but as I've said in the thread about it, there are mixed reviews and I'm not sure if it's something I should get, having no experience with an o-scope.

Side note: is there any way to determine how much RCA input voltage a crossover/amplifier can take without looking it up?

I got these for under $9 shipped for both. I don't need the RCA input on the cache cloc'd so I figure I can sell that one, as it seems that's the only feature it has that these dont

Side note 2: I don't really care for balance or fader function. In fact I HATE it when a song purposely put sound in only one of the speakers.

Side note 3: I know this is kinda ghetto, but I need to run the speakers mono in parallel so I don't have to run more speaker wires or RCA's. So basically, the mids will be on one channel from the amp, and the tweeter will be on another. They are all single 4 ohm, and the amp is 2 ohm stable so everything will be sharing the power of 2 ohms, which I think is only a little bit more than 4 ohms, but it will work out so that each one will be getting less than if I just powered each individually from one channel. (which is safer)

Any input appreciated.





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Last edited by graham; 05-31-2013 at 01:32 AM.
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  #2  
Old 06-01-2013, 01:44 PM
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Ok so i pretty much got the speaker wiring/rca/crossover wiring figured out

Just need suggestions on comparing the LOC's

Also won an sni-15 for like $4 shipped on ebay to compare.
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Old 06-01-2013, 10:11 PM
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Those look identical to me. The only way to tell if you have a clean (not clipped) signal is with a scope. You can probably get close enough by ear.

You can measure voltage by setting your meter to a/c voltage and probing the outputs while you play a test tone through the headunit. Red on the center pin and black on the outer shield. Do NOT short these together. This isn't going to be exact, but it's a good way to test between the two to see a difference.

I'm not sure what you're talking about in "side note 3". Power to the speakers will depend on how you bridge you channels and how many speakers you have. Looks like you have it figured out though, lol.

Side note 4: Looking to trade the cashe clok'd for anything? I'm super broke and got effed over on ebay for a couple line drivers so I'm still looking.
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Old 06-01-2013, 10:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SPLEclipse View Post
I'm not sure what you're talking about in "side note 3". Power to the speakers will depend on how you bridge you channels and how many speakers you have. Looks like you have it figured out though, lol.
I mean, if I hooked each tweeter up to one channel, they would get 60w rms. If they amp does 60w rms @ 4ohms, and 80 or even 90 @ 2ohms, then they would be getting 40w rms if I bridged them together (in parallel, amp would see a 2 ohm load, each tweeter is 4 ohms), which I think is better, considering they are 50w rms (and like I said, I HATE when songs separate the left and right so this way would be more to my liking anyway)

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Originally Posted by SPLEclipse View Post
Side note 4: Looking to trade the cashe clok'd for anything? I'm super broke and got effed over on ebay for a couple line drivers so I'm still looking.
Of coarse man What ya got?

I don't like/need the line driver function on it anyway. I just need the LOC function, which these 2 $5 units should handle.
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Old 06-01-2013, 11:31 PM
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Ok....I see what you're saying about the tweets now. I can't imaging running in mono, but whatever floats your boat!

I've got some Bravox 6.5" mids, some Aura NS3 3" mids, some smallish Harmon-Kardon computer speakers, some USB hard drives, some pioneer 6.5" coaxis, an autotek fx5a (5 way active crossover..but one of the tweeter channels doesn't work), some miscellaneous wire, probably more stuff, that's just what's sitting next to me, lol.
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Old 06-02-2013, 03:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SPLEclipse View Post
Ok....I see what you're saying about the tweets now. I can't imaging running in mono, but whatever floats your boat!

I've got some Bravox 6.5" mids, some Aura NS3 3" mids, some smallish Harmon-Kardon computer speakers, some USB hard drives, some pioneer 6.5" coaxis, an autotek fx5a (5 way active crossover..but one of the tweeter channels doesn't work), some miscellaneous wire, probably more stuff, that's just what's sitting next to me, lol.
basic specs on the bravox, usb hard drives and pioneer 6.5"s?

I could use some 6.5" mids. From what I looked up, they are 12ohm though? lol
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Old 06-02-2013, 11:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by graham View Post
basic specs on the bravox, usb hard drives and pioneer 6.5"s?

I could use some 6.5" mids. From what I looked up, they are 12ohm though? lol
They are these:

Bravox WFR-06BV02B 6.5" Blue Poly Cone Shielded Woofer 6 Ohm 299-049

Listed as 6ohm, but DCR is a little over 4ohm. I liked these a lot in my doors with no enclosure behind them. I was actually planning to reuse them for a distributed midbass system in the rear-seat floorwells, but I've got too many projects right now, lol.

Pioneers are TSG1617, brand new old-stock, still in the original packaging, never seen power. I don't know where the mounting screws or supplied speaker wire is that originally came with them, but the speakers and grills haven't been touched. THe look kinda purple in this link, the cones are blue though.
Pioneer TS-G1617 (tsg1617) 6-1/2" Speakers - Sonic Electronix

Hard drive is a WD WDBAAR3200ABK-00. It doesn't use a wall adapter, just a single USB cable for power and data which means it should work with a headunit that's capable of reading larger drives.

Amazon.com: WD Elements 320 GB USB 2.0 Portable External Hard Drive WDBAAR3200ABK-NESN (Black): Electronics
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Old 06-05-2013, 01:39 AM
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What else do you have? Id be willing to trade for the 320gb external if you add some other small item...I bought a 500gb for $35 like 5 years ago so I consider the 320 a little less than that, and the cache cloc'd's are like $50 new I think...does that sound fair?

My 500gb just died so I could use it. would you mind installing HD tune pro and screen shotting the health tab?

HD Tune website
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Old 06-06-2013, 11:38 PM
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Sorry it took so long to get back to you, I think I figured out another solution by switching around some of the channels on my amps. Sorry to lead you on but I'm going to back out. Good luck with selling it though, those are nice units!
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Old 06-07-2013, 12:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SPLEclipse View Post
Sorry it took so long to get back to you, I think I figured out another solution by switching around some of the channels on my amps. Sorry to lead you on but I'm going to back out. Good luck with selling it though, those are nice units!
No problem. What are these units worth though? I hope I wasn't asking too much for it
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