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Captain $hit disturber
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Discussion Starter · #81 ·
Yeah the regulators don't like a solid 12 volt running to them on the light input a 500 ohm inline reduces current.
 

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any reg and rectifier part numbers i should look for for a cs144....97 caddy
any part number recommendations are greatly appreciated:)
avalanche or non avalanche for my application?
 

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Any reason not to do an ad244 swap? I believe avalanche rated diodes are a good thing for alternator applications. And on the regulator look for whatever voltage you want with the fastest LRC you can find so it responds to increased load faster. I like my non-temperature compensated regulator alt better than the temp compensated one, it stays at the same voltage from cold start to hot. As long as you don't run a voltage high enough to gas the under hood battery in the temps it gets to under the hood, you should be fine. I havn't had any issues with mine, which charges at 14.1 normally, but with a diode added to the sense line charges at 14.7. I have it run along side the temp compensated alt (Havn't rebuilt it yet) that will start at 15.1v in about 10 degrees F, and drop to 14.3 to 14.4 after driving about half an hour. I havn't seen any swelling of my under hood duracell g34 AGM. If I was running standard FLA batteries I's be concerned with gassing.
 

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the space that the alt drops out from the bottom just barely fits the cs144 case so i don't think the 244 would fit.
97 Cadillac eldorado.....front wheel drive so the space is very limited. as it is the cs144 is almost rubbing the rad coming out.
i'm gonna have to hit a scrap yard and see if i can grab a 244 and test it for fit but the alt bracket is going to be another issue i think....my sre is another issue as only the ones out of the caddy seem to have the correct bolt pattern on it.
my question regarding the diodes was due to finding rectifiers with higher diode ratings on the non avalanche type 70 amp as opposed to 50 and 60 for the avalanche....i think the avalanche would be the safest choice due to the electronics in the car.
will say the cs144 is an easy unit to work on
 

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Captain $hit disturber
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Discussion Starter · #88 ·


Managed to install my new cande shop 320 amp alternator. It's -7 out so please excuse just the pic. These retail for 380 shipped usd. Will do a video when I unfreeze lol maybe
 

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Captain $hit disturber
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Discussion Starter · #89 · (Edited)
So thread is almost a year old and been through a few alternators over the past year lol

I got tired of wrecking and rebuilding the honestly cheap ebay alternators. They have their place, the do 250 amps on the daily and for 200$ cant really complan. After trolling for a bit I managed to snag up an Ohio Generator `275`and a DC power 300 spx.

The Ohio Generator is rated for 275 hot, so in theory should do 300 cold. Its dr44g setup where the rectifier is attached to the rear housing making for alot of heatsink.


It was damaged in shipping kind of why it looks all bent and what not.


And there is really no comparison to the ebay high output stator I had laying around. The shear weight of it is a noticeable difference.




Goes cheap ebay alternator, running dr44g rear half


Ohio generator 275


DC Power spx 300
 

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Captain $hit disturber
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Discussion Starter · #90 ·
Looking at the Ohio Generator it was sprisingly similer, mainly in rectifer to the Cande Shop 320 that I had bought and sold earlier this year. I cannot comment on rotor design however the stator and rectifier look very very similar.


This is the rear half of the ohio generator. Notice the copper leads off the dioteds plastic over the copper bussbars on the rectifer


And this is the Cande Shop 320 I had bought and sold. Little better shape wasnt damaged in shipping and do recall clamping 300 amps cold out of it.
 

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Captain $hit disturber
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Discussion Starter · #91 · (Edited)
Looking closer at the Dc Power Spx 300 I was totally beside myself. When looking at it from the outside it looks super hefty completely custom build hand crafted etc. Until I tried looking for a regulator for it. Came with a gm 2 pin and I need gm 4 pin.



Nice huge wound stator with custom machined front half that came blue anodized. Im very curious how the sticker says Nations Alternator with it clearly being a DC SPX alternator. Does Nations build for DC POWER




In the bottom picture near the power stud you can rear `Valeo` the custom mfgr of the rectifier :)


Dc Power`s description of the 300 spx pulled from their website says that it has 12 40 amp press fit diodes. Sounds like custom built rectifier with running 12 diodes etc.

Its a cool setup where instead of the stator having 3 legs coming off of it it has 6 so the stator is kind of split and rotated like 45 degrees.

Where I circled in the pictured.


The MER5209 Valeo rectifier rear housing boasts 12-50amp pressed diodes and comes factory on bmw
And replaces the 595202 Kind of looks like the same model number on the Dc SPx 300. Not saying the Dc uses this exact rectifier but they are surprisingly similar

Id love to give clamp numbers and videos of this alt, but i already sold it to guy in the forum so if he wanted to proved some clamp numbers that would be awesome. I think i got 320 cold but dont really remember.
 

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Captain $hit disturber
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Discussion Starter · #92 · (Edited)
Next up I got a Mechman Smd 320 highoutput alternator :)

They come externally regulated and wasnt really impressed with that so I decided to see if i could find an internal gm 4 pin regulator. Well according to Mechman they wanted to stick with the highest performance and only offered externally regulated.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=EDnb_nbLRmo




After hunting the interweb i found the rear half and realized that the rear half was made buy mitsubishi only for the ford crown vic police package. So another disippointing non custom rear half. And no internal regulator was to be found. I havent had a chance to clamp the SMD 320 cause ive been super lazy. But will have clamp video soon.
 

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Captain $hit disturber
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Discussion Starter · #93 · (Edited)
Lastly for now:
Mechman 370 elie


Your standard large case hairpin that came with gm 4 pin regualtor that figured may as well switch to external regulated to match the other mechman i have.
And big shout out to usalternators as he was only shop that would step up and sell me regulator for the mechman and harness as well. Smoking good price !!





Had to take the front of the housing off and took some quick pics. I had to rotate the rear half so the + stud was little more clock wise


Large case rectifier
 
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Cool...thanks for all the info dj!

I've been toying around with the idea of trying to build a custom alt for my car (00 Neon) because I've got a couple spare stock alts laying around. Seems like a PITA to make sure everything fits and lines up an the stock case though. It would probably be easier to build a bracket for another alt.
 

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how do you manage to burn out alternators like that? I've never been able to do that even loading them way down lol

seems like you know a good amount, can you imagine any reason why I'm getting what seems like excessive ripple after installing a second alternator on a gm truck? It literally occurs at idle and no other rpm. I assume it's due to the ratio of charging to battery bank changing but what causes an alternator to put out so much ripple at idle
 

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Captain $hit disturber
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Discussion Starter · #96 ·
Cool...thanks for all the info dj!

I've been toying around with the idea of trying to build a custom alt for my car (00 Neon) because I've got a couple spare stock alts laying around. Seems like a PITA to make sure everything fits and lines up an the stock case though. It would probably be easier to build a bracket for another alt.
I would honestly build a bracket to fit a second alternator. Don't have to be an alt For a neon either. I would do one for dr44g cause they super easy to wire up lol
 

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Captain $hit disturber
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Discussion Starter · #97 ·
how do you manage to burn out alternators like that? I've never been able to do that even loading them way down lol

seems like you know a good amount, can you imagine any reason why I'm getting what seems like excessive ripple after installing a second alternator on a gm truck? It literally occurs at idle and no other rpm. I assume it's due to the ratio of charging to battery bank changing but what causes an alternator to put out so much ripple at idle

I tend to break a lot of stuff. Subs amps alts etc. The alternator I ran all day probably 5 hrs straight on a hot day fully loaded. Alternator from my guess just over heated was also the alt At the very bottom of the bracket closest to the exhaust and probably gets the hotest meah was. Cheap alt added to the pile of scrap parts.

As for the ripple I'm not to sure of what you mean ripple?
 

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I tend to break a lot of stuff. Subs amps alts etc. The alternator I ran all day probably 5 hrs straight on a hot day fully loaded. Alternator from my guess just over heated was also the alt At the very bottom of the bracket closest to the exhaust and probably gets the hotest meah was. Cheap alt added to the pile of scrap parts.

As for the ripple I'm not to sure of what you mean ripple?
Yeah I guess running it hot for long periods will do that, there's ridiculous amounts of room and airflow around my alts so i assume they stay relatively cool.

and I mean AC ripple out of the alternator, i can hear it through my sub at idle. i know its not a wiring issue because this didn't occur until i added the second alternator, and only occurs at idle rpm. whether or not i need another ground because extra power is coming from the alts at idle is questionable (no ripple above idle RPM) but im thinking it has to do with one of the rectifiers going bad or fighting the other alternator. i need to put it on a DMM and scope to see if i can prove my suspicions.
 

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Captain $hit disturber
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Discussion Starter · #99 ·
Yeah I guess running it hot for long periods will do that, there's ridiculous amounts of room and airflow around my alts so i assume they stay relatively cool.

and I mean AC ripple out of the alternator, i can hear it through my sub at idle. i know its not a wiring issue because this didn't occur until i added the second alternator, and only occurs at idle rpm. whether or not i need another ground because extra power is coming from the alts at idle is questionable (no ripple above idle RPM) but im thinking it has to do with one of the rectifiers going bad or fighting the other alternator. i need to put it on a DMM and scope to see if i can prove my suspicions.
Yeah i dont know man never had that problem.
 

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Hurtin' Feelins' errrday
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What about EA alts? (Excessive Amperage)

I had one and had one problem, sent it back got it and no probs ever since.
 
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