Finally wrapped up the test board build! What I thought was going to be a simple resistor bank build ended up taking on a mind of its own and ended up becoming a test board. Either way though I was sick of this build I am glad I did it. For those of you tuned in thank you and here is the conclusion:
1st we had to get lead wires from the bank to the connecting studs. Nice healthy 12 gauge. Terminals on, rings connected. Mock up on board in addition to the gauges.
Laid down the lines for the B+ and Ground dist blocks. Then drilled out pilot holes
Take it to paint!:
1st the Fan install:
Now it’s time for the gauges. From top to bottom, Volt, Volt, Temp, Amp:
Install temp Probe in resistor bank:
Attach Bank to board and pull through temp probe wires:
Now start running leads through the test board to the back:
Install connecting studs, bridging straps and nuts:
Time to connect leads to studs:
Attach power, ground and battery trace:
Lay it out and look it over:
Now that that’s done comes the solution to turning on the meters. I could have gone with simple rockers or toggles but I chose a $20 solution to a $2 problem! This is a 4 way power distribution hub. The temp meter and fan will be wired directlt to this via button 1 nd 2. Since the volt meters are tapped directly to the sources I want measurements from they will be a negative trip which means I need two relays. Could have used one but why make it easy? lol:
load testing speaker outputs without a sub/speaker. personally, i would have a gauge for ac output with banana pins and common banana/spring, or banana/twist binding posts, as amps are not really needed, but i suppose just using the alligator clips on a meter works, too, lol. looks clean bro. first thought is that the heatsink would serve better for one of my chipped rockfords, but it's nice to be able to show it off on the bench, too "eye candy"
Only a purely resistive load will have a 100% power factor on any frequency tested. Whenever you clamp power using typical methods, you are calculating volt-amperes, not watts. If the voltage and current are really really out-of-phase you could measure, for example, 1000 volt-amperes but at a 25% power factor, hence really only 250 watts. In very very rare circumstances, people who clamp woofers have close to 100% power factor, but most do not. Actually you can assume, other than for the sake of comparison relative to other woofers/amplifiers in the same vehicle tested on the same frequency on the same electrical (like how T Fade uses his same car and similar woofers/boxes to clamp different amps for the sake of relative tests), that most clamp tests are more of a waste of time than useful tests.
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