2004 Nissan 350Z Touring Hatchback with BOSE without nav, with 6sp manual.
OK so here is the beginning of the entire mess. Some before pics.
The first thing you will want to do is locate the battery, and disconnect the negative wire.
Then move to the interior and remove the shifter knob by turning it counter clockwise, and you most likely have to hire a gorilla to get this off because they put lock tite on the threads.
After removing the shifter you want to use a screwdriver or your finger nails if they are strong enough and pry up on the plastic around the shifter boot which is held on with 4 clips. You want to pull up on the back side, then pull back on the front to properly release the clips.
Then you will want to disconnect the ribbon cable attached to the HVAC knob box, which as you will notice throughout this car, all the connectors are attached upside down and it becomes a PITA to get them out.
Then you want to pull the rubber floor mat out of your nav box, and remove the two screws you find underneath it, and pull the plastic cover out by using your fingernails on the back side, flipping it towards you.
There will be 2 screws that you can see after you take the panel off, they are way back in there so you need an extend able magnet to get them out once you loosen them.
You will also want to take out all 4 screws underneath the HVAC control box, and I don't know what I did but the box ended up coming loose, just wiggle it around or something, (happened when I was doing something else in the wrong order) then pull it towards you, reaching under it to help push the wires over top of the bar in the back, and disconnect and remove the control box.
Then reach up to the top of the dash and in the center is a pawl, just pull the center of it up towards the windshield to release the pawl. After popping it up, you need to go to the driver side and disconnect the way too short wire that goes to your gauges.
Then grab the sides of the nav box and pop the 4 clips loose and flip the whole center panel forward.
Here you want to pull the 4 screws that attach the h/u to the panel to give you more room to work, and this will allow you to flip the radio upside down to get to the connectors easier.
After removing the panel you can flip it over as I stated and you now see. This allows you to remove the 4 upside down connectors I mentioned at the beginning were all through this car.
THIS CONCLUDES PART 1 BECAUSE I HAVE TO TAKE A SHORT BREAK AND DON'T WANT TO TYPE THIS OUT AGAIN.
I will return momentarily to continue with part 2.
Ok, after pulling the stereo lay it on top of all your sockets so you cant get to any of the ones you need. and your car will look somewhat like this.
Then I proceeded to pull the passenger seat which has 3 connectors on it, and 2 extreme PITA clips holding the wires to the bottom of the seat that I just cut for ease of removal and because they are pretty pointless and I can just use zip ties later to replace the wires if they are going to catch on something that they most likely never will.
After removing the seat, you can go ahead and remove the driver seat too, but I waited to do that later, same process though.
Then I chose to go ahead and tackle the doors.
Lift the release handle and use a screwdriver to pop the cover out and remove the screw from behind the cover.
Then again with your screwdriver be extremely cautious because this part likes to bend. I chose to go in from the dash side of the handle at the bottom and pop the metal trim out of the door handle.
Then remove the screws from inside the top and bottom hole.
Next you want to remove the handle from the door, and mine didn't want to come off, so in the process of pulling and twisting and fighting I got it out and it also popped the window switch plate off with it which saved me a step.
Then disconnect the connector and throw the switch plate across the gara...... I mean place it with everything else you are removing from the vehicle.
after removing this switch plate there will be 2 more screws under it that you need to remove. After removing those you will want to start by the hinges, pulling on the door panel towards you, and work your way down, across the bottom, then up the latch side, pulling all the plastic clips out of the door, then lift up and towards the latch to remove the panel from the door.
After doing this, take 2 pictures of the same cables that go to the handle inside and disconnect the cables so you can store the panels out of the way (on the roof of the car)
I then took out the door speakers by disconnecting the wire, and taking out the 3 screws, then I got confused and laughed at the design of the speaker.
Then remove the tweeters from the sail panel by disconnecting the wire, and gently pulling the bottom side of the panel to release the clips, then pull downwards to take the top corner out from under the rubber flap.
The driver door is a little different, but the same concept.
Remove the cover and screw behind the handle, then pop the cap off the top of the screw inside the grab handle in the middle of the door and take the screw out.
Then pop the switch plate off and disconnect the wires (also backwards like everything) and store the switch plate with everything else.
After removing the switch plate, follow the same procedure for removing the door panel, take the cables loose, and store the panel away. (roof of the car still works amazingly well) then I took out the door speaker and the tweeter.
Then I got ahead of myself and made some spacers for the rainbows to clear the windows. I used what I had, which was 3/4" particle board, and 1/2" plywood, but it brought the new speakers out just enough to clear the window.
After cutting out the spacers I was tired and fatigued from listening to my dinosaur jigsaw, and I needed to drill holes in the spacers to mount them to the door, so I got in my Blazer and jetted on down to my work at 1AM to use the drill press and get some self tapping screws to run into the door frames, but we didn't have any long enough in a small enough diameter at work, so I went home and passed out in the recliner while using my laptop.
The next morning after 4 hours of sleep, I got up and went to Lowes, Best Buy and Walmart to get some self tapping screws, and RCA's because I forgot to get those when I planned out the system.....
Then came home and mounted the rings and test fitted the speakers for clearance and everything is all good.
Now I moved on to get to the factory amps and rear speakers and the sub.
To do this you have to start at the rear of the trunk.
Remove your carpet, the spare tire cover, and your spare tire. Then take the weather stripping off around the car side of the trunk.
Now you want to remove the center plastic piece in the back, to do this start at the bottom, popping the clips loose, and then there are a row of snaps across the top, so when you get up to the bend, pull straight up on the panel to release those, and toss it in your pile.
Next take off the upper covers by pulling up on them, held on by 4 clips.
Then remove the top strut bar covers by pulling up on them releasing the tabs and plastic push clips.
Then remove the rear trim piece by pulling towards the rear of the car. This is also just held on with plastic clips. (I believe this is where I broke my first clip)
Next you will want to remove the rear side covers, they have 4 button clips that you have to pop out with a screwdriver or body panel removal tool (woulda been nice) and the cargo net loop, pop the center out and pull on the loop. then the panels should either pop out or just come off, I cant remember which.
Next remove the front cover by laying over the rear speakers and pulling the panel towards the front of the car, and slightly bending it to get it out from under the cabin side panels.
Then for some unknown pointless reason, remove the silver plastic strut bar top panel by pulling up on it to release the plastic clips, and the shop manual says to remove the bottom panel too, but after removing the silver top piece I deemed it pointless and left it in there.
This concludes part 2 of my teardown tutorial. I am going to save this while I switch to page 3 of photobucket.
PART 3: Finishing up the teardown.
Ok, page 3 of my photobucket, and the end of stripping the vehicle.
After getting into the work so far it is hard to remember to take pictures because you get into a groove and don't think to stop tearing things up to take pictures of everything.
But now you want to take out the strut bar lower side panels by removing the cargo net loop the same way you did in the back, and I don't remember if the one under the strut bar holds this on or if it holds on the bottom panel, so just look and see.
Then pull towards the center of the car to release the clips.
Now to get to the rear speakers you have to take off the door sill trim by pulling straight up on it.
Then when that is out of the way you want to remove the lower side panel by pulling it towards the center of the car and just finding the clips and pulling them loose.
Then I removed the driver seat and repeated the same process on the driver side.
After taking out the other side I looked in my shop manual and it says to remove the center console. Joy.
You need to take out 2 screws up where the h/u was, pull out your felt lined ash tray by flipping the lid up and pulling up on the lid, take the screw out that is under it, then take out a screw on each side near the rear of the console. The console will then lift up and you will have a connector on the passenger side near the front with an extremely short harness going to it that you cant reach your hand in there to release, so I pulled really hard on it and break it off the console and then disconnect it. Then lift up on the console to take it out.
Then grab your trusty rusty screwdriver and pop the cover off from over the sub. Go to the other side and take the latch off the glove box, and pop the top compartments out by pulling on them one side at a time, not the lid, they will break, but by the side of the box.
Now go around the edges popping the clips loose, unplug the cigarette lighter and remove the trim panel around the glove box and sub.
Then I took the bolts out and removed the sub and sub amp.
After that I researched and found my speaker amp, took out the styrofoam block from the driver side by prying a clip off the top of a bolt, then fighting with it to get it out.
Then removed the amp by taking off 3 nuts and lifting straight up.
Not to take the cap off the rear speakers you just get in the cabin, and work it out on the front, then straight up on top, then roll it towards the rear of the car to release the pawls in the back and it it loose.
Then on the back panel just pull it towards the rear of the car to pop it loose.
After that I removed the factory rear speakers.
And here is what you will be left with.
Thank you for reading all of this, and stay tuned for the install of my new stuff and reassembly of the car. Then after breaking in the speakers I will give a demo vid of them, and when I build my sub box I will break it in and make a demo vid of the entire setup.
Off to work for me.
After tinkering with the car more once I finished the install I realized you don't have to tear all that out. But if you really want to get in touch with your car you can.
To gain access to what I really needed access too you just have to pull the shifter knob and trim piece, unbolt the center console and lift it out, take off the trim just behind the doors,and the panel covering your glove box and all that will pop out. Also with the shifter trim out you can take out the center dash to get to the radio.
And I cant guarantee that you can get the BOSE speaker amp out without pulling some of the panels in the trunk but you should be able to, but there is no need to pull it.