I have some thin wall pvc that should bend with a little heat, but it is around 7in dia so with a 5.5 cubic ft box it would have to be 15" for like 31hz ?
Just saying the mdf flares are sexier and they are more precise with the flare. :nod:I take just regular PVC and use a heat gun and roll the PVC in front of the heat gun until it is evenly heated and easy to bend and use a bowl I found that works perfect for flareing up to 8" aero's and I set the PVC on top of bowl and push till I get the desired flare and let it cool till it hardened or poor water on it.. It takes a while to get it perfect and you might burn a few pieces of PVC in the process but once you get the hang of it it's pretty easy pm me if you want pics of the previous aero's I've done and any more info:thumbsup:
Its not hard just cut around the mdf board to cut out the flares and then attach them to the other end of the port. And changing out mdf flares would be just as easy as modeling the flares from the pvc itself.What ever you think is best I just like haveing the ability to change out my aero's and have flares on both ends of the aero port idk if your routered ones have that but For test in tune I think my way is easier that's just me tho
Exactly :nod: I was right and you were wrong :lol:Yes I see I'll try your way on the next build I do with 10" PVC because my method doesn't do well on thick 10" PVC I can't find a bowl big enough lol. And your way would also make it easier to get the exact length of the aero you want inside the flares
For this particular box it was unnecessary to flare both ends of the port so I just flared one end and it worked out fine and yes just flaring one end does help.Do you make a flare for the inside as well? Without it, doesn't it kind of defeat the purpose, unless you're just going for looks?