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  #1  
Old 10-08-2014, 01:38 PM
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Talking Alternator testing and tear down

I have in my possession 2 eagle auto 275 amp alternators and 3 Tenney 300 amp alternators. Yes I jumped on the Tenney craze and got hooped like quite a few ppl. At the expense of a blown treo 1500.1 I realized my tennys were Hooper and put out shit for current. Shopped around and was like f*** it and bought a cheap eagle auto 275 amp ad244 alternator. I currently have 1 Tenney working at the 2 eagles are working fine after about a year.

So here's my deal. I have a total 5 h/o alternators that have internals that I am curious what makes them different then the expensive brands.

I'm going to clamp the 3 alternators that work, each under load via a 500 amp load tester and clamped properly with a dc clamp meter.

I know my intro is very lengthy and wordy but please bare with me. I've also noticed a few things about some brands that I've stolen off Facebook pics and stuff that I will share with all.

Video results:
Tenney:
269 @2000 rpm
161 @ 800 rpm

Eagle auto 2:
255 @ 2000 rpm
145 @ 800 rpm

Eagle auto 1:
240 @ 2000 rpm
125 @ 800 rpm

Tenney #2
170 @ 800 rpm
257 @ 2000 rpm

Alterstart (load boss)
254 @ 2000 rpm


Clamp tests:
Tenney at idle about 900 rpm
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Q2NI...TLIY-Euanp9_Og

Tenney @ 2000 rpm
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vtiRr...TLIY-Euanp9_Og

Eagle auto #1 at idle
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VNHF...TLIY-Euanp9_Og

eagle auto #1 @ 2000 rpm
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jgta...TLIY-Euanp9_Og

eagle auto #2 at idle
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2PvV...TLIY-Euanp9_Og

eagle auto #2 @ 2000 rpm
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZur...np9_Og&index=4

Tenney #2 idle
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=P9mCn39WKQw

Tenney #2 2000 rpm
Http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=51njgxu9Coc

Alteratart/load boss 2000 rpm
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Dtz4POIlCYc
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Sometimes I just want to drive my shit into a shop and hand them a fistful of money and be like... "Here. Do this shit."
I have zero problems with people having a shop or other enthusiast do their build. But it's a little disrespectful they take credit for it and/or don't correct people when they assume the owner did the work. Happens all the time.
4 zv4 18:2 ct7k: c pillar wall(not sealed off)156.11:

Last edited by djscrubb; 11-03-2014 at 08:25 AM.
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Old 10-08-2014, 01:42 PM
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Nice I'm in for your review !
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Old 10-08-2014, 01:57 PM
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MECHMAN ALTERNATOR VS the other guys - YouTube

Posted link so I would forget lol. He states a couple interesting things in the video. Externally regulated looks easier to switch to then what I thought. They use a standard gm rotor. And their magical aluminum pulley leaves 2 mm gap so belt won't slip. But a cheap $3 pully you can't space with a washer lol
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Sometimes I just want to drive my shit into a shop and hand them a fistful of money and be like... "Here. Do this shit."
I have zero problems with people having a shop or other enthusiast do their build. But it's a little disrespectful they take credit for it and/or don't correct people when they assume the owner did the work. Happens all the time.
4 zv4 18:2 ct7k: c pillar wall(not sealed off)156.11:

Last edited by djscrubb; 10-08-2014 at 02:00 PM.
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Old 10-08-2014, 01:59 PM
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subscribed
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Old 10-08-2014, 02:03 PM
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I also have some pics I've stolen over the years but can't upload via mobile gotta wait till home with wifi.

Also please not I'm not an expert nor claim to be. I'm not claiming to have any special insight to how an alternator works. I own a clamp meter load tester and a soldering gun lol high wattage one cause desoldering alternators with a soldiering iron don't work lol
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Sometimes I just want to drive my shit into a shop and hand them a fistful of money and be like... "Here. Do this shit."
I have zero problems with people having a shop or other enthusiast do their build. But it's a little disrespectful they take credit for it and/or don't correct people when they assume the owner did the work. Happens all the time.
4 zv4 18:2 ct7k: c pillar wall(not sealed off)156.11:
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Old 10-08-2014, 02:37 PM
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DC current from thethe field wire (or regulator) causes the rotor to become an electromagnet, the magnetic waves (flux) runs through the outer windings and makes AC, then the AC is converted to DC via the diodes on the bridge. More wire on the rotor and stator (like filling the gap of a sub ) the more efficient and better potential output. Hair pin allows for a very tight pack like edge wound coils but can't be hand wound like standard stators thus cost more. Higher powered diodes increase efficiency and provide a more stable output
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Old 10-08-2014, 02:47 PM
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Thanks Jeff. That's how an alternator works. But what I want to know is what separates a stock alternator cheap high output alternator to an expensive high output alternator.
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Sometimes I just want to drive my shit into a shop and hand them a fistful of money and be like... "Here. Do this shit."
I have zero problems with people having a shop or other enthusiast do their build. But it's a little disrespectful they take credit for it and/or don't correct people when they assume the owner did the work. Happens all the time.
4 zv4 18:2 ct7k: c pillar wall(not sealed off)156.11:
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Old 10-08-2014, 03:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djscrubb View Post
Thanks Jeff. That's how an alternator works. But what I want to know is what separates a stock alternator cheap high output alternator to an expensive high output alternator.
Well stock and cheap can be assumed the same with minor changes such as smaller pulley or paint

High outputs will have a better weave/wind pattern to increase winding density to capture more flux lines. Diodes will be larger to match. Stator will be wound tighter packed... rectifier bridge will likely have better cooling
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Old 10-08-2014, 03:31 PM
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Okay well thread is useless now Jeff has covered all I was trying to say. Thanks Jeff won't have to test anything now
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Quote:
Sometimes I just want to drive my shit into a shop and hand them a fistful of money and be like... "Here. Do this shit."
I have zero problems with people having a shop or other enthusiast do their build. But it's a little disrespectful they take credit for it and/or don't correct people when they assume the owner did the work. Happens all the time.
4 zv4 18:2 ct7k: c pillar wall(not sealed off)156.11:
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Old 10-08-2014, 04:28 PM
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When I was tearing down an alt I had better luck using a propane torch than I did the 100 watt soldering gun. I'm planning on doing some comparison between an eagle 200 amp and an aspwholesale 240 amp rebuild. My current measurement will be a 500amp shunt in series with the output with an analog meter. Load will be my actual amp / sub combination. Still trying to figure out how I'm gonna mount the shunt to keep it from floppin around and shorting on anything. I noticed that the aspwholesale stator has 2x the copper that the eagle has (I think the eagle is a stock ad244 stator)

The first eagle 200 I killed, I put an aspwholesale 240 amp stator and a new regulator in. It worked for like 5 minutes, and died again. I think reg died again. Anyone mind measuring the dcr across rotor coil? I'm seeing about 2 ohms on mine, Don't remember off hand.

Long term idea is to build my own external regulator to control multiple alts, use current shunts for monitoring and balance load across alts. Will likely use an N channel mosfet to PWM the field, with the + end of field switched via relay to +12. If going that far might as well incorporate an hd44780 LCD to display currents / total. Will need an adc channel for each alt, and one for v sense, and a PWM output for each alt. Big ideas, little free time to make them happen.
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