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Banda viking 7000 1 ohm

27K views 47 replies 16 participants last post by  djscrubb  
#1 · (Edited)
Original Thread:
So being that I'm a brazillian lover figure I would pick one up and do some testing.


Fairly heavy casing nice metal love the flat black.



Packaging is very pretty lol. Not much for padding but I assume shipping box would be Styrofoamed.

Results are quick and dirty for now. These are unloaded till just before clipping light via my variable power supply.



I guess being lazy causes problems and just squaring voltage to give potential wattage isn't a fair result so these are the ac voltage out at given dc voltage.

Waiting on my alternators to do some real world testing sorry to disappoint.
 
#5 ·
And yes just voltage squared method sorry lazy will post actual ac voltage out and there some very good gut shots on their Web page
 
#9 ·
Shit Corey you already repairing one?
 
#12 ·
Talked to banda usa theres been one sent back for grounding speaker + while playing. And mine might have gone back lol I hooked up + and - reverse lucky it go protection lol.
How you like the sm parts Corey. The 250 amp fuse is a bit disheartening :(
 
#15 ·
The 250A fuse-

Be having the background with Taramp's, first thing that comes to mind is, well simply, they are accounting for it to be wired at 1ohm so the fuse will not pop..

Well, i have 2 problems here-

1, the 5k and 7k both use the same size fuse. This is a curious question there..

2- the biggest problem i have is it's rated for 5,100w @2ohm 12.6v.. yes 12.6v. Over 6,000w at 14.4v

I've done plenty of playing around with fusing in my day as MECA was only close organization around my area.

For continued currect draw in a daily environment, i've experienced the following-

Using custom fuse blocks for more adequate surface area, fusing does not like to be subjected to a continuous averaged draw of around 50-70% more the rating of the fuse.

In my experience, the fuse would never pop, it would slowly discolor overtime creating resistance.

Resistance=heat and there is no protection around that fuse if heat creates smoke.. and then enough heat to start burning something.

At the lowest current draw, the LEAST i can possibly create an example is the following-

5,100w @12.6v based on 90% efficiency(for example)-

449A of current draw minimum and this is simply just using batteries.. Just adequate batteries, no alternator required in this example.

250A fuse results in a draw 80% more than the rating.

Now, one of 2 things can only happen.
1- the fuse will pop
2- the fuse will not pop

If you have enough batteries, it is assumed to say that could be dangerous for the integrity of the amplifier.

Now, if i'm not mistaken, Banda-USA gives the customer the option to allow to use something they have made to relocate the fuse outside the amplifier.

While this is great idea, especially could upgrade size... Is upgrading the size safe?

All these questions i have is something you guys should find out!

FYI- Taramp's HD8000 is rated for following-

5,250w @2ohms
Manual suggests a 430A fuse, so let's say 450A.

We have ONLY and i mean ONLY ever had a necessity to recommend a user increase their fusing size because their electrical system is so good for the amplifier, that they were pulling close to 600A and popping it so we suggested a 550A and has been fine.

So, in this example, we fuse for the load and application it is used for without failure.

Perhaps Banda's fusing is literally the same way, with the exception that according to calculations, they do not want or expect large battery bank.

While speculation needs to be tested, it does need to be tested.

I'm sure these amplifiers do their rated power fine. It's the consistent output that has me curious on a GOOD electrical system.

We all know it is not designed for a true 1ohm load which is fine.
But a true 2ohm load for several minutes would need to be tested or perhaps longer and then inspect fusing.

Answers to these questions would be great!
 
#16 ·
I would strongly like to add my position that i am FULLY biased on the POSSiBILITY that having too many batteries can be bad for these amplifiers.

I'm not biased on the brand, i'm biased on the degree of engineering involved.
So hopefully, me saying this can have them tested to ensure Banda is not low quality that was being sold several years ago by practically every brand....
Including Taramp's until they finally ditched the TA line.

Why am i biased on this speculation?

Here's why-

While doing research with Taramp's for a long time, a user, not to be named here, gave us plenty of information he had first hand in south america curious about Stetsom.

One particular issue is one of their large 12v amplifiers fried from too much power(electrical system was stout).

Stetsom questioned the user about his electrical system and said it was played with vehicle off. Only batteries.

Once questioned about the quantity of batteries, Stetsom determined too MANY batteries were being used for this amplifier and killed it.

Now, step back and laugh your ass off because that's the most terrible real reason for an amplifier to fail.. but Stetsom had this problem.

So, it's very wise to inspect these calculations to understand what other brazilian brands may NOW still, if any, have this problem.

Nobody is looking for high power with terrible electrical system so it must be investigated for the sake of the customers.
 
#17 ·
Shizzzon I value your questions and opinion I would hope to be able to test you questions and theories coming up in the near future. My alternators should be here tomorrow so should have testing mule up tomorrow.
 
#18 ·
That's good.

Whoever tests it.. please don't square voltages, :)

From what Banda has told us(banda usa), the amplifier can safely accept up to 15v for daily usage so if that really is true, then the onboard stock fuse is determined only for low quality electrical systems and "can" be upgraded" when necessary without potential damage to amp.

But don't assume this! Not until thoroughly tested.
 
#26 ·
Fuse fail to blow- if it were to do this, i'm afraid people may put larger in there and may be bad idea-

I understand resistance but it would still generate heat..
Or at least we could say it would drop it's input voltage more and more if the fuse was very bad until potential failure..

User wouldn't know because the voltage was being measured outside the amplifier.

For the record...a 250 amp Mega fuse usually takes close to 500 amps to actually blow.
I'm talking about sustained output, unless you are too?

If so, then that's great info!
 
#30 ·
It's the same fuse that GM uses on their batteries. My buddies 2500hd, dual alt/battery setup still using the factory 100amp megafuses on the batteries and they've never popped.
 
#36 ·
While trying to test one of these for a Banda vs. Taramps showdown, the Banda popped that fuse on the first 1 ohm burp. Poof.

Banda, when asked, said, "just put a buss bar in there."

Umm.. ok? Then wtf is the thing for?

I've also been told by Banda that *their* amps will run a 1 ohm resistive load. I've not yet had the chance to test this though.