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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, I have everything ready to install. The Stinger instructions call for connecting one of the connections to a 'true ignition source'. I don't really know where to connect this lead. The other three are obvious.

Any help here?
Pics/diagrams?
 

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Most people on here probably don't use them.......You really only need one if you plan on playing music for long periods of time with the car off, so you don't drain you underhood battery so you can still start you car.....however this also can have a negative effect since your alt will have to work overtime charge your very drained battery's in the back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
I am setting my truck up for extended desert camping, (also pulling a camper), so there are often periods of days that I don't run the truck long enough to recharge. I also run lights, various low voltage devices, etc, so I do need an isolator (or two). I still am not sure where to connect/tap into a 'true ignition source' . This is for an F150 2004.
 

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Ja Marcus
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What that mean is a source that is controlled by the key. Its for the coil, when the wire has voltage from the key,or "true ignition source", it pulls in the contacts and allows current to flow thru. Its simply a giant relay of sorts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
What that mean is a source that is controlled by the key. Its for the coil, when the wire has voltage from the key,or "true ignition source", it pulls in the contacts and allows current to flow thru. Its simply a giant relay of sorts.
I am fully aware of it's function, I am looking for that magical wire.
 

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Ja Marcus
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Let me clarifiy a bit. The wire needs to be "hot" ONLY when the key is in the "on" position. Not the ACC. So you want to take a meter and find a wire that becomes "hot" when the vehicle is running, but is dead when the key is in any other position.
You should be able to use a DMM and find one pretty easy. The relay pulls very little current to work so you shouldn't have any fuse issues later on. Just get a good "T-tap" with an insulated spade onector and you will be good.
 

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Ja Marcus
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Just get in under the hood at the main PCU fuse box or look for a bundle of wires. Start testing and look for one that comes on when I described and has 12v. Adding the relay shouldn't pull very much current so you should be fine tapping into about anywhere.
 

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It's under the steering wheel. Pull that panel off above the pedals and hit em up with a dmm. I had to do this when I install my Alarm, but be careful what you cut. Believe it or not, you can blow your transmission if you cut the wrong wire and dont put it back. I reccomend snap splice connectors so that you dont tamper with factory wiring any more than you have to.
 

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So, I have everything ready to install. The Stinger instructions call for connecting one of the connections to a 'true ignition source'. I don't really know where to connect this lead. The other three are obvious.

Any help here?
Pics/diagrams?
A true ignition source is one powered by the alternator, that is only on when the engine is turning the alternator. It does not mean something that simply switches on when the key is turned to the on position. When using a true ignition source as the signal wire for your isolator, this is important because if you use one simply turns on when the key is on, it’s still possible to run down your starter battery with the engine off.
 
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