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Keep the mmats! Hifonics is not nearly what it used to be...better than flea market, but definately nowhere near the quailty of the mmats.
 
See that's an ass backwards question. You dont "hear" the amp. I have heard subs run off that hifonics. The subs sounded good but here is the thing the was question he asking was power. When it comes to power the Mmats are going to perform better.
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
See that's an ass backwards question. You dont "hear" the amp. I have heard subs run off that hifonics. The subs sounded good but here is the thing the was question he asking was power. When it comes to power the Mmats are going to perform better.
the hifonics is 1700 rms @ 1 ohm!!!

plus 1200rms @ 2 ohm

my 1400.1 i have NO CLUE what it does @ 2 ohm.
the link earlier in this thread showed the 1400.2 (2 ohm version of 1400.1) doing 1400rms @ 2ohm

im a little confuseed

also if i have 2 12's.......what dual voice coil do i need?
 
So you have the 1400.1 so you need either two dual 4 subs or 1 dual 2 subs or 2 s4 subs. There is a lot of options depends on what your goals are. The thing is the Hifonics doesn't put out what it says it doesn't. It isn't even close to efficient as the Mmats.
 
^^ They do put out what they say they do. Unless your talking about recent older models, those do not... they are overrated, the 2010 models are not.

I use 2 BRZ2400.1d and they are great, never had a problem with Hifonics amps. They are 18V stable too~

I liked their subs too, but one complaint I have now is that the OLM2415 definitely cannot handle 2400W each.

Their Atlas subs handle well over their RMS rating. I had 2k on 2 600w RMS atlas, and they still run strong.

Never used anything MMATS so have no opinion, don't know why so many people seem to hate on Hifonics or why people say the 2010 models suck. Maybe the 2009 models that say 2010... never tried them but the actual 2010 models (BRZ not BXi) are very good.
 
http://www.mmatsproaudio.com/pdfs/2009%20Manuals/M1400.1D,M1400.2D.htm


M1400.1D/M1400.2D


M1400.1 M1400.2

STABLE TO: 1 ohm 2 ohm



CONTINUOUS (RMS) POWER
@ 13.8 Volts:


Watts @ 1 ohms mono 1 X 1400 N/A
Watts @ 2 ohms mono 1 X 750 1 X 1400

Idle Current: 1.5 amp 1.5 amp
Signal to Noise Ratio A-Wtd: <85dB <85dB
Total Harmonic Distortion: 0.3% 0.3%
Channel Separation: N/A N/A
Input Sensitivity: 150mV-2.5V 150mV-2.5V
Slew Rate: 13V / Usec 13V / Usec
Fuse Rating: 80 amp 80 amp

Dimensions:

Height: 2.25” 2.25”
Width: 9.5” 9.5”
Length: 8” 8”

General Information:

Frequency Response: <10Hz to 275Hz
Low-pass Filter: Variable 24db, 77 to 275Hz
Battery Connectors: 2 Gauge
Speaker Connectors: 8 Gauge

Controls and Connectors


(1) Positive Power Terminals –This is the power feed from the positive (+) terminal of the car’s battery. Use 4-gauge cable (MINIMUM) and good quality terminals when routing this connection. Tighten all connections well to prevent power loss due to bad contact. Route the power cable away from the RCA jacks and speaker cables

(1) Ground Terminals - For optimum performance, use 4-gauge cable MINIMUM! Connect this cable to your battery’s negative (-) terminal or to a secure area of the body in the trunk. *See note below.

Remote Terminal - The amplifier will turn on when 12 volts is applied to this terminal. This 12-volt signal is usually taken from the Power Antenna or Remote wire coming from the source unit.

Speaker Terminals - Connect to speakers using 16-gauge wire (minimum). Running too low of a speaker impedance will cause the amplifier to go into a fault condition.

Crossover Filter – Linkwitz/Riley 24db slope. This control sets the 6db down point of your amplifier.

Gain – Allows input levels between 150mV (max gain) and 2.5 volts (min gain) for full output.

Recommended Fuse – 60 amperes.

Recommended Battery: You should use 1 battery for each pair of amplifiers. If your system uses only 1 amplifier, then the starter battery is sufficient. Note: When you have to parallel 2 or more batteries together always use the same, size, brand and amperage of battery. This will ensure that the batteries charge equally. We do not recommend battery isolators. At 2 or more batteries, you will need to upgrade your alternator. The starter battery should always be upgraded with a high output audio battery.

Note: If you use the chassis as a source for your ground in the trunk, you MUST increase the size of the wire that runs from the front battery to the fender. Remember; 12 volts has to run in a continuous loop and if you do not increase the ground wire up front the voltage/current will be restricted and your system will not play to its fullest.
 
the hifonics is 1700 rms @ 1 ohm!!!

plus 1200rms @ 2 ohm

my 1400.1 i have NO CLUE what it does @ 2 ohm.
the link earlier in this thread showed the 1400.2 (2 ohm version of 1400.1) doing 1400rms @ 2ohm

im a little confuseed

also if i have 2 12's.......what dual voice coil do i need?
2 2Ohm DVC
Parallel/Parallel =.5
Series/Parallel = 2Ohm


2 4Ohm DVC
Parallel/Parallel= 1Ohm
Series/Parallel= 4Ohm
 
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