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Air Pumpin' Terrorizer
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
How can I get this done and make them sound the best? I was thinking of purchasing this speaker box kit. Drilling my 3 way component speakers into them and adding polyfill if I have too, at the end result. I am sure they will sound amazing..at least I hope. This is only gonna be used for my PC speakers, consider this a cool project and upgrade.

Parts Express Knock-Down MDF 0.04 cu. ft. Micro Bookshelf Speaker Cabinet Pair


Now lies the issue of... I need an amp. I am not looking to buy a huge AVR reviver cause that simply will not work, Not only will that be too big, but even some AVR's don't seem to be enough power in 2 channels to give these 6" woofers the bass I'd like. Not to mention most AVRs don't seem to like 4ohm speakers where they usually power 8 and 12s. I could only assume it will sound like poo dung after that, especially with the crossovers the avr will use, I am sure it will filter out all low pass because they have their own sub out where that will be directed.

So I thought about grabbing this thing, will this work and be enough? Could this thing give me the proper crossovers(hopefully none) to let my 3 way passive crossover do the work it should? I basically want unfiltered and let the passive crossover do everything as it should.

Pyle PCAU44 Mini 2x120 Watt Power Amplifier w/USB/CD Input

Or do I need to get something else? Again this is gonna connect to a PC via either RCA audio cables or 3.5mm jack through a soundcard.



Any tips or help on this would be great. I would of went the AV forums but I haven't been a member there in years.


Thanks guys.
 

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That's a reeeealy small cabinet, which will limit low end quite a bit and add a big bump in the midbass. If you've got a sub that can play pretty high it might not be an issue though. Without specs on the woofer portion of the speaker it's hard to guess at the response, but most car speakers will have a relativly high QTS that need larger enclosure.

My suggestion would be to get this amp instead:

OPEN BOX Lepai LP-2020A+ Tripath Class-T Hi-Fi Audio Amp w/Power Supply

It's been proven as a great inexpensive solution for small desktop systems and should give you plenty of power for some car speakers. I doubt the Pyle you listed will make as much clean power as this one. Save that money and buy some larger cabs.

edit: about the crossovers, you shouldn't need an amp with any built-in crossovers or anything. Like you said - let the passive take care of dividing everything up. Depending on how your sound card is configured, there might be an 80hz (or around there) high-pass filter on the front channels already if you are also using a sub. You'll have to check your specific soundcard for that though.
 

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Air Pumpin' Terrorizer
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Discussion Starter #3
ok, so go up a size than? The speakers are actually eclipse lol. Eclipse 8365s. I am not sure what the QTS is on them. Also that amp you have is only 20 watts. That is pretty small. I had a 100x2 on these and in the car and they barely moved the woofers lol

Just wonder what size speaker box I should get.

and yes. That is what I wanted the passive crossovers to do. I didn't want anything else to split it up for me because it would come out all weird. I don't want an amp that does that and some amps believe it or not, do that, Sometimes only give out 80-120hz.
 

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Related to power and loudness, the stereo I have in the garage is a vintage pioneer with 30 watts per channel. The speakers are 3 way with 12 inch woofers, but they get plenty loud on that 30 watts. Unless I'm trying to hear it over the table saw, I usually don't get it over 2 watts (there's analog gauges on the front of the receiver) while working in the garage. Less than 10 watts when I'm working outside of the garage. I think a 20 watt per channel class T amp should be plenty for computer speakers, unless you're wanting to crank it and hear it in the whole house.
 

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Nice speakers! I misread your original post and through they were coaxials, not components. Sorry about that!

Yes that larger enclosure should work much better. Modeling it up i get an f3 of about 90hz, but it's a really smooth roll-off that would compliment a sub nicely. If you could go even larger you'll get more low end, and having a larger front baffle will help with baffle-step loss which will also help the midrange (search for "baffle step compinsation" for more info on this).

The ideal enclosure would be about 0.4 ft^3 vented and tuned to about 45hz. I'd recommend a 1.5" diameter round vent 4.5" long. That would get you an f3 in the low 40's with about 6dB extra gain in the low end compared to a the sealed enclosure.

As for the amp, you could probably use more power than the one I recommended, but for near-field computer use it's more than powerful enough. If you want to step up the power look into some of the larger Lepais (like this one: Lepai LP7498E 200W Class D Amplifier with Bluetooth and Power Supply ) or any of the class T/D amps. The Dayton amps from PE would be a good choice as well if you want to stick to class a/b. FOr ~$100 there's tons of better options than the Pyle.
 

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Air Pumpin' Terrorizer
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Discussion Starter #8
hmm. I like that little guy. I may get that. Also I have no idea what you mean by F3 haha. And I want bass but I don't need THAT MUCH bass I mean they are mids. So what kind of speaker box do I need? I won't be able to find a tuned ported one I don't think. Been looking everywhere for speaker boxes.
 

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f3 is the frequency where the response rolls off to 3db lower than the... (I dunno if it's the peak or average) but generally accepted as the end of the frequency response.
 

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The ideal enclosures would be (sticking to Parts Express here, although you could get them elsewhere):

Parts Express Knock-Down MDF 0.56 cu. ft. Bookshelf Speaker Cabinet

Cut a 2.5" hole in the back and use one of these per cab. Use silcon or gorrila glue to glue them in place.

Speaker Cabinet Port Tube 1-1/2" ID x 4" L Flared

If they were my speakers and I was using off-the-shelf parts that's what I would do, but you could use those smaller sealed cabs as well, you just won't have as much bass/midbass response.

The crossover can be mounted inside of the enclosure if you'd like to avoid having a bunch of wires on the outside of the cabinets.
 

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Air Pumpin' Terrorizer
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Discussion Starter #11
hmm. so should I cut the woofer off from the midrange and tweet?
 

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I believe those mids are sealed back, so you can mount them in the same enclosure without worry. It would actually look pretty cool if you could mount the pods they come with to the enclosure too. You might have to silicone the back of the pods or use some weatherstripping to make sure they have an air-tight seal.
 

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Air Pumpin' Terrorizer
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Discussion Starter #13
I believe those mids are sealed back, so you can mount them in the same enclosure without worry. It would actually look pretty cool if you could mount the pods they come with to the enclosure too. You might have to silicone the back of the pods or use some weatherstripping to make sure they have an air-tight seal.
You mean in the box you showed me?
 

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Air Pumpin' Terrorizer
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Discussion Starter #15
Yes that is what I am looking to do. Although mine won't look that amazing haha but I'll get something like that
 

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Air Pumpin' Terrorizer
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Discussion Starter #16
I do have the pods too. Might actually have to do that. So should I do this sealed or ported?
 
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