[bottlefed1]

I have a tapered t-line that was designed by pete from pwk and thats what i use daily but i want a burp box for competitions. No this new box is not for tomorrow but it will be for competitions in the future.

 

[bottlefed1]

Free designs are hard to come by man. Im guessing you wanted something for the show tomorrow, though its getting a little late. Ill be dropping by there though so if you find me, feel free to ask any questions.
Some t-lines, like horns, can have great sensitivity. The thing is, efficiency comes at a cost - which of course is normally size.
There is no default "which would be best". If you want, youre free to come by sometime and test your sub. Then we could run a few numbers and see whats up. I believe 92k is coming by today to do the same thing.

-- It also depends on what box orientation you peaked at 43. If you can get a similar peak at a higher number, and dont mind the higher frequency, you could get a higher number there as well. Higher box gain + cabin gain = good numbers

I made bigger so you know thats the sentence I was talking about.
With that said I have used 2 different boxes one was the old box wich was just over 2.5 cubic feet and was off dd's website. That box peaked at 43 hz in my suv and I had a 3512 in it then. After that I cut the hole in the box to fit the 9515 in it, both subs gave the most spl at 43hz. Then I had pete design me a box for the 9515 tuned low and I received the tapered t-line that I am currently using. Its tuned to 28hz but my highest spl still comes at 43hz. So what I was told was to tune around 40hz or so and that would make everything peak at about 43 which would give me the greatest spl. What you guy are telling me is that t-line, horn, L port, aero makes no difference on spl.

 

[bottlefed1]

I see.
and yes t-lines do. But depending on the woofer, power, and other things you could be ok. Wont be strapping two 4500s to one by any means.

I wouldnt expect him to be doing the design. There are very few of us who can do them.
If you shared the plans for the t-line I could reverse engineer it and see what hes got going. We could go from there for a box that would put up better numbers, using it as a reference point if youd like. Wed have an advantage of knowing the specific woofer's specs and going off of a similar point of reference.

Here is the design pete sent me

 

[bottlefed1]

I was told by someone here it was a tapered T-line and it was tuned to 28hz let me know if thats correct. and if there is anything i can do to make it louder for tomorrow like moving it a certin way fliping it up or around.

 

[bottlefed1]

I think it sounds good but I dont have anything to base it off of other then its the best sounding box I have ever owned. The only issue I have with it is at higher volumes you hear more of the truck vibrating and roof flexing .You can hear it today and tell me what you think.

 

[bottlefed1]

He has one 15, no deaning, stock electrical, and two M1s or something. Going to be hard to shoot for that 150.

well i know that with my 3.5cube 15 box i am doing a 145 on music for 30secs in usaci streetbeat. good luck wi th yours though

I do have 2 DDm1b's straped at 1ohm stock electrical with no extra batteries and 1 run of 0/1 awg going to distro block and 4 gauge from there to the amps and I have no sound deadening at all. I'm using stock door speakers untill i can get a 4channel amp and another set of dd components.the headunit is an excelon 994, the sub is a dd9515h d2 and the box is a pwk design tapered t-line tuned low.
I did a 145.2 in testing yesterday at 17xxwatts but my rise was 6.2x ohm If i can get that lower to say 1-2ohm i should be close to 4k watts.
My qualifying run i did a 143.5 with 960 clamped watts. then I went head to head with a guy with a fi bl 12 and he did 140.x with 700 and something watts to my 141.1 with 537 watts. I didnt want to break out so i waited for him to put up a number then i went just a little higher and it worked out for me .

 

[bottlefed1]

I'm just looking at in theory. If I can get my impedance down and get more power my score will go up. I think my speaker wire is hurting that also so im going to start there. I do really need to get a battery and a ho alt seeing as I may be getting a different setup in the future

 

[bottlefed1]

with most enclosures you get 2 out of 3 characteristics
1) efficiency
2) bandwidth
3) small size
so to make a box you can pick 2 and go from there
your tline is loud and plays decently flat from 30-80, but it is on the larger side
if you make a burp box you could do small and efficient to only play right around your burp frequency so like the other guy said 3.5cf 6" aero
you could also look into other enclosures like horns, other tlines, or a bandpass but those will take a bit of knowledge on the design portion

well I should have more than enough space to work with. when you say efficient are you referring to low rise?