92K's 2004 Nissan 350Z Build Log - Car Audio Classifieds!
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  #1  
Old 08-10-2009, 11:38 PM
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Default 92K's 2004 Nissan 350Z Build Log

Testing out the new Uninterrupted area, as well as being the first build log posted in here.

I will be copying posts from the first build log to post in here, so they might be worded kinda funny from being old.

Link to discussion log - 2004 Nissan 350Z - Car Audio Classifieds

Ok, well now that my truck is coming to a close, I guess it's time to start putting money into my DD.
I have a 2004 Nissan 350Z with the factory BOSE stereo in it, and it's just not doing it for me. I am wanting to go for pure SQ on this one. And I hear this forum is kind of SQ oriented so I will use this one for my log.

First off, here is some pics of the car.


It says completely SQ, but I couldn't do it. I still have some SPL in me.


But after a page or two of discussion I finally figured out what I was getting to put in it.




Empty box?

NO WAI!



Got me a MB Quart Discus 4125,
A set of Rainbow SLC 265.25NG's,
And an Image Dynamics ID V.3 12"

So now I let them sit around forever waiting to get a Head Unit.

But in the mean time I was arguing with someone about the lack of room in the back of the Z and took these pics just to show people how small they really are. Remember this is a 12" sub.




Then after a BUNCH of screwing around I finally got a H/U for it as well as the dash kit.

A Kenwood KDC-HD942U





So then after some more time spent being lazy I got to work.

Had the car in the garage drying off from the rain and all my audioz laid out on some foam waiting to get put in.




The Orion 10" and the MTX amp went in a different vehicle of mine, but I just wanted to feel cooler so I put them out there too.


This is all for now, I'm going to make a new post with the whole tear down and install by copying and pasting what I posted in the old thread.

Also all of the videos will be posted at the end in a separate post.



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Vehicle: 04 350Z Touring Headunit: Pioneer AVH-X8500BHS
Front Stage: Rainbow SLC 265.25NG .. Amp: SAX-100.4
Sub: 2x RL-I 10s @33hz ................. Amp: SAZ-1000D


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  #2  
Old 08-10-2009, 11:50 PM
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TEAR DOWN

2004 Nissan 350Z Touring Hatchback with BOSE without nav, with 6sp manual.

OK so here is the beginning of the entire mess. Some before pics.




The first thing you will want to do is locate the battery, and disconnect the negative wire.




Then move to the interior and remove the shifter knob by turning it counter clockwise, and you most likely have to hire a gorilla to get this off because they put lock tite on the threads.



After removing the shifter you want to use a screwdriver or your finger nails if they are strong enough and pry up on the plastic around the shifter boot which is held on with 4 clips. You want to pull up on the back side, then pull back on the front to properly release the clips.



Then you will want to disconnect the ribbon cable attached to the HVAC knob box, which as you will notice throughout this car, all the connectors are attached upside down and it becomes a PITA to get them out.



Then you want to pull the rubber floor mat out of your nav box, and remove the two screws you find underneath it, and pull the plastic cover out by using your fingernails on the back side, flipping it towards you.



There will be 2 screws that you can see after you take the panel off, they are way back in there so you need an extend able magnet to get them out once you loosen them.



You will also want to take out all 4 screws underneath the HVAC control box, and I don't know what I did but the box ended up coming loose, just wiggle it around or something, (happened when I was doing something else in the wrong order) then pull it towards you, reaching under it to help push the wires over top of the bar in the back, and disconnect and remove the control box.

Then reach up to the top of the dash and in the center is a pawl, just pull the center of it up towards the windshield to release the pawl. After popping it up, you need to go to the driver side and disconnect the way too short wire that goes to your gauges.



Then grab the sides of the nav box and pop the 4 clips loose and flip the whole center panel forward.
Here you want to pull the 4 screws that attach the h/u to the panel to give you more room to work, and this will allow you to flip the radio upside down to get to the connectors easier.





After removing the panel you can flip it over as I stated and you now see. This allows you to remove the 4 upside down connectors I mentioned at the beginning were all through this car.


THIS CONCLUDES PART 1 BECAUSE I HAVE TO TAKE A SHORT BREAK AND DON'T WANT TO TYPE THIS OUT AGAIN.

I will return momentarily to continue with part 2.


PART 2

Ok, after pulling the stereo lay it on top of all your sockets so you cant get to any of the ones you need. and your car will look somewhat like this.



Then I proceeded to pull the passenger seat which has 3 connectors on it, and 2 extreme PITA clips holding the wires to the bottom of the seat that I just cut for ease of removal and because they are pretty pointless and I can just use zip ties later to replace the wires if they are going to catch on something that they most likely never will.



After removing the seat, you can go ahead and remove the driver seat too, but I waited to do that later, same process though.

Then I chose to go ahead and tackle the doors.

Lift the release handle and use a screwdriver to pop the cover out and remove the screw from behind the cover.



Then again with your screwdriver be extremely cautious because this part likes to bend. I chose to go in from the dash side of the handle at the bottom and pop the metal trim out of the door handle.



Then remove the screws from inside the top and bottom hole.
Next you want to remove the handle from the door, and mine didn't want to come off, so in the process of pulling and twisting and fighting I got it out and it also popped the window switch plate off with it which saved me a step.



Then disconnect the connector and throw the switch plate across the gara...... I mean place it with everything else you are removing from the vehicle.

after removing this switch plate there will be 2 more screws under it that you need to remove. After removing those you will want to start by the hinges, pulling on the door panel towards you, and work your way down, across the bottom, then up the latch side, pulling all the plastic clips out of the door, then lift up and towards the latch to remove the panel from the door.

After doing this, take 2 pictures of the same cables that go to the handle inside and disconnect the cables so you can store the panels out of the way (on the roof of the car)



I then took out the door speakers by disconnecting the wire, and taking out the 3 screws, then I got confused and laughed at the design of the speaker.



Then remove the tweeters from the sail panel by disconnecting the wire, and gently pulling the bottom side of the panel to release the clips, then pull downwards to take the top corner out from under the rubber flap.



The driver door is a little different, but the same concept.
Remove the cover and screw behind the handle, then pop the cap off the top of the screw inside the grab handle in the middle of the door and take the screw out.
Then pop the switch plate off and disconnect the wires (also backwards like everything) and store the switch plate with everything else.



After removing the switch plate, follow the same procedure for removing the door panel, take the cables loose, and store the panel away. (roof of the car still works amazingly well) then I took out the door speaker and the tweeter.

Then I got ahead of myself and made some spacers for the rainbows to clear the windows. I used what I had, which was 3/4" particle board, and 1/2" plywood, but it brought the new speakers out just enough to clear the window.

After cutting out the spacers I was tired and fatigued from listening to my dinosaur jigsaw, and I needed to drill holes in the spacers to mount them to the door, so I got in my Blazer and jetted on down to my work at 1AM to use the drill press and get some self tapping screws to run into the door frames, but we didn't have any long enough in a small enough diameter at work, so I went home and passed out in the recliner while using my laptop.



The next morning after 4 hours of sleep, I got up and went to Lowes, Best Buy and Walmart to get some self tapping screws, and RCA's because I forgot to get those when I planned out the system.....

Then came home and mounted the rings and test fitted the speakers for clearance and everything is all good.



Now I moved on to get to the factory amps and rear speakers and the sub.
To do this you have to start at the rear of the trunk.

Remove your carpet, the spare tire cover, and your spare tire. Then take the weather stripping off around the car side of the trunk.



Now you want to remove the center plastic piece in the back, to do this start at the bottom, popping the clips loose, and then there are a row of snaps across the top, so when you get up to the bend, pull straight up on the panel to release those, and toss it in your pile.



Next take off the upper covers by pulling up on them, held on by 4 clips.



Then remove the top strut bar covers by pulling up on them releasing the tabs and plastic push clips.



Then remove the rear trim piece by pulling towards the rear of the car. This is also just held on with plastic clips. (I believe this is where I broke my first clip)



Next you will want to remove the rear side covers, they have 4 button clips that you have to pop out with a screwdriver or body panel removal tool (woulda been nice) and the cargo net loop, pop the center out and pull on the loop. then the panels should either pop out or just come off, I cant remember which.



Next remove the front cover by laying over the rear speakers and pulling the panel towards the front of the car, and slightly bending it to get it out from under the cabin side panels.




Then for some unknown pointless reason, remove the silver plastic strut bar top panel by pulling up on it to release the plastic clips, and the shop manual says to remove the bottom panel too, but after removing the silver top piece I deemed it pointless and left it in there.





This concludes part 2 of my teardown tutorial. I am going to save this while I switch to page 3 of photobucket.

PART 3: Finishing up the teardown.

Ok, page 3 of my photobucket, and the end of stripping the vehicle.

After getting into the work so far it is hard to remember to take pictures because you get into a groove and don't think to stop tearing things up to take pictures of everything.

But now you want to take out the strut bar lower side panels by removing the cargo net loop the same way you did in the back, and I don't remember if the one under the strut bar holds this on or if it holds on the bottom panel, so just look and see.
Then pull towards the center of the car to release the clips.



Now to get to the rear speakers you have to take off the door sill trim by pulling straight up on it.



Then when that is out of the way you want to remove the lower side panel by pulling it towards the center of the car and just finding the clips and pulling them loose.



Then I removed the driver seat and repeated the same process on the driver side.



After taking out the other side I looked in my shop manual and it says to remove the center console. Joy.

You need to take out 2 screws up where the h/u was, pull out your felt lined ash tray by flipping the lid up and pulling up on the lid, take the screw out that is under it, then take out a screw on each side near the rear of the console. The console will then lift up and you will have a connector on the passenger side near the front with an extremely short harness going to it that you cant reach your hand in there to release, so I pulled really hard on it and break it off the console and then disconnect it. Then lift up on the console to take it out.



Then grab your trusty rusty screwdriver and pop the cover off from over the sub. Go to the other side and take the latch off the glove box, and pop the top compartments out by pulling on them one side at a time, not the lid, they will break, but by the side of the box.



Now go around the edges popping the clips loose, unplug the cigarette lighter and remove the trim panel around the glove box and sub.



Then I took the bolts out and removed the sub and sub amp.



After that I researched and found my speaker amp, took out the styrofoam block from the driver side by prying a clip off the top of a bolt, then fighting with it to get it out.
Then removed the amp by taking off 3 nuts and lifting straight up.



Not to take the cap off the rear speakers you just get in the cabin, and work it out on the front, then straight up on top, then roll it towards the rear of the car to release the pawls in the back and it it loose.



Then on the back panel just pull it towards the rear of the car to pop it loose.



After that I removed the factory rear speakers.



And here is what you will be left with.




Thank you for reading all of this, and stay tuned for the install of my new stuff and reassembly of the car. Then after breaking in the speakers I will give a demo vid of them, and when I build my sub box I will break it in and make a demo vid of the entire setup.

Off to work for me.

After tinkering with the car more once I finished the install I realized you don't have to tear all that out. But if you really want to get in touch with your car you can.

To gain access to what I really needed access too you just have to pull the shifter knob and trim piece, unbolt the center console and lift it out, take off the trim just behind the doors,and the panel covering your glove box and all that will pop out. Also with the shifter trim out you can take out the center dash to get to the radio.

And I cant guarantee that you can get the BOSE speaker amp out without pulling some of the panels in the trunk but you should be able to, but there is no need to pull it.




__________________
Team CACO Team SHOK
Supporting Member
Vehicle: 04 350Z Touring Headunit: Pioneer AVH-X8500BHS
Front Stage: Rainbow SLC 265.25NG .. Amp: SAX-100.4
Sub: 2x RL-I 10s @33hz ................. Amp: SAZ-1000D


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  #3  
Old 08-11-2009, 12:10 AM
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Install

Ok, this part isn't as picture intense, but there is enough to please at least 1 person. I was just stressed, very tired, and just wanted to get the car drivable so I didn't want to stop every 2 seconds to take a pic.

Here is the trim from around the top of the battery that I had to take off, and I also took off the piece next to the windshield by simply popping the clips out of the holes and lifting the piece out of the way.



This is probably the ONLY part of the car that was easy. Running the power wire. Do you see what I see within inches of the battery? Yes that is a HUGE grommet with more than enough room to run 4awg. Just cut a slit in it FTW.



Then I was getting bored and went to the parts store because my battery hold down was missing a bolt from when I bought it, so I picked up a new kit.



Then I ran my wire. Sorry about the second pic, it was an impossible shot.



I ran the wire down the kick and with all the factory wiring along the door.

Here is a pic of where I test fit the door panels to see if I had to modify my spacers. CLOSE, but they will still work.



Then some horrible pics of my rainbows crossover mounted to the door skin because the door boot has a molex connector on one side so you cant run your own wires over to the door so I couldn't put the xovers where I wanted them.



Then a full shot of the door just before I put the panel back on. And a shot with the speaker cover out so I could make sure it didn't hit the speaker.




All the rest, mounting the amp, driver door, putting panels and seats back in, and installing the H/U didn't get pics taken because I kinda zoned out in my zombie like state from working on the car too much on the wrong sleep schedule and lack of sleep. Sorry fellas.


So on to the pics of how the car sits as of about 30 mins ago.

Doors still look factory. Not a bad separation of the mid from the tweet.



Nothing out of the ordinary in here.



I put rainbows in the door, but don't have an amp? Did that 4awg go to the H/U?

Nothing in the trunk.



Not up front or on the back of a seat..........



AHA! I FOUND YOU! Sneaky little turd.





Pretty clean eh? Hardly any wiring even showing.

FYI: NEVER install an amp in that tight of a space. It is more trouble than it looks.

And now some pics of my pretty, also used just like everything else I bought (except the Rainbows), H/U




And I just noticed my toes. If you have a foot fetish or some weird stuff like that, don't let me know plzkthxbai.


The sub will hopefully be going in this weekend along with my spare and all the trunk panels and carpet.

The crossovers didn't stay in the door like I had planned. They ended up flopping around inside the door panels and the runs of factory wire I used to get to the doors just weren't cutting it so I moved them down under the seats and ran new wires into the doors. I guess I didn't take pics of that process but you can take the boot loose in between the door and the car by flipping the little lever over and it will pop right out, then pull the other end of the connector out of the side of the car into the foot area and cut out holes in it, and the other end on the door side in the same spot and then you can run your own wires in to the door.




__________________
Team CACO Team SHOK
Supporting Member
Vehicle: 04 350Z Touring Headunit: Pioneer AVH-X8500BHS
Front Stage: Rainbow SLC 265.25NG .. Amp: SAX-100.4
Sub: 2x RL-I 10s @33hz ................. Amp: SAZ-1000D


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  #4  
Old 08-11-2009, 12:23 AM
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Box build

Final box specs

33 x 7.5 x 14 = 1.36719 = 1.29 after displacement

This will be a first for me, it will be an interesting design.

Am I the only one that hates SPL dust boogers?

BUT I know how you fegzos are so here are teh pickz.






My work area.



Security just in case. Better to be safe than sorry.



Got everything cut out.



Starting the dry fit.



Gave up with dry fitting and started gluing after I made sure the ends would fit.



Another view



Got the ends put in, glued and screwed.



Another angle.

Now I just have to drill a hole in one end to run my wire through, cut a hole in the baffle, mount the baffle, let it dry, carpet it, and mount the sub.

This is the way I'm planning on putting it






This was the original plan.



Here is how she sits









Came inside to look up the cutout size for this sub and thought I would post pics.

Well, I just drilled 2 small holes and forced the wire through, (It pulled the insulation back from the cut end of the wire) then put some wood glue around the edge to finish the seal.









I also wrote in the box for good memories, and now it sits out on my dads pickup to dry in the sun.



Final update for today!

Guess what?



That is right, MOAR PIX!

Gave it a little graffiti using up what was left in my can.



















Reppin as always!




'Tis how she sits as of now. I have to work midnight to 6am and I have been up since 5am, so it is nappy time fro me. Carpet will be put on next weekend.

Well the carpet never got put on, but it will in time.

Remember it took me like 5-6 months from the time I bought the stuff till it got to how it sits in that last pic.




__________________
Team CACO Team SHOK
Supporting Member
Vehicle: 04 350Z Touring Headunit: Pioneer AVH-X8500BHS
Front Stage: Rainbow SLC 265.25NG .. Amp: SAX-100.4
Sub: 2x RL-I 10s @33hz ................. Amp: SAZ-1000D


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  #5  
Old 08-11-2009, 12:36 AM
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Videos

Before Sub

BOSE
Z Install :: MVI_0654.flv video by MidnightBlueChevelleSS - Photobucket

Rainbows
Z Install :: MVI_0767.flv video by MidnightBlueChevelleSS - Photobucket

Rainbows w/ Gorilla ZOE
Z Install :: MVI_0768.flv video by MidnightBlueChevelleSS - Photobucket


A video to show off how far you can hear them from

YouTube - Rainbows at a distance

SQ style vids.


YouTube - SQ Videos Round 1 Part 1



Since you cant see the descriptions in the small vids here,

The volume was too high, first time taking vids with the car all closed up trying to show some SQ. Next time around will be better.



Finally got the DCI stuff to work in the Z. Converted it from WMA to 320kbps MP3.

This is just a short clip of The Zone by The Cadets. One of my favorite parts of the 6 tracks I got from 98AckCL23.

EDIT: From 10 seconds to 15 seconds will be good if you have a sub.

YouTube - SQ Vid Round 2

AFTER SUB



YouTube - Z Bass



YouTube - Z Bass 3



Well, as a man of my word here are the videos I promised, in order of request.



And a bonus video



Videos were taken engine off, windows up at volume 20-22 with 30 being my set max. In the second video (sorry Madmat) I cranked it to 30 just to see what it would do. I didn't realize the sub was up so high when I had it down on normal listening volume and it kinda covered the vocals. If you want I will take another one tomorrow with the sub on like -5db.

And the Bonus video was shot engine on windows down at 30.



Here you go Madmat. Bettar? You can pretty much see everything I do on the screen.

YouTube - Madmat Request Take 2

I guess my luck isn't turning around for the better





I guess now it is time for something different....



__________________
Team CACO Team SHOK
Supporting Member
Vehicle: 04 350Z Touring Headunit: Pioneer AVH-X8500BHS
Front Stage: Rainbow SLC 265.25NG .. Amp: SAX-100.4
Sub: 2x RL-I 10s @33hz ................. Amp: SAZ-1000D


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  #6  
Old 08-11-2009, 12:39 AM
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WELLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL LLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL

I got a box.



Guess what is in it.



Packing looks pretty good.



Let's take a peek. Looks like plastic...



AHHHHHH That is what it is. A batcap.



Batcap 800 to be exact.

But I think I saw something else in the box when I pulled it out.



WIRE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! YAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



Got a short run of Kicker Hyperflex and Stinger 4awg as well to run from the batt to amp.

Thank you Money_Inc for bringing your stuff back to sell on CACO. I appreciate it.

And Niz, :P

I stole it from you


Then last night I got an email from UPS with this in it.

UH OH!!!!!

Ship To:
Brian Stewart
(Insert My Address Here)
TULSA
OK
74107
US

Number of Packages
1
UPS Service: GROUND
Weight:
28.0 LBS

HMMMMM

Updates will come.



Attached Images
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File Type: jpg IMG_0960.jpg (85.5 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0962.jpg (87.1 KB, 6 views)
__________________
Team CACO Team SHOK
Supporting Member
Vehicle: 04 350Z Touring Headunit: Pioneer AVH-X8500BHS
Front Stage: Rainbow SLC 265.25NG .. Amp: SAX-100.4
Sub: 2x RL-I 10s @33hz ................. Amp: SAZ-1000D


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Last edited by 92K1500; 09-15-2009 at 03:02 PM.
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  #7  
Old 08-25-2009, 09:01 PM
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Well after finishing up a side project that was occupying my garage I got some work done today, and this needs an update bad.

A while back I got this in the mail. It was mentioned in my last post.






Wasn't packed amazingly perfect but it is much better than a lot I have seen.

Sub looks amazing, decently heavy, and I love it.

Well today I got the box worked on, but still don't have carpet on it because I found out my cat has been using it for a bed, and I am just too tired and worn out to put it on.



Double baffled it and put in brass bolts on the end cap for easy coil config changing.


Tomorrow I plan on cleaning up the garage from finishing up that car, then carpeting the box and installing the the right way. Then building a holder for the batcap and sticking it in the car.

Here is a video of me putting the first power to it.

Remember I have it set to -5db on the head unit and the amp is tuned for 500W (it's max) with the h/u on 0db. So the sub isn't even getting half of its rated power.

YouTube - Z Bass new sub


This is a big THANK YOU to Team PSI for building me such an amazing sub. It sounds so much cleaner than the ID, and I have a feeling with full power to it after it breaks in it is going to destroy my car.

EDIT: Pics attached in same order for some of my peeps to see.




Attached Images
File Type: jpg PSI Sub.jpg (85.1 KB, 6 views)
File Type: jpg PSI Sub (1).jpg (88.0 KB, 7 views)
File Type: jpg PSI Sub (2).jpg (88.3 KB, 7 views)
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File Type: jpg PSI Sub (11).jpg (83.5 KB, 6 views)
File Type: jpg PSI Sub (12).jpg (86.1 KB, 8 views)
File Type: jpg PSI Sub (13).jpg (107.6 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg PSI Sub (14).jpg (83.5 KB, 9 views)
File Type: jpg PSI Sub (15).jpg (92.0 KB, 7 views)
File Type: jpg PSI Money.jpg (92.9 KB, 6 views)
File Type: jpg PSI Money (1).jpg (96.2 KB, 11 views)
File Type: jpg Box (23).jpg (89.0 KB, 6 views)
File Type: jpg Box (24).jpg (88.3 KB, 8 views)
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Team CACO Team SHOK
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Vehicle: 04 350Z Touring Headunit: Pioneer AVH-X8500BHS
Front Stage: Rainbow SLC 265.25NG .. Amp: SAX-100.4
Sub: 2x RL-I 10s @33hz ................. Amp: SAZ-1000D


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Last edited by 92K1500; 09-15-2009 at 02:13 PM.
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  #8  
Old 09-01-2009, 11:04 AM
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3/17/2011 RIP
 
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Well today I was inspired by the wonder weather to get out there and take some vids.

The sub has had a few days of beating to break in some, and I'm still under powering this sub quite a bit.

First off we have a request by a YouTube member

YouTube - Dr.JohnBecker Request 2

Then we have a personal favorite of mine.

YouTube - Z Bass New Sub Round 2

It was flexing the whole steering wheel/gauge cluster but the cam didn't pick it up

Then the dreaded killer song by BigPimpin91.
It did amazing this time.

YouTube - Z Bass New Sub Round 2 #2

Feel free do discuss in my discussion long linked in post 1.



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Vehicle: 04 350Z Touring Headunit: Pioneer AVH-X8500BHS
Front Stage: Rainbow SLC 265.25NG .. Amp: SAX-100.4
Sub: 2x RL-I 10s @33hz ................. Amp: SAZ-1000D


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  #9  
Old 09-15-2009, 02:00 PM
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3/17/2011 RIP
 
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Oh lordy I have been at it again. My wallet hates me with a passion.

I have added to the family. I got home from runnin' around with my pops and saw something different sitting on the porch.








That is a pretty big box. What is it?



Oh lordy. That looks beautiful.



OMG MOAR?!?!?!??!



Awww dang. Empty box FTL. Good packaging though



I had to change my pants after I took this pic.



Oh look they strippin down.







Nice. Tested only a month ago so they are still fresh.







Oh My God. Doesn't this glorious moment just bring a tear to your eye?




HOORAY!!!

Go here to discuss. 2004 Nissan 350Z - Car Audio Classifieds


PS: I will unpackage them here in a few and pull their big brother out of the pickup for a group pic, and I might hump them a few times for good measure.


EDIT: Pics attached in same order. Sorry I forgot.



Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_1049.jpg (97.0 KB, 6 views)
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File Type: jpg IMG_1051.jpg (87.6 KB, 7 views)
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File Type: jpg IMG_1058.jpg (82.2 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_1059.jpg (83.1 KB, 7 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_1060.jpg (86.3 KB, 8 views)
__________________
Team CACO Team SHOK
Supporting Member
Vehicle: 04 350Z Touring Headunit: Pioneer AVH-X8500BHS
Front Stage: Rainbow SLC 265.25NG .. Amp: SAX-100.4
Sub: 2x RL-I 10s @33hz ................. Amp: SAZ-1000D


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Last edited by 92K1500; 09-15-2009 at 02:06 PM.
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  #10  
Old 09-18-2009, 09:46 PM
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Last update for page 1

I got another box!



Got 23.5 feet of Knu Kompressed cable ro replace the 4awg in the Z to get that extra little bit of power to the amps.

Hopefully the install will start Monday if not Sunday.



__________________
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Supporting Member
Vehicle: 04 350Z Touring Headunit: Pioneer AVH-X8500BHS
Front Stage: Rainbow SLC 265.25NG .. Amp: SAX-100.4
Sub: 2x RL-I 10s @33hz ................. Amp: SAZ-1000D


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