BD5034's 2002 Mustang GT build - Car Audio Classifieds!
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Uninterrupted Build Logs This build log section is just for the member to post pictures and descriptions of their work without the chatter.


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  #1  
Old 09-17-2009, 09:06 PM
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Default BD5034's 2002 Mustang GT build

OK - It's going to take me a little while to get this build log sorted out because I'm actually starting the log halfway through the build.


First I'm going to link to the build log of my big three and runs of power wire because I've done the log for that already. Since it's a product review/build log combination, I'm going to leave it where it is.

Here's the link: Shok Industries is FTW

I also have one in progress for deadening:

Second skin products ongoing install by BD5034


The rest of the log is going to be right here in this thread.


Edit: I should probably have put this first. Here's pics of my car

On the dyno!







In the street!







My sweet brakes.





Bad ass pony, red white and FORD blue!



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Last edited by Wheres The Butta; 09-17-2009 at 09:56 PM.
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  #2  
Old 09-17-2009, 09:10 PM
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I made this rough drawing a while ago to get an idea of how I was going to wire everything.

I have put the 8" midbass drivers on hold until I have the time/money to make new door skins, so just disregard that part

This also doesn't include the substage.

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Last edited by Wheres The Butta; 09-17-2009 at 09:29 PM.
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  #3  
Old 09-17-2009, 09:22 PM
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Here is what's going into the system:

Head unit: Eclipse CD5000

Front Stage: Focal KRX3 set, will eventually be run full active (three-way active) using a memphis 16x03 three-way active electronic crossover

Front Stage Amps: Currently an alpine PDX 150.4 - will be swapping to sundown SAX-100.4 and SAX 125.2 so I can run fully active.

Subwoofer: 15" Custom black & white beast built by Dave @ Team PSI, using a FI BTL motor, dual 1.4 ohm coils, 8 layer flat wound aluminum, quad stiff spiders, dual sewn in tinsel leads, and the sexy f*ck it dustcap. Beast.

Subwoofer amp: Sundown SAZ-3000D

Electrical System: Optima yellowtop under the hood, another optima yellowtop in the trunk (second battery is G31) Mechman rhino 250A Alternator (benched 270A)

Power wire & Fusing : 50 feet of Shok Industries 1/0ga competion series pure copper cable for power, automotive supply 1/0ga for grounds. 5 in-line ANL fuseholders from Shok Industries, fused distribution block also courtesy of Shok Industries

Interconnects: Stinger helix 4-channel to the memphis 16x03 for my front stage, then three identical pairs of yellow tsunami interconnects. For the substage, knukonceptz basic stuff.

Sound Deadening: First attempt was a door kit of dynamat extreme and two gallons of e-dead liquid. I followed this up with some foam rubber weather stripping to seal up cracks throughout the car, and also used some modeling clay in the doors for mass deadening. I have MDF plates for my door speakers.

I recently followed this up with the log that i'm doing for second skin. This includes a door kit of damplifier pro (which I got for free ) and also 36 FT^2 of luxury liner pro and a gallon of spectrum sludge.

I have over 100lbs of deadener in my car (probably a good deal more to be honest) It's still not 100% quiet because it's a convertible mustang with a loud ass exhaust.. I gave it my most sincere effort, that's all I can do.
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Last edited by Wheres The Butta; 09-17-2009 at 10:19 PM.
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  #4  
Old 09-17-2009, 09:28 PM
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I've also used a ton of accessories that many people overlook. These help keep the install neat and include:

Techflex
Heat shrink tubing
Plastic zip ties
Split Loom
Wiring boxes to protect and conceal wiring hubs
Flexible conduit
Silicone sealant
Spraypaint
And just for good measure, one empty commercial lighting fixture that I retrofitted with a relay and some power/ground distribution points, plus some blue LEDs so it looks cool.

To work with metal and plastic, I've used these tools and find them helpful:

Air-powered die grinder
Dremel tool
Roto-zip
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Old 09-17-2009, 09:36 PM
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Just FYI all that gray stuff is e-dead liquid. I put a nice thick coat on the floor pan.

Now, here's a nice place to start the log itself: the humble chassis ground.


Found a good spot! Right where my rear seat belts bolt onto the chassis. You know this is a very sturdy point.






I figured I would show the new guys how to do a chassis ground the RIGHT way. Here's a nice stud sticking out of the chassis.







Next up - use that grinder and clean up the area!







Not good enough, keep going!







Here ya go!


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Old 09-17-2009, 09:38 PM
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In this picture you can see the dual 1/0 gauge ground bolted down. That wet spot is where I used blaster penetrating catalyst to help lubricate the bolt as I tightened it - it's an extremely snug fit.






If you're wondering what that yellow stuff is - it's fiberglass insulation - I lay it down over the floor pan to help reduce transmission of unwanted noise into the cabin of the car. The wooden box houses my ground distribution:




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Last edited by Wheres The Butta; 09-17-2009 at 09:41 PM.
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Old 09-17-2009, 09:45 PM
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This is a commercial lighting fixture, taken from work. I gutted it and retrofitted it with a remote turn-on relay, and twin unfused distribution blocks - one for ground and one for power. I'm not showing a picture of the inside of this because it's top secret These pictures are from a test-fit. I have since cleaned it up more.




See the LED in each end?














This is what it looks like at night:


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Old 09-17-2009, 09:50 PM
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Wiring..... I love wiring, it's soothing. Sadly I'm not kidding, I actually get great satisfaction out of running wires nice and neat and making everything look good.

I built a couple runs of wire for when I go fully active with my front stage, but I haven't actually pulled these runs through yet - they're sitting coiled up in my garage until I get my new amps.

Here's the materials - 100 feet of dayton premium pro audio speaker wire, 50 feet of knukonceptz basic stuff. The dayton wire is for my woofers since they're getting more power - the knukonceptz stuff is for my midrange/tweeters. I also have tons of black PET (techflex) and black zip ties.






A new guy might get a good idea from this - in order to make this easier, you want to mark your wires before you run them, and you want to tape the ends together nice and snug so they go more smoothly.





Put the wire through the techflex....


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Old 09-17-2009, 09:52 PM
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ZIP TIES!




The finished product looks something like this:



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Old 09-17-2009, 09:57 PM
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Random picture of me with an impact gun.
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