[COMPLEX] Carpeting/Box Build Technique - Car Audio Classifieds!
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Old 11-12-2008, 03:44 PM
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Default [COMPLEX] Carpeting/Box Build Technique

Props to PV Audio @ caraudio.com

Before I begin this, I should say that this is merely my personal adaptation of James Bang's idea, whose technique is based off fishface's idea. I find it the easiest way in the world to replicate the look of inset sides ONLY IF you have a table saw. If you don't, good luck not slicing your hand off. Furthermore, do not do what I do and begin carpeting while the box is drying, nor test it while the glue is wet either. I am only doing so for time's sake. If you have screws, it should be okay since they can hold the boards together until the glue dries, but they do NOT give any actual strength. Also, the port end should be rounded over in the box, which I decided not to do, also for time's sake. Now, onto the technique itself.


For this technique, you MUST have the sides be the boards being screwed into. The only flaw in my technique is that you must use a .75" wide stick to recreate the same look on the other side. If you glue it properly, it will be fine. Built an enclosure this way for two 15" dreadnauts or juggernauts, (can't remember) about a year ago with no problems so far.
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Last edited by nismos14; 11-12-2008 at 03:47 PM.
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Old 11-12-2008, 03:44 PM
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Now for the build itself:

The first thing to any successful box is good cuts. They don't have to be CNC machined cuts to 1/1000th of an inch, but good cuts that line up flush with one another.






Now, take your two side panels, and make sure that they line up EXACTLY. The way that I ensure this is to cut all like measurements without moving the fence, and then go on with the other cuts. In this case, I cut all my 13.5s first, then did the rest. Again, the edges must be sharp and straight:



Okay, now is time to cut the recesses. Bring your sawblade down to about 1/8" height, and as close to the fence as possible (you will have to remove your splitter for this, make sure to replace it later though).





Okay, once you do that, rip off the excess that may remain, and take your razor to make the edges flush. Now it's time to assemble the box. You can do this however you want, but I was taught by a guy on diyaudio named vikash to build three unlike panels (bottom, rear and side) first, and then alternate so that you always have access to the inside until you put on the top. Clamp and screw the panels together with WOOD glue.



Make sure that all your panels are the same height otherwise you're in for some fun later on.




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Okay, continue to assemble the enclosure.





You can use a countersink bit if you want, but I just use the torque of my drill to make it work for me.



As reminded by powernaudio, make sure to take a flathead screw driver and scrape all the excess glue from the grooves. Otherwise, if it dries in there, the carpet won't go in and you'll be shafted. Makes life a lot easier. Sand down the enclosure and you'll see how similar it looks to JB's and bjfish's boxes.





Only difference is that you don't need a router table and only need to use the router for anything but cutting out circles. I recommend either a straight bit or spiral upcut bit. I've used both, either is fine. This is what a SUC bit looks like.


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Alright, onto the carpeting part. You will need:





Now, spray the sides of the enclosure with the glue and then the side of the carpet to be applied. MAKE SURE IT'S FLAT! Tuck the edges into the grooves and then cut off the excess by sliding the razor through the groove.





Do that for both sides. Carpet the rest of the box by starting on the bottom, spraying the wood and the carpet. The key to a successful bond with spray adhesive is to wait ~30-40 seconds until the glue becomes tacky on both surfaces, THEN you put on the carpet and make sure it's flat. Wrap it around until you get to this:



The key here is to overlap the carpet, lay a straight edge down and cut through both layers. You're left with a clean seam. I won't post a pic of the seam since you can't see it and it looks like all the other sides. Now turn the box on its side and spray the edges and tuck the main carpet into the grooves.



Take your scissors and cut the corners so you have another clean seam.



Razor the grooves again, tuck in any stray bits into the grooves and repeat on both sides.




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Now, cut out your holes and port.





Vacuum the box and you're done!

Here she is with her big twin brothers and larger uncle.



Some general tips:

1. SAVE YOUR SAWDUST! It is invaluble for making your own wood putty and fillers. Just keep it in a bucket, mix with glue and water until you get a thick paste. Can be used on anything. Relatively free and color matches.



2. Use good tools. Most, if not all of my tools are rated as medium duty. This is suitable for what we're doing. Light duty is for homemakers putting picture frames up, and heavy duty works fine, but is usually quite expensive. Make sure that you use a clean razor blade for every box (makes a HUGE difference).

3. Last but most importantly, be SAFE. Work on a clean surface. You don't want to be sliding around on wood dust and DEFINITELY don't want to breathe in the dust. I have a permanent cough now from it. Thus, I never even plug in anything until I put on:



Cheap, but effective enough. I'd also like to say that I really do NOT recommend doing this technique unless you've built boxes before. Not that it's difficult, but because when you are screwing into the sides, you have about 1/3 of the material to screw into. You need to make sure you get the screws dead into the meat of the wood, otherwise you'll either split it or it will protrude into the groove. Either way, it'll make it difficult.
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