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Thank you so much! So you shim inside and outside of the coil correct?
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Thank you so much! So you shim inside and outside of the coil correct?
Correct. This is the hard part though as the motor is magnetized you will need to make a good guess as to how thick of shims you need while you lower the top plate. You can always go back up but once all the way down, that plate wont move.
 
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im "E Thug" sukka
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i would love to c a basket get mounted on a magnetized motor :), i got a hcca that i have to drilled out bolts then retap, i want to switch baskets from my 15" nightshade with my 12" level 5, not sure if it would b easy to unscrew or not, as bolts love to stick to magnets
 

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i would love to c a basket get mounted on a magnetized motor :), i got a hcca that i have to drilled out bolts then retap, i want to switch baskets from my 15" nightshade with my 12" level 5, not sure if it would b easy to unscrew or not, as bolts love to stick to magnets
Most are aluminum and wouldn't have any issues :hello: And the bolts wouldnt be that much of a problem.
 
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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
i would love to c a basket get mounted on a magnetized motor :), i got a hcca that i have to drilled out bolts then retap, i want to switch baskets from my 15" nightshade with my 12" level 5, not sure if it would b easy to unscrew or not, as bolts love to stick to magnets
Most are aluminum and wouldn't have any issues :hello: And the bolts wouldnt be that much of a problem.
from my experiences most are actually steel but none the less the bolts dont really cause much of an issue, they are so small and as long as they are not in the gap there is not much magnetizm.
 
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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
In the next few days I will have a video up of centering a coil.
 

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from my experiences most are actually steel but none the less the bolts dont really cause much of an issue, they are so small and as long as they are not in the gap there is not much magnetizm.
Werd. I'm definitely not one to be messing with woofers/motors very often :hello: just the standard 12-spoke and such are aluminum, iirc....it is saturday night though, so no promises :( :hello: (I AM the creator of the 'Drunk Thread'...)
 

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im "E Thug" sukka
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to both u guys, thanks, but its just they have phillips heads on them, ive tried on an alpine type E motor bolt n stripped it easily, thats y i asked now, before i tried on a much more expensive "oopsies"
 

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to both u guys, thanks, but its just they have phillips heads on them, ive tried on an alpine type E motor bolt n stripped it easily, thats y i asked now, before i tried on a much more expensive "oopsies"
Ive seen a fancy thing that a buddy's dad has in his airplane hanger he uses for screws like these. It's a phillips driver head on this shaft with an area on the upper end of it to hit with a hammer...and while the hammer strikes it, it rotates a bit so there's tons of down-force on it while it rotates, pretty slick little tool if you ask me...
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
to both u guys, thanks, but its just they have phillips heads on them, ive tried on an alpine type E motor bolt n stripped it easily, thats y i asked now, before i tried on a much more expensive "oopsies"
Use the correct size phillips bit. Impact driver works best but use a drill over a hand driver anytime. I have had some experiences where I have to take a torch to the bolts. Most companies use a loctite or epoxy on their screws which is why they are hard to get out.

Werd. I'm definitely not one to be messing with woofers/motors very often :hello: just the standard 12-spoke and such are aluminum, iirc....it is saturday night though, so no promises :( :hello: (I AM the creator of the 'Drunk Thread'...)
No I may have misread, the baskets are aluminum yes, but most all the time the bolts are steel.


Ive seen a fancy thing that a buddy's dad has in his airplane hanger he uses for screws like these. It's a phillips driver head on this shaft with an area on the upper end of it to hit with a hammer...and while the hammer strikes it, it rotates a bit so there's tons of down-force on it while it rotates, pretty slick little tool if you ask me...
A hand impact ;) real easy to use and cheap
 

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Use the correct size phillips bit. Impact driver works best but use a drill over a hand driver anytime. I have had some experiences where I have to take a torch to the bolts. Most companies use a loctite or epoxy on their screws which is why they are hard to get out.



No I may have misread, the baskets are aluminum yes, but most all the time the bolts are steel.
Ah-ha! I knew I was right :hello: :lmao:

And nice ninja-edit on the hand-impact ;)
 

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im "E Thug" sukka
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Ive seen a fancy thing that a buddy's dad has in his airplane hanger he uses for screws like these. It's a phillips driver head on this shaft with an area on the upper end of it to hit with a hammer...and while the hammer strikes it, it rotates a bit so there's tons of down-force on it while it rotates, pretty slick little tool if you ask me...
yeah ive seen that tool, i also have a battery powered impact hammer i could try, but i was thinking of a hammer too, its just lately i been getting hurt for no reason n havent felt like smashing another finger this month lol, a quarter of my nail has grown back, i dont want to lost another for atleast 2 months
 

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im "E Thug" sukka
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Use the correct size phillips bit. Impact driver works best but use a drill over a hand driver anytime. I have had some experiences where I have to take a torch to the bolts. Most companies use a loctite or epoxy on their screws which is why they are hard to get out.



No I may have misread, the baskets are aluminum yes, but most all the time the bolts are steel.




A hand impact ;) real easy to use and cheap
i got a fat phillips, i got every screw driver known to man in every size :thumbsup:, but doesnt steel with aluminum just rust up fast? idk how they dont on the baskets, but i guess ill have to bust out my handheld torch, this will turn out interesting as i can get a lil pyro at times
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
i got a fat phillips, i got every screw driver known to man in every size :thumbsup:, but doesnt steel with aluminum just rust up fast? idk how they dont on the baskets, but i guess ill have to bust out my handheld torch, this will turn out interesting as i can get a lil pyro at times
Most bolts are either stainless steel, or black oxide so they will not rust (atleast not easily).
 

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edit: its amazing what not being lazy and reading through the whole thread can do for you.

And wheres that write up at on how the soft parts are assembled?!
 
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