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  #1  
Old 04-19-2011, 04:24 PM
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Default Determining coils for motors

How do you determine the best ID and OD, and winding height for a coil for a certain motor and top-plate assembly ID, OD, and gap depth? Also, how do you determine the former length for specific baskets? And finally, how do you determine where the coil sits in the motor, height-wise to work best for a motor?

Thanks.
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  #2  
Old 04-19-2011, 04:29 PM
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bump, i have always been curious about this too.
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pretty sure the lms coil just aids in some woogey boogy shitt called SQ
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Whats prototype about an off the shelf design in an off the shelf casing?
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Old 04-19-2011, 04:41 PM
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gotta know your magnetic gap height to start
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Old 04-19-2011, 04:47 PM
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So the depth of the gap to the top of the top-plate?
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Old 04-19-2011, 04:47 PM
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Good question, I would also like to know the answer to this.
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Old 04-19-2011, 10:01 PM
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magnetic gap height is where the most amount of flux can be transfered to the coil, this is almost always utilizing the top plate

coil is centered in the magnetic gap, over hung extends beyond the magnetic gap top and bottom and underhung stays within the magnetic gap

former height depends on the basket u use, so it comes down to measureing after uve determined what coil is best

a 50mm coil with 12 windings dissipates the same heat as a 25mm coil with 24windings, so u can see how its not exactly easy to make a custom sub without alot of experience and tinkering back and forth with ur specific motor
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Old 04-19-2011, 10:13 PM
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Gotcha, so center of the coil winding to center of top plate. That's what I always thought but had to make sure.
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Old 04-19-2011, 10:15 PM
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You should try what works, and get experience. About max coil depth clearance, basically, xmax one way+15% and a little more for a ported box sub is good. For a sealed box you may want a bit more then 15% extra.

The variation of winding height(xmax), and coil density change the characteristics of a subwoofer alot! Really, you need experience and an undertanding of subwoofer design. There are alot of newbs who blindly throw parts together and throw it in an average box, and some who add too much spiders with too little power applied to the subwoofer without understanding what character they will end up with.

I say to model alot of different subwoofers first, and read about subwoofer physics, after that you will know how a longer coill WH changes the tsp character of the sub etc...

You can take anyone advice on how long of a coil you can fit, but you may not be told that too long a coil has too high inductance, weight, and may make your Qts too high and make your subwoofer a sealed box sub instead of a ported one.

You also want to be carefull about the gap tolorance which is the loosness of the coil in the gap, too little will reduce bl/raise Qts, too tight and the subwoofer will have nasty power compression, for instance, if it is too tight you may only be able to max the output of the sub on 800w when the coil should be able to take more and if it does the output will just be limited by the ceiling at 800w.

Sealed box subs need good xmax for decent power handling with decent sound and output all together, ported box subs are alot more efficient with less xmax and you need to design the box corectly to get it all to work good.

For clearance you can start with a deep motor clearance and average size coil.

Last edited by Novicaine; 04-19-2011 at 10:35 PM.
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Old 04-19-2011, 10:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Huricain3 View Post
You should try what works, and get experience. About max coil depth clearance, basically, xmax one way+15% and a little more for a ported box sub is good. For a sealed box you may want a bit more then 15% extra.

The variation of winding height(xmax), and coil density change the characteristics of a subwoofer alot! Really, you need experience and an undertanding of subwoofer design. There are alot of newbs who blindly throw parts together and throw it in an average box, and some who add too much spiders with too little power applied to the subwoofer without understanding what character they will end up with.

I say to model alot of different subwoofers first, and read about subwoofer physics, after that you will know how a longer coill WH changes the tsp character of the sub etc...

You can take anyone advice on how long of a coil you can fit, but you may not be told that too long a coil has too high inductance, weight, and may make your Qts too high and make your subwoofer a sealed box sub instead of a ported one.

You also want to be carefull about the gap tolorance which is the loosness of the coil in the gap, too little will reduce bl/raise Qts, too tight and the subwoofer will have nasty power compression, for instance, if it is too tight you may only be able to max the output of the sub on 800w when the coil should be able to take more and if it does the output will just be limited by the ceiling at 800w.

Sealed box subs need good xmax for decent power handling with decent sound and output all together, ported box subs are alot more efficient with less xmax and you need to design the box corectly to get it all to work good.

For clearance you can start with a deep motor clearance and average size coil.
That I didn't know. Thank you sir. I'm saving up for the WT2 as well.
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Old 04-19-2011, 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by slim2fattycake View Post
That I didn't know. Thank you sir. I'm saving up for the WT2 as well.
Cool, you can do experiments with it. There is alot to it though, wow, lol. If you get it lmk if you need help using it.

You can learn some electronics and then learn to build a tank circuit and learn how to change the character of it and you will understand more about subs, good stuff man. I still want to experiment alot of things I can give a bunch of links to info if you want.

Last edited by Novicaine; 04-19-2011 at 10:54 PM.
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